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Electrical question re: LEDs

You guys are doing way too much thinking for such a simple project.
The flasher is the whole problem and it's easy to fix.
My 550 runs all Leds with no resistors and a modded three terminal electronic flasher available at any auto parts store.

Read this. http://www.mesa4x4.com/tech_articles...r/flasher.html
 
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Jaguarjoe said:
Those dummy load resistors must be placed in parallel (or across) the LED light to work. Putting them in line will not work. Th object here is to consume current. Placing them in line will only allow the LED to limit current in the circuit- usually about 20 ma. or so. Placing them in parallel will cause it to draw 2+ amps if they're 5 ohms- more than enough to satisfy the flasher.

LED's do not generate enough heat to melt anything. You could keep them on for 11 years and nothing would come close to melting.
Click to expand...



You're right, what do I know from installing them per the mfr's directions?

If you wire them in-line, they trip the flasher.

And the second part was about incandescent bulbs melting their housing...


-Q!
 
I always thought that as you added more resistors in parallel then you total resistance value would drop.
example:
R1 X R2/R1+R2

If I had 4 100 ohm resistors in parallel then the total resistance would be 25 ohms based off of my calculations. So therefor why would I wire the resistor in parallel with the LEDs as this would only lower my overall resistance.
 
doug g said:
I always thought that as you added more resistors in parallel then you total resistance value would drop.
example:
R1 X R2/R1+R2

If I had 4 100 ohm resistors in parallel then the total resistance would be 25 ohms based off of my calculations. So therefor why would I wire the resistor in parallel with the LEDs as this would only lower my overall resistance.
Click to expand...
You are quite correct. \\:D/

Why would you want to do the resisitor in parallel? Why not?

Have you measured the resisitance of an LED? No, I hadn't either, until writing this, so let's do the math...14 volts, only 30mA, is equivalent to about 525 ohms. Putting a 25-ohm resistor in parallel with that, and using the formula, equals 23.86 ohms, meaning it will allow just over half an amp to flow. Not enough to trigger the thermal flashers, but you get the idea. If you use a 10-ohm resistor, the resulting parallel circuit will be 9.8 ohms, which will allow just about 1.4 amps. Might trigger some of the most sensitive thermals. Using a 5-ohm resistor, circuit is 4.95 ohms, allowing 2.8 amps, which is close to what one incandescent bulb draws. Again, might trigger some of the sensitive ones, but...:|

If you put the resistor in series with the LED, you will have about 550 ohms equivalent, which will only allow 25mA, meaning the LED will not be as bright as it should be, and, by drawing even less current, it's even less likely to trigger a thermal flasher.

In other words, why go to the power-saving benefits of LED lighting and then have to provide an alternate path so you end up using the same amount of power anyway? :shock:


.
 
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Steve said:
In other words, why go to the power-saving benefits of LED lighting and then have to provide an alternate path so you end up using the same amount of power anyway? :shock:
Click to expand...
The simple answer is "so that you have a more reliable light source and don't have to worry about burnouts."

BUT

I'd much rather upgrade to an electronic flasher so that I COULD take advantage of the lower voltage/amperage benefits of LED ... that leaves more available power (from our already weak charging systems) for all the extra "doodads" I've got running on the bike, like the stereo, the GPS, the digital clock/voltmeter/thermometer, etc.

Regards,
 
That was pretty much my point, too. With all the calculations and then trial-and-error involved in getting the correct resistors, then finding a place to connect and mount them, why not just get a new flasher and be done with it?


.
 
Steve said:
That was pretty much my point, too. With all the calculations and then trial-and-error involved in getting the correct resistors, then finding a place to connect and mount them, why not just get a new flasher and be done with it?
Click to expand...

I kind of figured we were thinking the same thing ... but for somebody who might have misinterpreted your post I figured I'd post "the answer," hehe!

Regards,
 
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