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Dumb question - airbox connection to carbs?

  • Thread starter Thread starter exzachtly1
  • Start date Start date
Oh fine, bring that up. I neither admit nor deny anything.
Except the new airbox boots, coupled with the new intake boots, may, or may not, have made a world of difference. If I had done it. Perhaps.
 
Mounting the carbs tis an art form for sure. It takes longer to mount them back then setting your valves lol!! Best thing you can do is have new rubber boots and clamps.

One problem I ran into when I order all new boots were the rings that go inside the air box. The rings were a new part number and not split (solid ring all around) like the old ones. I must have tired for 2 hours to get them in and to no avail did I. I took the old ones and expanded them back out some where they fit tight back in, didn't take but a few minutes for those.
 
This is what i do on 81 750 you may have carb to engine boots on your model that part of this will not apply to as they bolt onto motor as mine do not.

When taking carbs on and off i do the airbox first with the two bolts holding airbox to frame off. then i start the two bolts back in but not all the way

The boots to engine intake i mark before i take them off with a paint marker with carb number and a line letting me know what is top center for each boot-carb.

I fit carbs in location and attach to airbox.

Then i will install the two inside boots (carb to motor) first coming in at the widest space between carb and intake with smallest part of boot getting the boot over each end and then twisting so mark is on top. Then same process with outside boots. Then finish tightening two small bolt on airbox to frame.

I have found this works best for me. Seeing as you already had dissembled you will not be able to mark your boots but with some twisting you should be able to find the sweet spot for a good carb level (alignment for airbox fit) also helps to have filter housing disconnected from airbox if not done already.

I hope this info helps.
 
Crankthat said:
This is what i do on 81 750 you may have carb to engine boots on your model that part of this will not apply to as they bolt onto motor as mine do not.

When taking carbs on and off i do the airbox first with the two bolts holding airbox to frame off. then i start the two bolts back in but not all the way

The boots to engine intake i mark before i take them off with a paint marker with carb number and a line letting me know what is top center for each boot-carb.

I fit carbs in location and attach to airbox.

Then i will install the two inside boots (carb to motor) first coming in at the widest space between carb and intake with smallest part of boot getting the boot over each end and then twisting so mark is on top. Then same process with outside boots. Then finish tightening two small bolt on airbox to frame.

I have found this works best for me. Seeing as you already had dissembled you will not be able to mark your boots but with some twisting you should be able to find the sweet spot for a good carb level (alignment for airbox fit) also helps to have filter housing disconnected from airbox if not done already.

I hope this info helps.
Click to expand...

Yup that is the way.
 
I had a similar problem when I replaced my airbox boots. I had them turned (rotated) wrong. There is a mark on the boot that has to go up (or down) - don't remember which. Maybe someone can tell you the exact orientation you need.
 
I think the first thing I will try is removing the filter box, so I can get in behind the airbox and push with something. That should definitely help seat the inner two.

I just want to get things connected if at all possible so I can ride for a bit before the weather goes cold. I don't want to have my bike out of commission for another week and half waiting on parts if I can help it!

After that, anything goes. I'll probably strongly consider replacing the boots and clamps over the winter. Maybe I won't have a choice and will have to do it now. I'll post back after I get some time to monkey around again...
 
exzachtly1 said:
Had a thought that maybe I'm going about it wrong, too. Maybe it would be better to disconnect the intake side and push the carbs into the airbox, rather than pushing the airbox into the carbs???
Click to expand...
No ,leave the carbs carefully connected to boots at intake manifold. Disconnect the air filter box and push it as far back as possible ( loosen fender bolts, loosen wires, etc. anything to get a 1/2 inch)
 
TOM203 has a 82 650 in signature so he would know best. Looks like set up on 550l from what i can see. Follow frame down on both sides of rear wheel the plastic part of rear fender should have a tab on each side that you can push in and past frame to get a little more room for sliding filter housing like tom said probably going to be wires maybe elect parts attached to filter housing and some bolts to take off. might only be a half inch but can guarantee that will make a difference in moving back and forth. I feel your pain as i remember the first time had carbs off a 550... And i thought the 750 was difficult.
 
Not to assume anything, are the plenum to carb boots rotated appropriately, if they aren't turned properly, they probably can't reasonably be attached.
Also, on my 650G, the plenum to air box connection has a lot of play, so loosen that clamp and push the plenum as far forward as you can when the boot clamps are loose.
 
Crankthat said:
TOM203 has a 82 650 in signature so he would know best. .
Click to expand...

Haha- never had to do it yet! my bike runs too good still (knock on wood! )- but I've done similar. PM member BigD83 in Vancouver, he's overly experienced in an actual 650 carb removal and reinstall.
 
WarmFZI said:
Not to assume anything, are the plenum to carb boots rotated appropriately, if they aren't turned properly, they probably can't reasonably be attached.
Also, on my 650G, the plenum to air box connection has a lot of play, so loosen that clamp and push the plenum as far forward as you can when the boot clamps are loose.
Click to expand...

OK - so they DO have to be rotated a certain way? :eek:

I thought that might be the case but couldn't figure out if there was some sort of marker on there to tell me how to rotate them. It is quite possible that these are not rotated correctly.
 
So I bucked up and took the airbox off again (I'm getting good at this now!) and the problem became painfully obvious. However - I can't tell if it's the boots or if the airbox itself is warped. It's probably both. Here are some pics:

2012-09-21_18-22-34_157.jpg


2012-09-21_18-27-26_611.jpg


2012-09-21_18-27-50_989.jpg


And the clamps - definitely worn but still workable i think:

2012-09-21_18-22-20_328.jpg


Any suggestions on where to go from here? I've heard you can boil the rubber components for a while in water to get them to soften up. But I don't know what to do about the airbox body. Do you guys think it looks warped? Should I attempt to heat it up and bend it? Kinda nervous to do that...
 
I decided to try this:

2012-09-21_20-00-27_622.jpg


Warmed up the plastic as much as I could with a hair dryer. Gonna let this set overnight and hope that it holds - it seemed to be holding decently when bending by hand. Now to figure out what to soak the boots in to make them nice and soft...
 
I didn't read the entire thread but know I had a similar issue earlier this year until I bought brand new clamps. No problems since.
 
Yeah I will probably buy new clamps and boots, just trying to un warp the airbox and get it rideable in the meantime. I wish there was a faster way to get oem parts! Seems to be about a week no matter where I order from.
 
Managed to bend the airbox back into shape (almost!) so that the 4 boots are nearly lined up. There is still some sage on boot #2 so it is not ALL the way on the carb body, but I don't think it looks to be leaking. I'd post a pic but it's raining cats and dogs right now :p
 
teedubya56 said:
I had a similar problem when I replaced my airbox boots. I had them turned (rotated) wrong. There is a mark on the boot that has to go up (or down) - don't remember which. Maybe someone can tell you the exact orientation you need.
Click to expand...

bwringer said:
Your airbox may be warped a bit. Are the inner boots ending up on the same plane as the outers, or is the plastic of the airbox sort of sagging in the middle?

On a certain GS1100E (hey, koolaid...!), we struggled with the airbox quite a while until I had the idea to use a piece of wood to push on the inside of the airbox in the middle in order to seat the inner clamps. The owner ended up ordering a new airbox from Suzuki to fix the problem more or less permanently.

However, I think it is possible that you could heat up a plastic airbox carefully with a heat gun and very very carefully and gently push it back into shape.

Also, new airbox boots will astonish you with the difference -- even if the old ones still seem flexible, they shrink by a surprising amount over the years. When you get the new ones, you may even be upset thinking that you got the wrong parts, because they're 1/3 larger than the old ones.

One last trick: if you find that one of your airbox boots folded over at the lip and warped, you can reshape it with a heat gun. I used an old bearing that happened to be the same diameter as the carb, but a piece of pipe or socket would work. I slowly heated the boot and worked it back into shape until I could clamp it onto the bearing. After it cooled, it was good as new.
Click to expand...

Both of these things were a factor. As you can see by the pics, I did what I could to get the box back into shape. I also made sure the markings lined up during reassembly. It is MUCH closer now but not perfect. I think in the next couple of weeks I will probably get new boots and a heat gun so I can properly re-shape the box and ensure quality boots.
 
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