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electro sport stator

  • Thread starter Thread starter last337
  • Start date Start date
last337 said:
I'm actually looking at this with some rested (sober) eyes now and I'm even more confused. I wonder if this was even hooked up right to begin with. I have two stator wires going to the old r/r attaching to a yellow wire and a white/blue wire on the old r/r. I have another station wire going to a green/white wire that goes back into the wiring harness. From the old r/r there is a black wire going to ground, a white/red wire going to harness and a solid red going into harness. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

there are directions in the link GS Charging system health. The wires you are describing sounds like the stock factory wiring. As has been repeated here often wire the stator direct to the R/R and ignore the G/W and W/B. Follow the grounding recommendations as well. I don have the SH-775 pin out but it is a simple 5 wire R/R
 
You want the 3 wires coming from stator going direct to R/R - in attached pic. the 3 yellow wires from stator plug into the SH775 as shown, the red (the positive feed) goes where your old red from old R/R goes into harness. The black wire (the negative) needs to go to a good common ground or at least the battery negative.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the reply. I saw a few guys talking about the stick routing back into the harness not being the best way to go. Could you put the red directly to positive of battery with like a 15amp inline fuse?
 
last337 said:
Thanks for the reply. I saw a few guys talking about the stick routing back into the harness not being the best way to go. Could you put the red directly to positive of battery with like a 15amp inline fuse?
Click to expand...

you can as that is the simplest and doesn't require cleaning your harness but it changes the fuse requirements and you need at least a 20 amp fuse. For that reason I don't wire my R/R that way.
 
I'm curious why you don't like that setup. seems easier without having to get into harness.
 
last337, did you understand tom203's picture? Being colour-blind?...

in tom203's picture, the red positive R/R output wire is on the left of the two-lug place of the R/R. The black negative Ground wire is on the right of the two-lug place.
The three stator wires go to the three-lug place on the R/R. Your three wires from the stator aren't all yellow, but it doesn't matter. Plug them in in any order on the three-lug place of the R/R. (the old Suzuki Factory setup has one stator wire wandering away to the light switch and back but that setup is now "deprecated".)

My smaller bike is simpler than your 1100- there is only one fuse to protect the bike's wiring.... On my bike, the R/R Red positive output wire is connected to the battery directly.

but as a possibly useful note, it is connected to where my battery's main positive/red lead is connected at the Starter Solenoid. The starter solenoid has a nice tall posts with nuts. The advantage of this is that the battery has just one thick red positive wire lug to attach (and ,of course, one thick black negative lug on the other side!) and it makes removal from the battery box Easier...
 
Thanks for all the info! I really appreciate the detail as far as which is to right and which is to the left, it is very helpful.

I also looked at the comparison b/w the two setups that posplyr did. So if I did want to keep the original configuration, what wires should I replace before putting everything back together? I admit I didnt go through the complete 'fault finding chart' before the stator got fried and now I dont know what to test without the bike running. I dont want to hook it back up and start it and have the same problem fry a brand new stator.
 
your confusion might be my fault. You have a new stator, you say,per your first post
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1959280&postcount=1
while I was thinking you still had the old one with three different coloured wires....and your new stator has MORE wires as in:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1885510&postcount=9
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1885580&postcount=16
however, the colour-code of the extra wires indicate they are merely duplicates.
Being colourblind will make this hard so you perhaps have difficulty telling the blue/white from the green/white?....

IF you post a photo with the wires laid out in order, we can tell you which are the duplicates.


Normally, it would be simple to see which by testing for perfect continuity between the clones with a multimeter, but yes, the stator windings also have very low resistance and it will be difficult to tell for sure with a cheapie multimeter
 
I think I got it all figures out at this point. I was able to see bundle dthe multiple wires together by stripping back harness coming from stator and connected to r/r. I'm going to go ahead and use simple method of going direct to battery from r/r with a 20amp fuse on red. I will go ahead and put a new ground to frame while I'm at it. I am wondering what gauge wire should i use?
 
last337 said:
I think I got it all figures out at this point. I was able to see bundle dthe multiple wires together by stripping back harness coming from stator and connected to r/r. I'm going to go ahead and use simple method of going direct to battery from r/r with a 20amp fuse on red. I will go ahead and put a new ground to frame while I'm at it. I am wondering what gauge wire should i use?
Click to expand...

16 gauge is fine just make sure you clean the connectors and crimps ; get some detoxit as well.
 
gearhead13 said:
16 Gauge:eek: Maybe be ok for stator wires. I used 12 gauge for my + and - wires to the battery.
Click to expand...

OK I take it back for the primary Red I'm using 14 AWG for the SPB but 16 AWG for all the individual circuits. The R/R probably doesn't have much bigger than 16 but I guess it depends on the connector.

12 AWG is overkill unless you are running the R/R in front of the engine.
 
I currently have a #8 ground to engine and that is it. I saw a thread that said

#8 to engine
#8 to frame (im guessing one from post to frame, then frame to engine)

and then 12 for others but I am wondering if I go from R/R to frame with 12 or 16 if I have new #8 like stated above

I am really trying to understand why/how this is all so important so I want to do it as best as possible without pulling apart whole harness
 
last337 said:
I currently have a #8 ground to engine and that is it. I saw a thread that said

#8 to engine
#8 to frame (im guessing one from post to frame, then frame to engine)

and then 12 for others but I am wondering if I go from R/R to frame with 12 or 16 if I have new #8 like stated above

I am really trying to understand why/how this is all so important so I want to do it as best as possible without pulling apart whole harness
Click to expand...
Your grounds from battery should be 8 ga to frame and engine. The wires from your R&R to battery should be at least 14ga, I used 12ga. Better to wire R&R ground to battery IMO. Stator wires can be 14-16 IMO, i have had them heat up and melt. Also soldering all connections is highly recommended, blade and bullets connectors can be a point of failure from overheating from resistance from my experience.
 
gearhead13 said:
Your grounds from battery should be 8 ga to frame and engine. The wires from your R&R to battery should be at least 14ga, I used 12ga. Better to wire R&R ground to battery IMO. Stator wires can be 14-16 IMO, i have had them heat up and melt. Also soldering all connections is highly recommended, blade and bullets connectors can be a point of failure from overheating from resistance from my experience.
Click to expand...

Thank you that is exactly what I needed. If I go directly to battery from grounds and R/R I will have a lot of things to tie together at neg battery post. I always wonder if it better to go into one ring terminal with everything at battery or use two ring terminals. I just think that someone might possibly hook it up and miss a ground if there are two separate ones.
 
last337 said:
Thank you that is exactly what I needed. If I go directly to battery from grounds and R/R I will have a lot of things to tie together at neg battery post. I always wonder if it better to go into one ring terminal with everything at battery or use two ring terminals. I just think that someone might possibly hook it up and miss a ground if there are two separate ones.
Click to expand...

I run 3 grounds, battery to engine, RR to battery and RR to frame. That was from the ole shunt RR days, though I kept it for the Compufire anyways, what could it hurt.
 
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