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Electrical Issues - A Couple of Questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter glstine
  • Start date Start date
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glstine

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So I finally got the 80GS550 engine back together, put some gas in the carbs, installed the battery, turn on the ignition, pull in the clutch, hit the start button and.......nothing. Put a screw driver across the solenoid posts..... nothing. I checked the voltage across the battery terminals 12.7V. Checked it across the cable connectors right at the terminals, 0V. Sanded off the cable connectors to shiny metal and reconnected the cables now I have 12+V across the connectors, so all good there (I should add that I was stunned that a little bit of build up on the connectors would completely wipe out conductance). Checked voltage at the solenoid and it was good as well.

So I try again hit the start button and nothing. Put the screwdriver to the solenoid again and it cranks but shows no indication of trying to start. Test for spark and there was none so I figure I've got some electrical issues to figure out. Figured I would start with the start button since it is easier to hit the start button than using the screwdriver. I sanded down the contact surfaces on the button and nothing happened. So I measured the voltage at the kill switch and it was around 0.75V. Now I don't see anything in my manual that tells me what this voltage should be but I'm thinking it should be 12V.

I should also add I measured voltage accross the battery and the crankcase and got 12+V, so that should indicated the ground connection there is good, right?

So I go looking at the wiring schematic and the wires on the bike (man there are alot of them) and begin to feel a little overwhelmed. So my questions are, where should I start? And, what is the best way to actually clean the connections? Thanks in advance.
 
Last edited:
If you put a screw driver across the solenoid posts and the solenoid is wired correctly then your starter is not getting current, either the starter is dirty or the solenoid is no good.

Check your connections and make sure all bullet connector are cleaned and tight.

Check to see with a test light that you have voltage to the swicth and from the switch to the solenoid trigger circuit ( the thinner wires on the solenoid ).
 
Pull you headlight bucket apart and check all the connections. I had a similar problem and the wire connections coming from the kill switch were loose and arcing. Reconnected, no further problems.

Good luck! JOhn
 
glstine said:
So I finally got the 80GS550 engine back together, put some gas in the carbs, installed the battery, turn on the ignition, pull in the clutch, hit the start button and.......nothing. Put a screw driver across the solenoid posts..... nothing. I checked the voltage across the battery terminals 12.7V. Checked it across the cable connectors right at the terminals, 0V. Sanded off the cable connectors to shiny metal and reconnected the cables now I have 12+V across the connectors, so all good there (I should add that I was stunned that a little bit of build up on the connectors would completely wipe out conductance). Checked voltage at the solenoid and it was good as well.

So I try again hit the start button and nothing. Put the screwdriver to the solenoid again and it cranks but shows no indication of trying to start. Test for spark and there was none so I figure I've got some electrical issues to figure out. Figured I would start with the start button since it is easier to hit the start button than using the screwdriver. I sanded down the contact surfaces on the button and nothing happened. So I measured the voltage at the kill switch and it was around 0.75V. Now I don't see anything in my manual that tells me what this voltage should be but I'm thinking it should be 12V.

I should also add I measured voltage accross the battery and the crankcase and got 12+V, so that should indicated the ground connection there is good, right?

So I go looking at the wiring schematic and the wires on the bike (man there are alot of them) and begin to feel a little overwhelmed. So my questions are, where should I start? And, what is the best way to actually clean the connections? Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

To have your engine running is mandatory to have the appropriate fuel mixture and good working ignition system, so, following this;
Make the following tests:
First; Check your battery and cables voltage
Second; With your circuit tester, check that your starter button completes a circuit.
Third; Check electrical components plate ground connection, if you don't have a good ground connection install a cable directly to your battery negative post.
Fourth; With your VOM or circuit tester check you are having voltage at coils terminals and as per your manual check your coils primary and secondary impedance.
Fifth; Following your manual instructions make the required tests to your signal generator and your CDI; OR check the condition and voltage of your points.
Sixth; Check all your harness connections concerning to your ignition system.
Seventh; Check you are having fuel at your carburetors, if not check your fuel cock. One thing that works is to open the valve at reserve.

Once you have both fuel and ignition your engine should start without any problem.
GOOD LUCK
 
Thanks for the replies. I've already replaced the solenoid (had one I'd grabbed previously so I figured I would go ahead and put it on) and cleaned the battery connections so I guess I will just start at the fuse box and go from there.

Is there a way to clean the larger plastic connectors or do I just want to make sure those are good and tight?
 
Is there a way to clean the larger plastic connectors or do I just want to make sure those are good and tight?
Click to expand...

CRC makes a product called QD electronics cleaner that works well to remove grease and grime from sensitive electronics. It is also safe on plastic. You should be able to get it at any autoparts store or Walmart.

Another good product is DeoxIT from CAIG laboratories. They make products that clean and protect electrical connectors.
 
Clean the kill switch. Are you sure the clutch interlock switch if working?
 
Well I started cleaning electrical contacts starting at the battery and to the fuse box which I cleaned to some degree (i'm going to go get some Deoxit today) and now get just a 1V loss to the kill switch. Messed around with the start switch some more and now it works. The clutch switch has apparently been disabled by the PO. Also going to get some spade connectors and start replacing the bullet connectors.
 
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