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ebay Rect./Reg.

  • Thread starter Thread starter dale schafer
  • Start date Start date
D

dale schafer

Guest
Just a note of caution. I have bought 3 R/R on ebay, all three have been bad. All were said to have checked OK. One fellow said he must have got them mixed up and sent my money back. One said it was off a running bike so he knew it was good! ( BS) Told me to shove it as he was through selling on ebay anyway. The third S/H 232-12 was from a Honda goldwing, and I have not heard back. These were all checked by a Honda dealer, The last one I had double checked by another dealer( still bad). From now on I will buy new as there are to many liars on ebay. I have over 500 positive sales myself, so things are changing on ebay. this is not a lot of money just a lot of shipping and messing around. Dale
 
I have bought several honda reg on ebay Never had a problem. Have you checked your stator?? How are you connecting it ???
 
I think I stated that it was checked and failed by the Honda dealer after it failed the tests that are on THIS web site. Then it was taken to another Honda dealership and it still failed. It was never installed. Just tested with the tests in "The GS resources" and then the 1st one with one dealer. the second and third ,I took to another dealer in case I was being set up. Dale
 
dale,

I bought a Honda R/R on eBay, but didn't install it since I was able to get my original setup working properly after some rewiring and cleanup. Your post concerned me as I hadn't installed the eBay part but thought that it was probably good. After checking the part, it does test good. :)

You may have had extraordinarily bad luck, or some dishonesty involved, or both. On the other hand, these units are best tested installed, since even if they pass the disconnected tests they may still be defective. The other problem with the R/R disconnected tests is that it is easy for someone to make a mistake in conducting the tests, especially if they are not used to electrical test equipment and/or misread the correct wires to test.

In your case, if you used the instructions on this site for a disconnected test of a R/R, keep in mind the color codes are for Suzuki. Specifically, where the Suzuki instructions refer to the black/white negative output wire, this test would have to be performed on the green wire of a Honda R/R.

The six diodes in the disconnected R/R are the only components that can be tested. How many diodes failed the test? If all failed, I suspect that the test is not being performed properly. As far as being tested by the Honda dealership(s), they may know what they are doing (or not). Plus, keep in mind that they are in business to sell new parts, not test eBay replacements.

If you have a good digital tester with a diode test function, I would give it one more whirl before admitting defeat. This is a link to ElectroSport's Fault Finding Chart, being a PDF file with troubleshooting information. It is very similar to the charts on this site, but it explains the wiring color differences between Honda, Suzuki, and Yamaha. I found it more useful to use this chart when troubleshooting a Honda R/R.
 
R/R

R/R

Thank you Boondocks, I will answer you questions in individual posts. I used the removed test of the Honda S/H 232-12 R/R as the motorcycle is in Wisconsin and I am in N.M. I was trying to make my 1977 GS 550 electrical system bullet proof as I am taking it to Canada next summer. There are no parts readily available up there. I read where the electrical system is weak and thought I would take a extra stator and R/R up there with me. I have tested the stator that I bought and it tests OK. The first failed test that I had was backed up by the one Honda dealer. The second R/R I got did not test and was tested by the Honda dealership and a automotive shop that is run buy a real sauve guy from the electronics field. It failed both places. It maybe as you said that the non- connected test is not very reliable, but the auto shop man drew me a schematic of how the R/R worked and why. He specializes in electrical problems the car dealer's can not fix. The last 232-12 that I got did not pass the test and then this PM went to 2 Honda dealers and both checked it and said it was no good.
Monday I will go back to my friend at the auto shop. I did hear from the last fellow and he said return it for a refund. He said he had no way of checking it, and the bike was running when he parted it out. I gave him this web site to print out the procedure for testing off the bike. I hope that this one will work at the auto shop as he will let me watchthe test and results. dale
 
R/R

R/R

Boondocks, I also wanted to say that color coding on wires should not come into play as it is not connected yet. I looked at the site you recommended, put it in favorites and will copy it to use on my bike when I get up there. I wonder if I am overly concerned about the electrical system. It has 12k miles on it, but the battery had no water in it after I drove it home in Wisc.(80 mi), so I assumed that the R/R was bad. I put a new battery in it and drove it for about a week. I had no trouble with it. It is possible that the water was just charged out of it, as I called the guy I bought it from( an elderly man,I am 70 ) and he said he forgot to check the battery as the charger was on it and it started. I took the battery out of it and brought it home to N.M. I will keep you posted, I appreciate you insight. This is the first bike I have owned since I sold my 1970 Kaw H-1 10 years ago. My 1st bike was a 1948 Checz 125cc, then a 1950 english James with a 198cc Villers engine, then a 1951 Indian Warrior 500cc, then sold it and off to college. more later dale
 
Old style "trickle chargers" are famous for ruining batteries if they are left connected too long. If the charging voltage is too high it can cause the battery to gas excessively and boil off the electrolyte. Maybe you'll get lucky and find that the electrics don't need replacing. It's pretty easy to check this out by just following the instructions to check the battery voltage as specified in the fault finding page (higher than 13.5 volts at 2,500 RPM and lower than 14.8 volts at 5,000 RPM.

My first bike was a 1948 James with a 125cc Villiers engine. :lol:
 
Re: ebay Rect./Reg.

dale schafer said:
Just a note of caution. I have bought 3 R/R on ebay, all three have been bad.

SNIP

I have over 500 positive sales myself, so things are changing on ebay. this is not a lot of money just a lot of shipping and messing around. Dale
Click to expand...

I can't believe that someone would try to sell junk on FleaBay! I like the "well it was on a running bike so it must be OK" explanation. Buyer beware.
 
R/R

R/R

Boondocks, Did your James 125cc have a foot shift or a lever on he handle bars that you shifted with your thumb? My friend had a 98cc James that had the thumb shift. I'll bet the the younger people on this post wonder what in the world we are talking about. Thanks for the up date. I think I will take a new R/R up there with me. Dale
 
dale,

The 125cc James came with a 3-speed transmission with a hand operated shifter originally mounted on the right side of the tank. We kids quickly learned the hot trick of dissasembling the linkage and rerouting it to pivot from the right footpeg. After bending a tab at the end of the linkage to contact the toe, we had an improvised footshift that operated in an arc instead of returning to the same position.

Nevertheless, a practiced toe could find all of the gears and even speedshift without any difficulty. Our method of doing a high speed run on those bikes was to "lay out" flat, with feet off the pegs and routed over the top of the rear fender, one hand on the throttle and the other hand tucked in to the chest to cut down on wind resistance. Of course this would be on city streets. Nobody wore helmets in those days, and I am one of the survivors. :lol:

I forgot to mention, I also had a 500cc vertical twin Indian Warrior (a story in itself), which was my next bike after the James. :)
 
R/R

R/R

Boondocks, Have you seen them on ebay(Warriors)? wow! I wish I had taken care of mine. I guess you know about a oil smoking right pipe( they all did it when run hard) and then all the time when they were wore out. Also the generator drive would brake when you dropped the clutch hard in a drag race. T.J., The owner of the Indian motor cycle shop even turned down a housing of a larger generator to stop shaft breakage. Then I slung the solder out of the generator. I got a runner up trophy( I still have it) from the truck bypass drag Strip. I was beaten by Dr. Bass's Cadilliac powered Allard. (Flagman starter and stop watch timers.) I did the same on my Warrior in a drag race except I put my left hand on the left fork just below the triple tree( elbow tucked in. Ah those were the days. Dale PS Somewhere I still have a picture of that darn Allard. If you are interested I can scan the picture of the James and send it to you. The 50th class reunion lost my only picture of me on my beloved Warrior.D/
 
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