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Engine Build Advice for 78 GS1000 Roadracer

  • Thread starter Thread starter rcp
  • Start date Start date
Has anyone mentioned welding 2nd gear to stop it spinning on the shaft or did i miss that post?
 
Might it be cheaper, easier and quicker to buy this one already built?

http://www.usedottawa.com/classified-ad/8220966

1978 GS 1000

36,000km's,very clean, Lockhart oil cooler, Wolf exhaust, Dyna electronic ignition,1085cc Wiseco Big Bore Kit, Gs 1000S fairing, superbike bars. Runs very well . Compression test (145-150psi)

Was $3200 NEW PRICE ! $2850

Ideal for street or track as a vintage race bike
 
Roger P. said:
Might it be cheaper, easier and quicker to buy this one already built?

http://www.usedottawa.com/classified-ad/8220966

1978 GS 1000

36,000km's,very clean, Lockhart oil cooler, Wolf exhaust, Dyna electronic ignition,1085cc Wiseco Big Bore Kit, Gs 1000S fairing, superbike bars. Runs very well . Compression test (145-150psi)

Was $3200 NEW PRICE ! $2850

Ideal for street or track as a vintage race bike
Click to expand...


After all the work RCP put into his bike, you suggest he give up and go buy a different one?:confused:
 
I thought he was starting from scratch, and with others quoting up to $7k for a bike, I figured it was a bit of a bargain.
 
That bike's for sale by the original builder of mine. I've seen it and it's a nice looker. (So was mine two owners ago when he had it). More motor than mine was/is but less handling.

Plus: There's two thing I want out of this a whole lotta motah! AND a lot more knowledge.

- Richard
 
Last edited:
2v homegrown top-end oiler

2v homegrown top-end oiler

Came across this the other day:
GS1000 top end oil kit how to

I'm not planning on doing this, but it was interesting to note that there's not much that "can't be done" with a bit of ingenuity.

- Richard
 
Picked up a pair of used cams yesterday. They're Web 109 grind, although I don't recognize the casting - doesn't look the any of the Suzuki ones I've seen.

P1000633.jpg

P1000639.jpg

P1000637.jpg

P1000636.jpg
 
Lift measures as .422" by dial guage on poorly calibrate freezer lid. Both I and the guy I bought them from were initially thrown off by the caliper measurements we got - only got a .410" difference between the lobe and base circle, but they are apparently already into the ramps across the sides of the lobe.

P1000645.jpg


Going to need to clearance the tappet bore (this is the small port head, but I believe the big-port head is the same).

P1000641.jpg
 
And .425" lift means I definitely need to sort out a set of shim-under-buckets, as the ones I have don't look useable to me:

P1000563.jpg

P1000569.jpg
 
Finally,

I took the lower crankcase into the welder this morning to get a more permanent fix (than the RTV that was there) for this cracked clutch cover hole.

P1000628.jpg


Should have it back tomorrow, all filled, and I will drill and tap a new hole.

- Richard
 
Rich, when you get the head back from me, just radius the areas that the cam lobes come the closest to. You only need about .060 of clearance. Ray.
 
those buckets do look pretty bad, can't surface them because i bet they are hardened and the surfacing will remove that. Whats the deal with the holes in 4 of them? Looks like new buckets from ape for you :(
 
Yeah, those are junk. Time for new buckets. Someone drilled them for additional oiling. I don't think it was necessary. I was referring to removing material from the top of tappet bores to clear the com lobes as far as my radiusing comment. Ray.
 
rapidray said:
Yeah, those are junk. Time for new buckets. Someone drilled them for additional oiling. I don't think it was necessary. I was referring to removing material from the top of tappet bores to clear the com lobes as far as my radiusing comment. Ray.
Click to expand...

Gotcha on clearancing the tappet bores to .060".

I'm going to clean up and inspect the springs, keepers and titanium retainers that came with the buckets. Anything in particular I should be looking for in those? What about spring strength and seat pressure? - I don't really know what numbers I'm looking for.

I need to get on the phone to APE and Web tomorrow. Work and kids have kept me busy between PST business hours, and I haven't had a chance to call.

I got the TL1000S out of storage this evening, and got in my first ride of the year. Man it feels good to be back on two wheels, but I'd like to know who raised my footpegs and lowered my bars over the winter. :-)

- Richard
 
Gidday Mate. I too road race a GS1000 , I am based in N,Z and have been picking Smithys brains for info regarding engine work . The basics are you must have your crank rebuilt and welded ect to keep those rods in . This can not be overlooked. Any other work done with out a rebuilt crank is simply a big money wasting exercise. Smithy also developed high compression 1100 pistons with big valve pockets , you get around 11.7 to 12 -1 compression depending on you head set up ect ect. The 1100 head has bigger combustion chambers so you will lose compression. 1980 1000 cylinder heads have big ports and are a good base for a trick race head.
If you have the compression get the right cams !!!!!!!!. These pistons allow for big cams but try to limit your cams to around 400 '' lift for reliability. Use under bucket shims. Use GS 750 oil pump gears , ratios the oil pump speed up so you get more oil flow witch is very important in our chosen sport. Let the pros do your head work , its a fine line between a mint trick race head and a useless piece of junk. Lots of power is made from the head gasket up but keep it simple . Cheers . Hope this helps.
 
Got a replacement transmission in the mail yesterday, just in time to stop me from splitting the cases on the 77 GS750 bottom end.

The transmission dogs look good, and everything was intact. I'm glad I disassembled everything that was behind circlips though, as I discovered that on the driveshaft, the spacer had been installed with the oiling hole misaligned.

I'm now considering whether I want to pull apart the countershaft to inspect. How much force is required to remove and install the press-fit gear? (I believe only the 2nd drive gear is press-fit). Can this be removed with a 2 or 3 jaw puller, and the reinstalled without a press?

- Richard
 
Those cams are on Engine Power castings. Very good. When you call us about the valve train stuff, just tell the phone guys that Jay knows about this stuff. We can do the retainers, springs, everything.

Jay
 
rapidray said:
No Rich, you need at least a 10 ton press to do it. A 20 ton would be better. Ray.
Click to expand...

Well, I won't put my spindly little three-jaw puller on it and attempt to crack the gear ring off it then. :-)

I think I can assume that no one ill-prepared has reassembled it then, and I'll leave it alone.

When I got to the welder at 5pm yesterday, my lower casting wasn't were it was supposed to have been left, around the side of the shop. So I get to wait until Monday to find out if it just wasn't done yet, or if some passer-by, or patron of the pub next door made off with it.

I just love not knowing. And practicing patience.

- Richard

"Must learn patience. Right. How long will that take?" -- Ed Gruberman
 
Big Jay said:
Those cams are on Engine Power castings. Very good. When you call us about the valve train stuff, just tell the phone guys that Jay knows about this stuff. We can do the retainers, springs, everything.

Jay
Click to expand...

Thanks Jay, will do. And thanks for the casting ID.

- Richard
 
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