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Dyna Ignition, no spark at all.

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1982 1100EZ. Dyna ignition. Factory coils.

It has been sitting awhile while I got the suspension sorted out. Fresh battery & plugs, no blown fuses. I cleaned all connections, and checked resistance across the coils' low tension connections, and they read 4.2 & 4.5. They fall within the proper range (3-5 ohms resistance). Any ideas? Are those readings close enough to conclude the coils are bad? I am new to electrical testing, so I really don't know where to start??

It also describes a HT lead test. Would this be placing one probe into the #1 plug cap, and the other into the #4 plug cap, and then again for the #2 & #3 plug caps?

HELP!!
 
Is the Dyna Ignition new to the bike? Did you double check the power connection for the Dyna -- i.e., the red wire?
 
Mike, the HT test is most likely the same as testing the secondary windings like everyone usually does. One lead in each cap on the same coil. I have seen mention of testing each lead from end to end for continuity but if you get resistance numbers doing the secondary windings then continuity is a given.
 
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That is what I was afraid of, Billy. @ MC: the Dyna was on the bike before I tore it down (had been for almost two years) and functioned perfectly.

Power lead is run into the old CDI harness as per instructions.

Running it straight to the battery wouldn't be acceptable, would it, given that the ignition switch is separate?? Wouldn't running the Dyna straight to the battery mean it's hot all the time?

Thanks for the replies, guys. I really get aggravated with electrical issues...I need to take some classes!!
 
Mike,
If you get resistance readings through the plug caps it doesn't mean anything is wrong, you want to see resistance. With aftermarket coils you'll probably get readings of 15k or more in resistance.
 
In addition to testing the primary coils (which you did), test the secondary coils. Like Billy said, you should see something in 15-25k range.

Which Dyna ignition is it? I'm assuming the Dyna S since those seem popular... If you go to the Dynatek website and check under Support, you can find info on how to test the Dyna system.
 
OK...had to attend a 50th Anniversary party for the parents of some friends. Just got done doing the High Tension check, and walked away confused. LT test showed borderline acceptable readings, but the HT test showed nothing. I set the ohm test @ 200, and the display read "1" when I switched it on. When connecting the leads to the plug caps, nothing changed for either coil. Book says factory coils should register 31-33 ohms in the HT resistance test.

How can it read good for one test, and bad for the next? The bike has been sitting for nearly two years, so I can see it having some electrical gremlins, but good grief....:(

I was hoping I was done spending money to get it up & running again....if I dump 120.00 on new coils and have the same issue, I'm not gonna be happy....

Oh...can I run the power supply straight to the battery? I wouldn't think I'd be able to, cause it wouldn't be switched power???
 
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Cassius086 said:
OK...had to attend a 50th Anniversary party for the parents of some friends. Just got done doing the High Tension check, and walked away confused. LT test showed borderline acceptable readings, but the HT test showed nothing. I set the ohm test @ 200, and the display read "1" when I switched it on. When connecting the leads to the plug caps, nothing changed for either coil. Book says factory coils should register 31-33 ohms in the HT resistance test.

How can it read good for one test, and bad for the next? The bike has been sitting for nearly two years, so I can see it having some electrical gremlins, but good grief....:(

I was hoping I was done spending money to get it up & running again....if I dump 120.00 on new coils and have the same issue, I'm not gonna be happy....

Oh...can I run the power supply straight to the battery? I wouldn't think I'd be able to, cause it wouldn't be switched power???
Click to expand...
Mike, if you have your stock coils lying around maybe give them a try. I might have some old ones around here I can send you if not. If I do and you want to give them a try they're yours.
 
Thanks, Billy! The bike has the original factory coils. I'll do some more digging today, and I'll probably take you up on that offer. Thanks a ton!!
 
Aren't you looking for resistance in the thousands? Which means your meter should be set in the thousands. Probably 20,000. Below that and it might read something like 1 or OL (overload). Also, the coils have to be disconnected to test. Not removed, just disconnected. Dynatek has a test procedure to determine if the unit is bad. Check their website. I have it on paper but can't get to it right now. I'll find it and post it if you can't find it online.
 
It registers "1" no matter the ohm setting I select...I appreciate all the help, guys. Keep it coming.

Billy, I'll PM you my info. I think I'll take you up on that offer.
 
Mike if I was you I would remove the plug caps from the HT leads for the coils then remove 1/4" of insulation from the end of each wire so I had good wire showing and clip the ohm meter onto those wires. This eliminates the plug caps that can give problems. If it tests OK like that then just replace the plug caps and all will be OK.

Set your ohm meter on it's highest setting and retest. Make sure you have it on ohms and not amps, volts, etc. Some of these meters can be confusing. My favourite meter has 12 different buttons on it to select settings and occasionally I get it wrong.
 
I'll do that, Don. I also noticed that the base of the spark plug boots for #2 & #3 plugs are badly split. So new boots are in order as well.

However, I have other issues. I measured voltage @ the coil leads w/ key on...

1.7 volts @ each coil.
Voltage @ ignition switch is 10.7 volts.

So the drop or issue is within the dyna S??
 
Mike, you need to fit the NGK spark plug caps. They are the best and they will not crack. See below the plug caps on my bike. But they are for 12mm plugs so don't take the part numbers off them to order some for yourself if you have 14mm spark plugs.

P1030320.jpg



.
 
Mike you should also have 12v or close to that at the coils and the red wire than goes to the DYNA S.

If not then you need to find out where the voltage drop is occurring at. Maybe corroded, wet connections if the bike has stood for a couple of years as indicated earlier.
 
Checked voltage at the hot wire for the Dyna...just over 7V. Replaced the wire with a new one, new connection as well. Still the same voltage. So there is an issue deep in the wiring harness, I geuss. Yeehah fun.
 
Cassius086 said:
Checked voltage at the hot wire for the Dyna...just over 7V. Replaced the wire with a new one, new connection as well. Still the same voltage. So there is an issue deep in the wiring harness, I geuss. Yeehah fun.
Click to expand...

Mike the feed to the hot wire to the Dyna S and coils goes through the ign switch and the kill switch and maybe through the clutch lever and side stand switch if your bike has those. If these switches are dirty, corroded, damp, etc. that will cause a voltage drop.

You can trace these parts out and clean them up with fine emery paper if you can get them apart, otherwise squirt contact cleaner in and around each switch and work the switch on and off a few dozen times to help clean it up in side.

If that doesn't work for you and you still have 7v at the Dyna S hot wire, then you will need to do the coil relay upgrade to get a good 12v to the coils and Dyna. And only use the orange/white wire coming from the igniter to trigger the relay when the ign switch is turned on.

The problem is unlikely to be in the wiring harness, as in the actual wires themselves, it is most likely in the switches and bits hanging off the ends of the wires.

Good luck.
 
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Right hand switch assembly is brand new. Clutch safety switch bypassed. Will clean the side stand switch. I did find another switched 12V source (rear brake light) with a full 12V when the power is on. Would tapping into this for the power for the Dyna be acceptable?

As for the relay set up, Jim (posplyr) used the aux connections @ the fuse panel to power the relay, if I'm reading his diagrams right (on BassCliff's site).

Again...Don, and everybody-thanks for all the help!!
 
Just do a relay mod to the entire ignition tapping into the O/W wire after the kill switch headed to the coils.
 
So wired as you suggest, this relay would power the Dyna & the coils, too? How exactly would I need to wire this relay? Would it be a 4 pin automotive relay? 2 pin? I know nothing about relays...:confused:
 
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