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Electrical Problem(s)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
With all the extra lights, etc., I think the simplest thing would be to install an ampmeter so you will know whether youre using more or less than available charging current.

Earl

chester said:
I should mention, my bike is heavily modified. It has a LOT of extra lights. Is a beefier stator/RR available? Is that needed? Or shouldn't it really matter as there is usually excess current anyways? Could these extra lights (about 10) be putting extra strain on the charging system? I usually run with them off, but it would be nice to have them on more often. Seeing as I'm spending the $$, I'd like to do it right. I hate doing things twice. Also...I may end up putting a radio in... so that would draw more too. Am I starting to go overboard? I think I've had too many beers...maybe one more!
Click to expand...
 
earlfor said:
Just because something is new, does not guarantee it is in working order. :-)
Sometimes, they screw up. LOL

Earl
Click to expand...

Aint that the truth!!!!!!!!

PS: the right mobil one does help cooling beter than dino oil, and usualy works fine, but sometimes it does cause leaks.
generaly when it does cause a leak, the seal was not long from leaking anyways.
 
chester said:
You sure got that right. Sooo, the oil that I'll be draining... That's the engine oil, right? I'm currently running mobil 1, which from reading around here sounds like it could be a bad thing. I've had no clutch slippage and I am a firm believer in syn. I have however, started leaking oil, which I think is a common occurance when switching any used motor to syn. Thoughts? I was also thinking of switching the gearbox oil to syn as well. Good/bad? I know this is a pretty basic and stupid question, but hey, I dunno. Gonna go take the side of the engine off now... I think it's the left (while sitting on it).....right?
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synthetic works great in the secondary gear box and final drive, I use a full synthetic boat out drive (for out boards/ stern drives) and I could tell a differance in reduced friction.
 
What's the right way to get the voltage regulator off? It's mounted under the battery with two philips head screws. I don't have enough room to get at them and am worried I'll end up stripping them. Best I can think is to use a socket wrench with a philip bit. Thoughts?

Getting the stator out wasn't too bad. Used an impact driver and that worked great. This is really awesome having your peoples' help. I am learning a lot. Thanks for all the great feedback/help!!
 
When I had to replace the R/R on my old 750, it was mounted on the bottom of the battery box and damn difficult to get to the screws holding the R/R. I found the easiest thing to do was remove the battery and then remove the two screws that held the battery box in place. Then all you gotta do is lift the box out and turn the sucker over in yer grubby lil mitts. :-)

Earl


chester said:
What's the right way to get the voltage regulator off? It's mounted under the battery with two philips head screws. I don't have enough room to get at them and am worried I'll end up stripping them. Best I can think is to use a socket wrench with a philip bit. Thoughts?

Getting the stator out wasn't too bad. Used an impact driver and that worked great. This is really awesome having your peoples' help. I am learning a lot. Thanks for all the great feedback/help!!
Click to expand...
 
Bonus. Thanks, man. Have you ever ordered from bikebandits.com? They are considerably cheaper than other places (for the same part and same brand) but they have no phone number to call. Just email, which makes me worry about what kind of outfit they are.
 
This might be a stupid question, but here she goes: I've determined my stator and RR are bad. I've been checking around to see if I could get the parts locally. Local bike shops want to sell me the flywheel with the stator. Do I need it? Is there a way to test my current flywheel? I feel like they are just trying to suck me dry...
 
I've ordered more stuff from them than I should admit over a lot of years. :-) :-) They're cool. Good place to deal with. I give'em, 4 stars. :-)

Earl


chester said:
Bonus. Thanks, man. Have you ever ordered from bikebandits.com? They are considerably cheaper than other places (for the same part and same brand) but they have no phone number to call. Just email, which makes me worry about what kind of outfit they are.
Click to expand...
 
electrical ghosts

electrical ghosts

I've been reading at this forum rather than start a new post since my electrical problems are pretty similar. I found why my bike was stumbling and stopping (fried yellow wire coming off of the Electrex stator) and after replacing said wire, I ran all the checks. Voltage coming from the stator is correct (65-80), voltage at the battery terminals from the RR is good also (13.5-14.5). I tested as per Earlfor's post. What worries me is I'd like to find out what caused it all so it doesn't appear again when I'm far, far from home. I found one short on a wire from the starter button but that was long after an initial repair and I don't think it was the problem.
One thing I did notice when I check the R/R (Electrex RR9) when it's disconnected is that the resistance between wires is equally around 18-20 when testing in the X1 ? range and I think that's supposed to be between 5-6. Electrics ain't my strong suit, and when I'm using a multitester, I get that look on my face like a dog that's been shown a card trick.
I don't have a diode tester on my older multitester so I might try to find somebody with better knowledge and equip to check out the RR, though like I said the numbers look good at the battery.
I've been running Mobil 1 in the bike for about 20K now. The car kind (10-30), not the specialized Mobil1 for bikes. No problems, no leaks. It's also been run in my car for 250K and the motor is still original and very strong. I swear by it.
Hope you get your electrics sorted out. Mine runs now and I guess I'll keep checking the wiring from time to time inspecting for meltdowns unless somebody's got a great idea or suggestion as to where to look next. A backup RR might be a good smart purchase.

Thanks for the help.

Mushman

82 GS1100EZ
 
Oil

Oil

this for mushman, read the article about oil in the GSRESOURES, it well tell ya everything you need to know about it. Dont ever use plain jane 10-30 car oil in a bike, it doesnt have the thermo or lube qualities a bike needs. Go synehtic all the way and nothing ligher then a 10-40 with one exception, winter riding. I use a 20-50 syn for summer and a 10-40 for winter. Hell, i wouldnt use a 10-30 in anything, 10-30s were mandated by the EPA in the late 70s to reduce emissions and thats it. they have no concerns on engine life. The EPA in short focred the car companies to only list and/ or require to use a 10-30 in their manuals.
 
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