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Downshifing into 1st, doesn't want to go in.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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It's a 1982 GS1100E with about 30,000 miles on it and when downshifting, it doesn't want to go into first gear most of the time. It tends to go in a little easier when parked and in neutral. I don't have any problems with it popping out of any gears and other than downshifiting into 1st gear, it upshifts and downshifts really smoothly. I've tried loosening and tightening the clutch cable and it doesn't seem to make any difference.

Any thoughts? Worn out clutch plates maybe?
 
I don't think it's the plates if the clutch cable is adjusted. Could be shifting fork problem, shifting drum paw problem or maybe a problem with one of the gears or dogs. It might even be the mickey mouse shifting lever linkage needs adjusting.

I know this does'nt nail down the problem for you but check the easy stuff first.

So it upshifts ok the only problem is down shifting, right?

Jake
 
RacingJake said:
So it upshifts ok the only problem is down shifting, right?

Jake
Click to expand...

Yeah, the only problem is downshifting into 1st. You can feel the shifter fluttering when pushing down on it like the gears just aren't meshing.
 
Have you tried blipping the throttle before downshifting into 1st? You know, just after you pull in the clutch you give it a quick shot of throttle and then downshift?
Sometimes this helps in getting the gears shifting together.
 
If with the clutch lever pulled in, you feel the clutch "fluttering" then your clutch is not disengaging the engine. Put the bike on the centerstand, rar wheel in the air. Start it up, put it in 1st gear and see if the rear wheel spins.
If the rear wheel spins with enough force that you cannot stop it by scuffing a bare couple fingers on the tire tread in gear with the engine running, then you clutch is not correctly adjusted.

Earl
 
earlfor said:
If with the clutch lever pulled in, you feel the clutch "fluttering" then your clutch is not disengaging the engine. Put the bike on the centerstand, rar wheel in the air. Start it up, put it in 1st gear and see if the rear wheel spins.
If the rear wheel spins with enough force that you cannot stop it by scuffing a bare couple fingers on the tire tread in gear with the engine running, then you clutch is not correctly adjusted.

Earl
Click to expand...
Earl....
Or do you mean on the centre stand with the clutch in and in 1st gear?
 
I mean with the bike on the centerstand, running with the footshift lever in the 1st gear position but the clutch lever on the handlebar pulled all the way back to the handlebar. (bike is in 1st gear, but the clutch pulled into to disengage the engine from the transmission) If the clutch is disengaging perfectly, the rear wheel will be almost stopped. If the rear tire still turns with force you cannot stop with two fingers even though the clutch is pulled in to disengage, then the shifting problem is a clutch problem.

Earl


dwarf8 said:
Earl....
Or do you mean on the centre stand with the clutch in and in 1st gear?
Click to expand...
 
Bike on centrestand, running in first gear and clutch in...no problems stopping it with my fingers. What to check next?
 
OK, if the clutch is effective enough that you can stop the tire with fingers, it isnt a clutch sticking or clutch adjustment problem. Its a long shot, but I'll ask anyway. :-) Is your drivechain tight when the bike is sitting on both tires with you on it? The chain tightens when you sit on the bike. Its a common mistake to set chain tension with the bike on the centerstand and never check the change due to loading. Too tight a chain will adversely effect shifting.....makes it jerky and difficult. :-) Also, my 1150 has always been a little tempermental shifting down to 1st or into neutral. Changing to
Mobil 1 made a big difference. Additionally, it will go into 1st easier and smoother if you downshift to 1st before coming to a stop. I know a lot of guys bump down, get to about 2nd, brake to a stop, then bump 1st while stopped. My 1150 doesnt tolerate that. If do happen to stop in 2nd gear, I hold the clutch in, with my feet on the pavement and back the bike up about 6 inches. It will usually slip into 1st easily that way. Otherwise, it will frequently be locked out. I suspect my problem is a slightly worn shift fork, but I've learned to live with it. If it doest shift easily and smoothly, oftentimes a first response is to "stomp" the shifter harder. That is the worst thing to do as it will only make the problem worse and accelerate the wear. I would go with Mobil 1 and try shifting to 1st while still rolling or if stopped, back the bike a couple inches. Sometimes moving forward a couple inches is better, you will just have to experiment.

Of course, you could tear the transmission down and replace everything you think it might be, but I would try to modify my "technique" first.

Earl

CDNBandit said:
Bike on centrestand, running in first gear and clutch in...no problems stopping it with my fingers. What to check next?
Click to expand...
 
The oil has less than 1,000 miles on it. My problem is exactly what Earl described so I'll learn to adjust my shifting technique and maybe give the Mobil 1 a try. I use Mobil 1 in my Bandit but have been running Castrol 10w-40 or 20w-50 in the GS. I'm not into tearing down the bottom end for this.
 
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