Dynojet Kits for 1150's and Buzzing Handle bar

[mike J]

Just completed my second weekend of riding the 1150. The bike has a pipe, filters and a Dynojet kit in it. The bike cranks and runs very well. I thought the jetting was very close initally. I rode up a mountain road today and under a hard load going up the hills the bike started spitting. I pulled the plugs out when I got back and they were rich. The bike has the 138 mains in it like Dynojet says but it seems like it's too rich in the mid range. I did some roll on's with the bike in 5th from about 40 mph. The bike would spit and miss till the revs got up then it pulled very well. Has anyone got any experience with the Dyno Jets kits? Also, maybe it was just me I noticed it last week but just thought it was because I hadn't ridden in a while, but the right side handle bar vibrated My right hand would get numb but the left never had a problem, seems kinda weird to me. Thanks, I would like to hear from others experience. Mike-

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Re: Dynojet Kits for 1150's and Buzzing Handle bar

Just completed my second weekend of riding the 1150. The bike has a pipe, filters and a Dynojet kit in it. The bike cranks and runs very well. I thought the jetting was very close initally. I rode up a mountain road today and under a hard load going up the hills the bike started spitting. I pulled the plugs out when I got back and they were rich. The bike has the 138 mains in it like Dynojet says but it seems like it's too rich in the mid range. I did some roll on's with the bike in 5th from about 40 mph. The bike would spit and miss till the revs got up then it pulled very well. Has anyone got any experience with the Dyno Jets kits? Also, maybe it was just me I noticed it last week but just thought it was because I hadn't ridden in a while, but the right side handle bar vibrated My right hand would get numb but the left never had a problem, seems kinda weird to me. Thanks, I would like to hear from others experience. Mike-

I interpret "spitting" (as in spitting randomly out the carbs) as a lean condition, but maybe you use the word to describe something different? If most of your riding was at 1/4 to 3/4 throttle positions and your plugs are too dark, then your plug reads reflect your needle circuit being rich. I would lower the needles 1 position and re-test.
As for the vibrations, re-torque every bolt on the bike and see if that helps. It may be that we grip the throttle tighter than we think and the blood circulation is poor to the hand. If you let go and lower your hand for about 15-20 seconds and it gets much better, then that's probably a sign of poor circulation.

 

[Dink]

1150's are VERY sensitive to carb synchronisation, perfect is near enough, anything else will cause vibration, loosen all engine mount bolts and re-torque to Suzuki specs, check the condition of the rubbers in the front engine mounts. All these things will help BUT some 1150's are good some are reasonable and some are horrid when it comes to vibration.
Dink

 

[mike J]

Keith, I'm almost 100% sure the carbs are rich on the middle. Hard to quit put into words what the bike does, it skips so bad under the above mentioned conditions. I never noticed it the in preivous weeks riding. I didn't install the jet kit but the mains are correct to DynoJets specs and the mixture screw caps were removed and set to their specs as well. From past experience I know that rich and lean conditions can be hard to tell the difference from. Initally I would have guessed the bike as too lean in the middle but after about 250 miles on the plugs I'd have to say too rich. Just curious if anyone else had any experience with these kits.

 

[pano]

I have the stage 3 dynojet and a pipe/pods on my bike as well. Just last week on my ride to NH when charging up a mountain road (higher altitude) in 5th gear at full throttle my bike didn't spit but was not pulling as it normally does...I actually thought my clutch was slipping. I have concluded that because of the higher altitude my bike began to run a little too rich. I had increased the mains bigger than the dyno kit and my bike runs a tad on the rich side anyway I have been too lazy or had not the time to switch back to the dynoket mains.

I had passed Rassimoore (spelling) up this road and later he told me his bike had lost power as well.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

There's a good chance that after 250 miles, your plugs are building up a carbon/soot layer and the spark is weakening. That could be why you didn't notice a problem initially.
You don't mention what position the jet needles are set. The Dynojet kit should include adjustable jet needles. Too rich a setting will cause missing because the plugs are not able to fire the rich mixture correctly. You should lower the needles 1 position and re-test. The jet needle controls fuel mixture "in the middle" as you say. As Dink suggested, a good carb synch should also be done.

 

[earlfor]

Re: Dynojet Kits for 1150's and Buzzing Handle bar

I think the two things are related. My 1150 at 40 mph in 5th gear is just under 2000 rpm. Rolling on the throttle at that rpm in 5th is going to lug the devil out of the engine. I wouldnt expect it to pull well. Mine doesnt miss or spit at that rpm, but it wouldnt pull a bag of chickenfeathers downhill either. You have vibration in your right hand and not your left because the carb synch is unbalanced. One of my fine tuning checks after a carb synch is to road test the bike at a steady 75 mph and compare the image between the right and left mirrors. You will see the carb synch imbalance beyond the point you can feel it in your hands. In other words, synch your carbs until your mirror images are balanced. It isnt right until the fat lady sings. 1150's are fussy about setup.

Earl

I did some roll on's with the bike in 5th from about 40 mph. The bike would spit and miss till the revs got up then it pulled very well.


Also, maybe it was just me I noticed it last week but just thought it was because I hadn't ridden in a while, but the right side handle bar vibrated My right hand would get numb but the left never had a problem, seems kinda weird to me. Thanks, I would like to hear from others experience. Mike-

 

[Dink]

Re: Dynojet Kits for 1150's and Buzzing Handle bar

My 1150 at 40 mph in 5th gear is just under 2000 rpm. Rolling on the throttle at that rpm in 5th is going to lug the devil out of the engine.

Earl

My 1150 will happily wind down to 1200rpm in top,and willwing away from there with just the merest hint of rattle from the clutch until 1500rpm, mine is entirely stock.
Dink

 

[mike J]

I think the two things are related. My 1150 at 40 mph in 5th gear is just under 2000 rpm. Rolling on the throttle at that rpm in 5th is going to lug the devil out of the engine. I wouldnt expect it to pull well. Mine doesnt miss or spit at that rpm, but it wouldnt pull a bag of chickenfeathers downhill either. You have vibration in your right hand and not your left because the carb synch is unbalanced. One of my fine tuning checks after a carb synch is to road test the bike at a steady 75 mph and compare the image between the right and left mirrors. You will see the carb synch imbalance beyond the point you can feel it in your hands. In other words, synch your carbs until your mirror images are balanced. It isnt right until the fat lady sings. 1150's are fussy about setup.

Earl


Earl, Interesting theory. That what these message board are good for a different prespective on things. So what's the best carb sync gauge out there? Where do I get one and what do they cost? Mike J (with poor circulation

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Motion Pro makes a simple but good vacuum tool for $40. Available everywhere.

 

[mike J]

Thanks Keith for the heads up. I did a search and came up with a product from England for Morgan Carbtune Gauges, anyone ever used these before? Comments? Thanks, Mike

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I haven't used the Morgan carb tune but I hear it does the job.
I think JoJo did a write up on it in the "Products Review" section.

 

[Anonymous]

I did a search and came up with a product from England for Morgan Carbtune Gauges, anyone ever used these before?

No personal experience, but I know several people who have them. They are the cat's a** for synch'ing carbs, easy to use and very accurate. Also expensive...In this case you get what you pay for, though.

Mark

 

[Anonymous]

Poor Circulation - or is it Mr. CTS?

Poor Circulation - or is it Mr. CTS?

Just a comment. Poor circulation can be an issue.

Another is Carpal Tunnel Syndrome. I noticed a few years back after heavy work on house, my hands would fall asleep. Seemed like circulation and hanging my hand relieved sensation.

Well when you grip on bars in this wrist position, the flexor tendons in the hand press on the nerves passing through the wrist's carpal tunnel. Pressing on the nerves puts the hand asleep. Relieving the pressure, and feeling comes back again.

I finally got some throttle-meister bar ends - big heavy stainless steel type - MUCH beefier than the pseudo-aluminum ones for sale.

Bars stopped vibrating (dead quiet) - hands never fell asleep...since vibration seems to add to irritation of the nerves in the wrist.

Just another look.......

 

[earlfor]

I have both the Motion Pro and the Morgan Carbtune II. They are equally easy to use. The fittings and dampening and overall quality of the Morgan is MUCH higher. Also, replacement parts for the Morgan are available as is a rebuild service for the instrument from Sean Morgan. (a super nice guy by the way) The Motion Pro uses mercury, which is a substance that can be a health hazard. The Morgan uses balanced steel rods instead of mercury.
I prefer the Morgan. I probably would not have bought the Morgan if I did not do a many carb synchs as I do, as it is about 3-4 times the cost of the Motion Pro. Either instrument is as good as the guy using it.

Earl

Thanks Keith for the heads up. I did a search and came up with a product from England for Morgan Carbtune Gauges, anyone ever used these before? Comments? Thanks, Mike

 

[earlfor]

Re: Poor Circulation - or is it Mr. CTS?

Re: Poor Circulation - or is it Mr. CTS?

The throttle return spring on my 1150 is light enough that closing my hand around the throttle grip is not necessary once at cruise speed. On the highway, I commonly ride with my hands open and fingers draped across the clutch and brake levers.

Earl

Well when you grip on bars in this wrist position, the flexor tendons in the hand press on the nerves passing through the wrist's carpal tunnel. Pressing on the nerves puts the hand asleep. Relieving the pressure, and feeling comes back again.

 

[mike J]

Ok, I've about worn out the screws on the stock carburators taking them apart. Whom ever installed the jetkit (Dynojet Stg III) put the needles in wrong according to the instructions. So I put them back as they should thinking my problem is solved, now the bike runs horrible. I have moved the needles so many times I'm inclined to believe that either the wrong jet kit was installed (not for an 1150) or the wrong needles came in the kit. I measured the length of the Dynojet needle and it comes out to 2.100". My feeeling is the needle should be longer than this. When you restack the needles with the plastic washer on top the bike runs closer to what it should. When you put the washer below the needle clip (Like it should be) the plug foul almost instantly. Can anyone measure the length of one of the needles and tell me is this the problem or is something else going on? The bike runs too good(when you shim the needles wrong) for it to have any major problems MIke J

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I'm not sure about your carbs, but my GS1000 with VM carbs has a thick plastic spacer on top of the e-clip and a thinner plastic spacer under the clip. I think your CV carbs don't have the thinner spacer under the clip, but THEY DO have a thick plastic spacer on top.
Placing this spacer under the clip would greatly richen the mixture and the plugs would foul.

 

[mike J]

Keith, on my CV carbs I "assume" I am putting them together right but I could be wrong. I have the spring in first, followed by the plastic spacer then the needle with the "E" clip , then the top plastic holder. The thing I've noticed the top plastic has a small "tit" molded on it. This so called tit fits in the opening of the "E" clip in the needle. It looks like it has to go this way because nothing else works. If you change the spacer arraingnment the spring can almost slide over the E clip on the needle. Granted, these are the first carbs I've seen where the spring appears to go under the needle. The bike runs closer to what it should with the spacer what appears to be out of place but the parts don't fit correctly this way. I also ordered a Morgan car sync gauge so I hope I can put all my problems behine me this week. Mike

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

It does sound confusing. I don't have your kind of carbs here so I can't take a look. I do know the DJ kit should retain the original parts and the order they are installed. If you can't find a clear diagram, I would post a new topic here asking for this specific info. Many 1150 owners here (Earl, Dink...), so someone has to know.