duaneage Honda R/R Question

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Yes, the voltage will climb as the revs rise. Just know that corroded connections can cause the sense wire to read low and thus cause the r/r unit to push out more voltage than necessary, overcharging the battery. To check for loss, place your voltage meter between the r/r output and the battery (+) terminal. There should be less than .25v difference. The lower the better. If this voltage reading rises as the revs go up, you've still got some wiring connections to clean up.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[tom203]

As Basscliff said, your sense wire connection is lower than battery "sees"- best to clean up connections to keep battery happy- 15 volts is too high at idle, I bet at 4k rpm, your battery is dealing with 16 volts from the R/R.

 

[Legionnaire]

Hi,

Yes, the voltage will climb as the revs rise. Just know that corroded connections can cause the sense wire to read low and thus cause the r/r unit to push out more voltage than necessary, overcharging the battery. To check for loss, place your voltage meter between the r/r output and the battery (+) terminal. There should be less than .25v difference. The lower the better. If this voltage reading rises as the revs go up, you've still got some wiring connections to clean up.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

Okay I understand the volts go up and down according to revs, cause you had this really helpful piece on your site:

1.) key off................Normal 12.7 volts-12.9 volts

2.) key on (but not cranking with lights for 10 sec).....Normal 12.2-12.5 volts

3.) at idle (1500 rpm).....12.6volts - 13.2volts

4.) at 2500 rpm 13.5 -14.0 volts

5.) at 5000 rpm.....14.0 -15.0 volts

6.) key off.....slightly higher than measurements # 1 (12.8-13.0 v)

Where exactly do you mean when you say the R/R output I tested here, this is the orange wire:

It tested like .10 away from what the battery read with the bike off and on it tested this:

Please let me know if this is the right wire that you are speaking of and if so should I trace back this wire through the harness and inspect it or could it be a million other wires that might be corroded affecting this?

Thanks!!

 

[tom203]

Underneath this taping, how are these wires typically connected? You need really solid connections for charging system to work and last well.

 

[Legionnaire]

Underneath this taping, how are these wires typically connected? You need really solid connections for charging system to work and last well.

They are bullet connections right under the tape in the picture but the rest are spade connections.

Edit: Just wondering if I am testing the R/R output or the completely wrong wire thanks!

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Most r/r output wires are red. Find your r/r unit and trace the wire to where it connects into the harness. Replace all of the bullet connectors in your charging system.

For reference:
Regulator/Rectifier Replacement


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[tom203]

Hi,

Most r/r output wires are red. Find your r/r unit and trace the wire to where it connects into the harness. Replace all of the bullet connectors in your charging system

BassCliff

That pic is going to confuse him with two greens and two reds- he'll feel cheated!

To Legionnaire; It's best to heed Basscliff's cleanup the connections advice, but as a temporary check, you can connect the R/R sense wire direct to battery positive and see what your voltage outputs are at idle and at 4k rpm

 

[Legionnaire]

After all this I seem to be even more confused, so I just replaced my stock R/R with a Honda r/r all the connections are new. What I am most confused about is where you guys are telling me where to check for loss, cause in the photo above I put my positive lead on the battery and the negative on the sense wire and it was almost the same voltage and then I turned the bikes electrical on and it dropped to .8 does that mean anything or is that not the right stuff to test.

If someone could tell me exactly what to test that would be great because you guys are really helpful but the way you have things worded at the moment for some reason is over my head. Just tell me where to put my voltmeter and i will be a very gracious man thank you all so much!!!

Hi,

Most r/r output wires are red. Find your r/r unit and trace the wire to where it connects into the harness. Replace all of the bullet connectors in your charging system.

For reference:
Regulator/Rectifier Replacement


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[Legionnaire]

That pic is going to confuse him with two greens and two reds- he'll feel cheated!

To Legionnaire; It's best to heed Basscliff's cleanup the connections advice, but as a temporary check, you can connect the R/R sense wire direct to battery positive and see what your voltage outputs are at idle and at 4k rpm

This makes sense now haha so I'm basically skipping the orange wire and if my outputs are good than the orange wire is the culprit. Got it!!

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Check your wiring diagram. An orange wire is usually a switched 12v wire (powered when the key is on). In your picture I can't tell which wires are going where. As for the r/r and stator connectors, this is the standard diagram.

You want to check the voltage loss between the r/r output and the battery (+).


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[Legionnaire]

Hi,

Check your wiring diagram. An orange wire is usually a switched 12v wire (powered when the key is on). In your picture I can't tell which wires are going where. As for the r/r and stator connectors, this is the standard diagram.

You want to check the voltage loss between the r/r output and the battery (+).


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

Okay so I tested the voltage of the R/R output and the battery while the bike was off, idling, and at 5k. The left is the R/R output and the right is the battery.

Here is a picture of it off and they are close, only .10v away from eachother:



Here is a picture of the bike idling:



Here is a picture of the bike running at 5K:



Here is a video of the bike idling (a little high at 2k) and at 5k (I am really sorry the video is upside down)

http://s255.photobucket.com/user/iL...1-14099-000006B8250473DB_zps37e98fa5.mp4.html

Basically at idle it seems like they are about .4-.5v away and at 5K they are about .6v away, so could the corroded wire be anywhere on my harness or is there a good starting point of where to look cause all the immediate connections of the R/R to the battery/stator are new and tight. I just got a new stator and battery and all the connections were just put on.

 

[posplayr]

Okay so I tested the voltage of the R/R output and the battery while the bike was off, idling, and at 5k. The left is the R/R output and the right is the battery.

Here is a picture of it off and they are close, only .10v away from eachother:


Basically at idle it seems like they are about .4-.5v away and at 5K they are about .6v away, so could the corroded wire be anywhere on my harness or is there a good starting point of where to look cause all the immediate connections of the R/R to the battery/stator are new and tight. I just got a new stator and battery and all the connections were just put on.

Part of your issue is your are creating your own procedure without understanding the impact of the revised procedure


The original and revised Phase A of the stator pages specifies that you test the drops across the positive side and the negative side separately. That will tell you if you have ground issues or issues in the positive side of your connections.


If you have cleaned your connections and followed the recommendations of grounding then you likely don't have an issues on the ground side.

The positive side is a little more tricky as the fuse box usually gets corroded and there is also the hidden "T" in the harness.

See "GS CHARGING SYSTEM HEATH" in my signature for more details.

 

[Legionnaire]

Part of your issue is your are creating your own procedure without understanding the impact of the revised procedure


The original and revised Phase A of the stator pages specifies that you test the drops across the positive side and the negative side separately. That will tell you if you have ground issues or issues in the positive side of your connections.


If you have cleaned your connections and followed the recommendations of grounding then you likely don't have an issues on the ground side.

The positive side is a little more tricky as the fuse box usually gets corroded and there is also the hidden "T" in the harness.

See "GS CHARGING SYSTEM HEATH" in my signature for more details.

I thought I was doing the right thing so I definitely made my own procedure out out of ignorance.

For some reason every response in here has been over my head, sometimes I don't get things, but once I do I feel like a dummy for not realizing what I was doing.

I actually just checked it again and I revved up my bike and the voltage dropped to like 6v and 8v and 10v so I feel like even more is messed up now.

Either way I will review your electrical thread I really never came across that till now so if I take my time with it I am sure I can make sense of things!