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Electrical nightmare

  • Thread starter Thread starter mike1414
  • Start date Start date
M

mike1414

Guest
Hey fellas,

Yet another question for the books. So when I got my 79 550 I was in a bit of a hurry; before buying I started it, rode it around, then continued to let it idle for a minute whilst I paid the PO. When I bought it, I failed to lift up the seat to look at the massive amount of electrical work that [seems to] has been redone. I have a rat's nest under my seat if I have ever seen one before.

This being said, when I first brought the bike home, I was able to kick start it in about 2 kicks normally, and it would only take pressing the start button once to get him to fire up. Since, it seems as though the electrical has been QUICKLY draining the battery. On a fully charged battery I can press and hold the start button and it will turn over and fire up for about 2 seconds at a very low idle then cut off. I have tried starting with the choke and carbs on, on prime, with a full throttle, etc. Can't kick it to life, and it won't stay running with the starter button.

After about 5 tries starting it, my battery almost completely dead. I went and bought a brand new battery and the same thing continues happening.

The R/R looks fairly new



and there is what looks like a fairly new after market "Power Center" (which I am assuming is simply the fuse box) on it.



It seems to have an aftermarket horn and signals and the battery has been downsized for some stupid a$$ reason, but otherwise, just seems like a lot of stuff was re-located.






(the red and blue wire clips go with the tank)



Any ideas as to why my battery is not staying charged upon trying to start the bike?

It's quite frustrating getting a "new-you-bike" and not being able to hop on it and ride off into the florida sunset. Help me please!!!
 
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Yeah I am unfortunately at a disadvantage as I did none of the electrical work, and some of the wire colors have been changed etc. so although an upgraded electrical system is nice, I wish it came with a manual haha. Thanks for the link!
 
".....It's quite frustrating getting a "new-you-bike" and not being able to hop on it and ride off into the florida sunset. Help me please!!! "

News flash! best to doublecheck everything before you put your life at risk with someone else's handiwork!
 
Yup, so I have no problem going over it and trying to fix it. Just anxious to get on there and ride.
 
Eastern beaver replacement fuse panel. Later MosFET regulator/rectifier with eastern beaver hard shell connectors. Definitely not a low buck style of repair. Personally I don't care for all the replacement spade connectors.

Did the seller ever say it was being ridden daily? Or do you think this was non plated bike because he was still having troubles with it?

If it were me, the first thing I would do is unplug the connector with the three yellow wires coming from the stator that are plugged into the R/R and see what the A.C. output of the stator is at 5,000 rpm's.
 
What's your battery voltage. Agree with rustybronco. The setup seems to be newer and better then stock. Just need to make sure that everything is connected correctly and in working order. Don't worry about color code. Just make sure it's connected to the right place. Three wires from the stator to the correct R/R locations. Ground wire from R/R to battery and positive out from R/R to either the fuse box or straight to the battery through a fuse. If it will crank and start but not keep running then either the battery voltage is WAY low with no charger output or the carbs are out of whack.
 
Checking all connections dills gently before any test would be the most prudent approach
 
So it sounds like your stator is shot but someone took a really nice R/R and fuse block then mucked it up. Might want to start over with the connections like the other folks have suggested and run through the stator checks.
 
I will also agree. Nice R/R, even better fuse box (Power Center), probably a bad stator, but checking everyting will verify.

Just so you know, that fuse box sells for $60. :eek: I think it's worth it, I have one on three of our four GSes here.
icon_thumbsup.gif


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Try a new battery after checking all connections- you mentioned the battery was too small. It should still charge if it is the wrong size. If battery is good you know you have a charging issue- plenty of know how folks in this post to get you going again.
 
Maybe all that junk under the seat is plugging the airbox, now that you've started fiddling with it?

Also, why not see if the battery is draining with the key off? Usually, tha 10amp function of a cheap multimeter can do this. But yes, by the look of it, you will have quite a job Comprehending what the PO did and Why....
 
Sorry guys I've been outside working on it after I got off of work. I think I will have to agree with everyone in saying that the stator seems to be shot, from everything that you guys have been saying as well as what I have found online. I fully charged my brand new battery, again, put it on the bike, and attempted to start it via switch, and it didn't turn over, the battery seemed to just be drained.

But, I kicked it a time or two and she fired up. I guess there was just enough charge left. So I rode it around for a bit after starting it, and went through the gears shifting at about 4500 RPM's, and when I got back I turned the key off and went to turn the bike back on, and it still did not want to start with the switch.

I don't have the time this week to get a voltage meter, but I plan on doing an oil change this weekend to [hopefully] solve my oil leak problem and bogging down...as well as put on my new shorty mufflers, but I will also get a voltage meter and see whats going on with the electrical system and see if the battery is being drained.

Side note: that's pretty awesome that the fuse box is a good upgrade; I honestly thought it was a piece of garbage haha. I love the R/R as well as the fuse box, but hate the location of basically that entire rat's nest. Here's to cleaning it up soon :rolleyes:
 
Just make sure it's connected to the right place. Three wires from the stator to the correct R/R locations. Ground wire from R/R to battery and positive out from R/R to either the fuse box or straight to the battery through a fuse. If it will crank and start but not keep running then either the battery voltage is WAY low with no charger output or the carbs are out of whack.

This is basically exactly what happens when I try to start via starting switch; it turns over, but basically if I don't continue to hold the switch then it doesn't continue to run. Seems like my next step is buy a voltage meter and check it out.
 
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