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Electrical Harness Compatability?

  • Thread starter Thread starter stiksave
  • Start date Start date
S

stiksave

Guest
Is the main harness from 82 gs1100E a good swap for an 83? Will the 82 replace the bad 83?

Thanks,
Stiksave
 
I'm bumping this thread to re-introduce myself. Almost 3 years ago I swapped out my main electrical harness successfully. I then became intrigued with upgrading the rectifier/regulator, which I did and smoked my new old harness. I took on a new job that took over my life, and the bike sat for almost 3 years collecting dust. I kicked the job to the curb recently and jumped back into repairing my fubar. I bought a very clean donor harness off e-bay and a newer reg/rectifier off of a newer Goldwing. I took four days of squinting at the electrical diagram and rewired the bike with the new Goldwing part and the harness. The project went well. The electrics are in new condition with upgrades, Silverstar H4st lamp, and an AGM battery. Another week of primping and tuning, should be back on the road.
 
stiksave said:
I'm bumping this thread to re-introduce myself. Almost 3 years ago I swapped out my main electrical harness successfully. I then became intrigued with upgrading the rectifier/regulator, which I did and smoked my new old harness. I took on a new job that took over my life, and the bike sat for almost 3 years collecting dust. I kicked the job to the curb recently and jumped back into repairing my fubar. I bought a very clean donor harness off e-bay and a newer reg/rectifier off of a newer Goldwing. I took four days of squinting at the electrical diagram and rewired the bike with the new Goldwing part and the harness. The project went well. The electrics are in new condition with upgrades, Silverstar H4st lamp, and an AGM battery. Another week of primping and tuning, should be back on the road.
Click to expand...

Congratulations fubar
 
stiksave said:
Here's the R&R install.
Click to expand...

Looks good but I'm looking at that single ground wire and wondering about how did your voltages check out after the install? Especially the plus and negative voltage drops between R/R and Battery (see revised stator pages Phase A)?
 
posplayr said:
Looks good but I'm looking at that single ground wire and wondering about how did your voltages check out after the install? Especially the plus and negative voltage drops between R/R and Battery (see revised stator pages Phase A)?
Click to expand...

Ran your quick test.
1) key off-12.6
2) key on-12.2
3) at idle-13.0
4) at 2500-13.1
5) at 5000-13.1
6) key off-12.9
 
stiksave said:
Ran your quick test.
1) key off-12.6
2) key on-12.2
3) at idle-13.0
4) at 2500-13.1
5) at 5000-13.1
6) key off-12.9
Click to expand...



Quick Test Steps:

1.) key off................Normal 12.7 volts-12.9 volts

2.) key on (but not cranking with lights for 10 sec).....Normal 12.2-12.5 volts

3.) at idle (1500 rpm).....12.6volts - 13.2volts

4.) at 2500 rpm 13.5 -14.0 volts

5.) at 5000 rpm.....14.0 -15.0 volts

6.) key off.....slightly higher than measurements # 1 (12.8-13.0 v)
Click to expand...

Quick test is not a substitute for the Stator pages, it is mainly a quick sanity check to see which way to head.

You are obviously charging and battery is good but I suspect you have some bad connections which explains why you only charge at 13V. Do the revised Phase A tests


http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/3970459/stator-papers-phase-a-pdf-may-13-2012-10-43-am-55k?da=y
 
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Rewired stator directly into R/R, conected R/R + - to battery. All seems good and healthy. Now on to the leaky valve cover gasket.
 
Passed revised sator papers phase A tests nicely. Thanks for the input.
 
stiksave said:
Ran your quick test.
1) key off-12.6
2) key on-12.2
3) at idle-13.0
4) at 2500-13.1
5) at 5000-13.1
6) key off-12.9
Click to expand...


You have problems. You should be over 14.0V at 4) and 5)

You are apparently charging but barely.

From GS Charging health.

You are probably going to find excessive voltage drops (that R/R connector will likely need to go)

Link to Revised PHASE A of Stator Pages:
http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/3970459/stator-papers-phase-a-pdf-may-13-2012-10-43-am-55k?da=y
ORIGINAL_STATOR_PAGES

The most important thing to do checks at 5000 RPM which is typical cruising speed. You might find that you will need to clean your fuse box to get the positive side voltage drops below 0.2V at 5000 RPM. In steps #1 above you should of gotten most of the connections between the R/R(+) to battery (+) in good shape except the fuse box.
Click to expand...
 
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Posplayr, the quick test was done before I ran the r/r directly to the battery. Did that after you suggested to do that. I ran the stator phase A today, drops on + - were less then 0.17, voltage at the battery @ 2500 rpm is 14.18v, 14.30v @ 5000 rpm. So according to the test data, it's good. Also passed NYS inspection today. Thanks.
 
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stiksave said:
Posplayr, the quick test was done before I ran the r/r directly to the battery. Did that after you suggested to do that. I ran the stator phase A today, drops on + - were less then 0.17, voltage at the battery @ 2500 rpm is 14.18v, 14.30v @ 5000 rpm. So according to the test data, it's good. Also passed NYS inspection today. Thanks.
Click to expand...

OK those are good numbers. :D

There are many people that come on saying they checked everything and changed all connections but you never know especially when they don't say what their results were. I guess it is only natural but those people that end up here usually don't know how to run a volt meter either.

The Quick tests as described is a sanity tests for a quick looks or when unusual results are encountered. :rolleyes:

With 14 amps coming from the R/R it only takes 0.1 ohms (total on either the positive side or negative side) to drop 1.4V so there is essentially no way to measure this unless you actually do the tests described.
 
Well, IMHO, if someone who knows something that you don't, tells you what to do, and asks that you feedback the information requested to ensure that you understand the instructions, you just do it. Everyone learns from the info. Whether it's the results of the phase A test, or you read the procedures and figure out how to use a voltage meter, everyone learns because it's on a forum. I started this thread a few years ago, so it continues to be a ready reference for my bike. So thanks again.

I used the plug off my battery buddy connector to make all of the battery test points. The positive post on the battery is under the tank on the 1100, so it's a bit awkward to make sure that you have contact and then reach the throttle. The connector made for better access.
 
stiksave said:
Well, IMHO, if someone who knows something that you don't, tells you what to do, and asks that you feedback the information requested to ensure that you understand the instructions, you just do it. Everyone learns from the info. Whether it's the results of the phase A test, or you read the procedures and figure out how to use a voltage meter, everyone learns because it's on a forum. I started this thread a few years ago, so it continues to be a ready reference for my bike. So thanks again.

I used the plug off my battery buddy connector to make all of the battery test points. The positive post on the battery is under the tank on the 1100, so it's a bit awkward to make sure that you have contact and then reach the throttle. The connector made for better access.
Click to expand...

Well done.


I kinda hate to ask at this point. Any idea what kind of R/R that is off of a Gull wing? It is large. Is it SHUNT, FET SHUNT or SERIES (those are the primary kinds). I think I can make out that it is a 5 wire unit.
 
It is a 5 wire unit. I bought it off of e-bay a couple of years back, so I don't remember the id. I have to change my valve cover gasket and adjust the valves, when I get to it I'll pull the r/r and get a part #. I know I bought it because of the 5 wire config as seen in BikeCliff's install instructions. The attempt that I screwed up was a 6 wire unit. That bad install cost me an r/r and main harness. Anywho, it's all good now. I have a brand new oem harness for a 1983 1100E that I didn't use that I have to sell, maybe here or e-bay.
 
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