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Engine covers clearcoat starting to look "icky": polish or go black???

  • Thread starter Thread starter t3rmin
  • Start date Start date
Dupli-Color Polished Aluminum or Brushed Aluminum Engine Enamel. Looks like fresh-cast parts, great against a black engine. I did my Shadow this way and it looked fantastic. I even painted the factory mags with it, looked brand new. For low-maintenance (read: I hate spending three hours cleaning my bike) it's the way to go.
 
txironhead said:
Dupli-Color Polished Aluminum or Brushed Aluminum Engine Enamel. Looks like fresh-cast parts, great against a black engine. I did my Shadow this way and it looked fantastic. I even painted the factory mags with it, looked brand new. For low-maintenance (read: I hate spending three hours cleaning my bike) it's the way to go.
Click to expand...

That's what I wanted to hear! Got pics?
 
Yes, I have pics, unfortunately they're on film and I discovered two nights ago that my scanner is junk. I'm in the process of looking for a flatbed scanner with negative film capabilities right now. I may just get this one scanned at Wally World because a lot of people want to see pics of my "Dupli-Color Shadow". I painted the engine, frame, rims and sheetmetal all with various colors/types of Dupli-Color paint, and no one believed me when they saw it. Even the guy I sold it to said that there was no way it could have been spray painted. Amazing what you can do with wet sanding and polishing compound.
 
Hah. I'm getting a bit more handy with a rattle can, but painting is still not my cup'o'tea. That's why I like matte finishes -- you can't go wrong. I shot my 750 starter cover with a matte finish high heat ceramic aluminum colored paint from the local hardware store and it looked fantastic. I think I'd like that same finish on the engine covers.
 
Shot the timing cover with high-temp aluminum and baked it and it looks fantastic. WAY easier than polishing. Will do the valve cover today and post pics.
 
I started polishing my cases and didn't care for the results.

I mean, I got stator cover and countershaft cover to shine like mirrors, but didn't like the way they looked against the matte-black engine.

I scuffed them and am painting my cases black. The problem is trying to figure out how to paint the recesses in the cases - "TSCC" on the valve cover, "Suzuki" on the cases, and the ring around the ignition cover....



I want to paint these recessed highlights red, like the GS750EF - any suggestions?


I just like the way black cases with polished allen-head bolts looks. I also like the look of a cast-finished engine with polished cases (like some of the newer Harleys), but not so much I want to tear down my engine to blast it ;).




-Q!
 
The only way to do it is careful work with masking tape and an Xacto knife and spray it, or a very steady hand with a brush.
 
I always hand brush in the lettering with enamel model paints and then clearcoat - never had a problem doing it that way. In fact, the model paint seems sturdier than the clearcoat.
 
I just left the logo and such aluminum colored for the "embossed" look.
 
It's easier if you're polishing your covers, then you'd just spray the entire area and wipe off the excess with acetone. It's really not that hard to hand paint, especially with a small brush and model paint. I've even seen people use nail polish. Hey, it's enamel, right?
 
Got some pics

Got some pics

Ok I've done the timing cover and valve cover while I had them off for valve adjustment. The rest to follow whenever I feel like it. ;-)

The sun washed out the pictures a bit... Anyway I'm very pleased with the result. As somebody else said, it looks just like fresh cast aluminum. Crisp uniform sparkly matte finish.

If you look at the stator cover in the second shot you'll see how things looked to begin with.

engine003oh2.jpg

engine004ow7.jpg

engine008mu5.jpg
 
Looks good. Really good. Kinda makes me wonder why I spent a whole weekend polishing my side covers...Oh well. I think they look real nice against the semi-gloss black engine. Now, just get yourself a stainless bolt set off ebay, and you'll be rockin!
 
Has anyone tried removing the clearcoat and polishing with the covers on the bike? Just asking, I can remove them and was planning to do so, but wondering if it's possible to do a good job without removing the covers.

Thanks!
 
GaThumper said:
Has anyone tried removing the clear coat and polishing with the covers on the bike? Just asking, I can remove them and was planning to do so, but wondering if it's possible to do a good job without removing the covers.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I wouldn't recommend it. That aircraft stripper is nasty stuff. Even the overspray will burn your skin. The parts often need a good sanding after stripping to remove any scuffs or corrosion stains.... easier done under a hose or a sink .The polishing part wouldn't be easy either.
 
renobruce said:
I wouldn't recommend it. That aircraft stripper is nasty stuff. Even the overspray will burn your skin. The parts often need a good sanding after stripping to remove any scuffs or corrosion stains.... easier done under a hose or a sink .The polishing part wouldn't be easy either.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. I was actually wondering about NOT using stripper if done on the bike... didn't know if a polishing compound could remove the clearcoat? Maybe start with a more agressive rubbing compound and then a polishing compound, then a polish? Just thinking...
 
GaThumper said:
Thanks for the reply. I was actually wondering about NOT using stripper if done on the bike... didn't know if a polishing compound could remove the clearcoat? Maybe start with a more agressive rubbing compound and then a polishing compound, then a polish? Just thinking...
Click to expand...

The problem with that is the little nooks and crannys (especially the clutch cover) are caked pretty thick with clearcoat. It would be hard to sand or polish it off. The aircraft stripper is the only way to go. Spray it on, wash it off, and you're ready for wet sanding and/or polishing.
 
renobruce said:
The problem with that is the little nooks and crannys (especially the clutch cover) are caked pretty thick with clearcoat. It would be hard to sand or polish it off. The aircraft stripper is the only way to go. Spray it on, wash it off, and you're ready for wet sanding and/or polishing.
Click to expand...

I'm sure you are right. I'll do it the right way eventually. I may experiment a little though... Mine are not totally bad, so I may pick out a spot where the clearcoat has started to bubble and play with it a bit. Definately want to strip and re-finish them later though. I'm going for a really nice restoration, but it may be a work in progress for a while, I'd rather be riding!

Here's a pic before I started this summer...

DSCN1260.jpg


and here's the other side just before removing the carbs...

DSCN1265.jpg
 
renobruce said:
The parts often need a good sanding after stripping to remove any scuffs or corrosion stains....
Click to expand...

Truth be told I stripped it, sprayed it with Simple Green and CLR, scrubbed it with a plastic bristle brush (like you use to wash dishes), sprayed it again with 409 and Windex, rinsed, dried, and painted. No sanding whatsoever. There were still corrosion stains with mild texture, but the aluminum paint went on smooth anyway, and after baking the matte finish hides imperfections. Doesn't get any easier!

The aerosol stripper from Walmart worked great. Nasty stuff! Didn't say "aircraft stripper" but I suspect it's the same stuff.

Also note this 1000 degree high heat aluminum paint (no-name brand from local hardware store) doesn't really start gassing out until 450 degrees. I started at 300 and bumped it up 50 degrees every 15 minutes and left it at 500 for like 45min. Then turned off the oven and let it sit overnight inside. I'm fairly sure my entire family will be developing massive tumors very soon after those fumes.
 
GaThumper said:
Has anyone tried removing the clearcoat and polishing with the covers on the bike? Just asking, I can remove them and was planning to do so, but wondering if it's possible to do a good job without removing the covers.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I've been pondering how I could paint the stator and clutch covers without removing. It annoys me to get into those oil control areas if I don't have to. Maybe sand the large areas and carefully blast a little stripper into the nooks and crannies, after removing all bodywork and laying rags over everything else. I think that would work, except:

1) I'd be painting the bolts. Not a big deal I guess. There seems to be some kind of "bolt kit" on this bike already (7mm hex heads) but they are a bit corroded. Or maybe I could find some clever way to mask them...
2) I'm not sure the stuff would cure under normal engine operating temps (see above post).
 
Gaskets are fairly cheap, and it's much, much easier to do it right than even doing a temporary job. You can do one cover a night and still be able to ride the bike in the morning, whether you go the painted or polished route. If you use the POR-15 clear, however, it takes 3-4 days to completely cure, so you might as well do it all at once and get it over with. Plus, it doesn't have a very long shelf life once it's opened.

I've painted the covers both ways, on and off the bike and from personal experience it's much easier to get good results by taking the part off of the bike, and it looks much better.

As far as the fumes go, I would NEVER bake the parts inside the house. The fumes and residue can linger and even possibly find it's way into foods cooked later. The health risks are too great. You can use a large toaster oven, which is fairly cheap, or hit a few garage sales or thrift shops and get an old oven to throw in the garage. You can buy curing lamps from Harbor Freight pretty cheap.
 
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