Engine Oil Canadian GS 400 (Why Rotella?)

[Polish-Jack]

So I finally managed to get my new to me GS400 running on both cylinders! Yay me! It only took me a few months and cleaning the carbs three times, breaking down and buying a small sonic cleaner, but the bike starts immediately now.

Now I have a question about oil. I keep seeing comments here about 'Shell Rotella T something-or-rather' but I can't find mention of it now that I want to do my first oil change. At the stores I see T4 though T6 and I'm not sure which one to get. Also, why does everyone seem to be using this oil for these old bikes? I hear talk that it is good and inexpensive, but Walmart has a Castrol oil specifically marketed for motorcycle use for very close in price while the Rotella stuff looks to be marketed for heavy vehicles with pictures of large trucks and the like on the jug.

What am I missing here?

 

[Nessism]

That Castrol motorcycle oil is fine. It's typically more expensive than the T4 is all.

The reason folks here like Rotella is because it's got additives appropriate for motorcycles and is cheaper than motorcycle oil. Typically a jug of T4 can be found for about $12 in the USA, and motorcycle oil is $5/quart. T6 is synthetic so you can wait longer between changes compared to conventional oil, but it's more expensive so it's a value judgement mostly. Synthetic oil also has an advantage at extreme high temperatures compared to regular oil. Hopefully you won't need that though but some people don't mind paying extra just in case they get caught in a traffic jam or what have you.

 

[Guest]

I use the T6 in most all of my bikes. I'm not sure about using it in sport bikes though. I haven't heard of how it will handle the higher rpms, but I think it would handle regular riding just fine. Only squids and wannabe racers go over 10k regularly.


Squid sighting side note.

We had a guy that bought a 2013 GSXR 1000 and brought it back after 600 miles complaining of it loosing power after 140 and that it was sluggish under 4k. I do all the test rides after the initial inspection and a PDI rides before it leaves in the customers hands. I have a nice stretch where I can nail it hard through the gears letting off around 100. So it would be hard for me to test a bike and see what happens around 140, but before the guy got it seemed fine and hauled butt. Symptoms pointed to the fuel pump and maybe the CCT since the chain was rather noisy. I test rode it and I can feel the low rpm issue, but there is now way I'm going to jail to see what it does at 140 on a 55mph road. Either way it doesn't have the power it left with.

I lift the tank and disconnect the fuel line and it just pours from the pump, so I'm thinking it's not keeping up the pressure to feed the engine at high rpms. So with the pump changed and a manual CCT, I take it out again. Not much difference, so I tell the boss I want to do a comp test on it. BTW I had already checked the valves. Well the test revealed a 105, 110, 105 and 10 psi in #4. Specs say 148 to 256psi with a 28 psi difference. This guy has literally trashed this engine, also the fork seal have been dripping on my lift since it returned. So the question is, squid or wannabe racer?

 

[Cipher]

what possible utility was the last post\? meandering and of no use to anyone. engines wear out. was the valves done up proper?

 

[Brendan W]

This article goes some way to explaining why GS riders use truck oil
http://www.vfrworld.com/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm

 

[Gorminrider]

I'd go for the Castrol at Walmart or Canadian tire . Or spend more at a MC store.

The diesel pickup truck stuff "works" but in my experience, on that bike, I'd only buy it on sale and not expect it to be as friendly as the Castrol, longer term. It's probably ok for the engine, but my gearbox stiffens up after a 1000km with many of them which, again, may not mean harm, but I don't like it. Some of the diesel oils seem better than others too. The Rotella T6 I did not like at all.