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Engine Oil Question

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
Have you tried heavy duty clutch springs or just installing a new ste of standards. That would be a more realistic solution for clutch slippage with an oil that has proven itself over many years.
Click to expand...

HD Springs 8O 8O :? :? Not in this traffic. I DID replace the standard springs. I change the clutch back in like Septmeber/Oct. I never had a problem til last week when I'd been in heavy traffic and the bike was getting hot. Once I got free I goosed it a bit and really felt some slipping. THat's the first time I felt it. Next day same thing. The other night, it was hardly noticeable at all. I was just under 1,000 miles, so I changed the oil anyway. WIth the Rotella I mad a 270 mile trip on Sat with no slippage. Yesterday - 70 miles, and today on the way in - No slip. So, I figure maybe the heat or traffic, but Rotella works for me so I'm sticking with it. Could just be some sort of coincidence, but oh well. Rotella is a buck cheaper too. :lol:
 
DMPLATT said:
Have you tried heavy duty clutch springs or just installing a new ste of standards. That would be a more realistic solution for clutch slippage with an oil that has proven itself over many years.
Click to expand...

HD Springs 8O 8O :? :? Not in this traffic. I DID replace the standard springs. I change the clutch back in like Septmeber/Oct. I never had a problem til last week when I'd been in heavy traffic and the bike was getting hot. Once I got free I goosed it a bit and really felt some slipping. THat's the first time I felt it. Next day same thing. The other night, it was hardly noticeable at all. I was just under 1,000 miles, so I changed the oil anyway. WIth the Rotella I mad a 270 mile trip on Sat with no slippage. Yesterday - 70 miles, and today on the way in - No slip. So, I figure maybe the heat or traffic, but Rotella works for me so I'm sticking with it. Could just be some sort of coincidence, but oh well. Rotella is a buck cheaper too. :lol:
Click to expand...
Did you also adjust the clutch when you changed to the rotella.
I'm asking because i am wondering if the clutch was already not properly adjusted. i know it sounds backwards because a hot clutch will grab not slip. I am just grabbing at possibilities or whatever.
 
Did you also adjust the clutch when you changed to the rotella.
I'm asking because i am wondering if the clutch was already not properly adjusted. i know it sounds backwards because a hot clutch will grab not slip. I am just grabbing at possibilities or whatever.
Click to expand...

I check the adjustment as soon as I got home after it slipped. Here's the thread.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/viewtopic.php?t=30389

Thanks for the help.

It seems fine now, so all I can think of is that maybe I can only get 1,000 miles on an oil change - or it doesn't like Castrol? Sound plausible?
 
mobil delvac 15w40 diesel oil. working fine in -82 katana. not joking!
 
did you soak the discs in oil for at least 1 hour (prefereably overnight) before installing them in the bike?
 
You probably have been over this already, but are you sure the cable is adjusted correctly? When I replaced my slipping clutch I set the cable exactly at the right (or wrong) tension so there was no free play what-so-ever in the cable, but it wasn't pulling the clutch throw rod at all. It still made it enough to slip pretty bad. Is the lever a little loose, like 1/4" before feeling the tension of the cable?
 
Cool, this turned into a multipurpose thread. :lol: :lol: :lol:

When I adjust the clutch cable per the factory manual, like 1/8 or 1/16" (can't remember which) Then set the push rod adjustment to the factory tension, I could'nt get the clutch to disengage. It must've been 1/8" I now have it set to more like a 1/16". There is slack. I also have RE-CHECKED the push rod adjustment and it's still good.

Again, it hasn't slipped on me after changing the oil. I goosed it on the way home today when I could, and no slip in 2nd or 3rd. So I'm assuming it was either excessive dirty oil (<1,000?) or the Castrol?

She's pulling good now.

Thanks all.
 
You cant go wrong with Rotella T :D I have been using it since the mid 80's It doesn't brake down at higher temps. I run it in my GS & Road Tractor ( that has over a million miles on it now ) with out any problems :twisted:
 
AOD said:
I use Mobil 1 synthetic in the bike and have no problems. I use 10W30 if it's cooler...

~Adam
Click to expand...

10W-30 car oil? I would worry about 10W-30 car oil being labelled "energy conserving", and therefore too slippery. That's why I stick with oils of 10W-40 or higher, including 10W-40 GTX and 15W-50 Mobil 1. They're not "energy conserving".
 
Yup, used to run 10W30 and 10W40 Penzoil in my first GS550. I ran it that way for at least a year, even when it leaked oil like a pig (totally unrelated incident).

Check your owners manual, it will show you 10W30 is okay for cooler temps.
 
AOD said:
Check your owners manual, it will show you 10W30 is okay for cooler temps.
Click to expand...

Who am I to disagree? I'm no expert. Is it a concern that the oils might have been grippier when the owner's manual was written?
 
I ran dinosaur 10/40 oil with no problems, then tried 20/50 GTX. The 20/50 made my clutch not disengage as well. Bigger clunk from neutral to first, and with the correct freeplay set the clutch would start to engage 1/4 inch off of the handlebar. 10/40 seems to be the thickest the clutch pack will tolerate in my bike.

I used to think thicker is better but I have changed my perception on that. Helicopters are pumping 2000 HP through the main gear box and they approve Dextron ATF, or 20 weight synthetic. Also many car standard transmissions use ATF. You don't need heavy 10/40 oil just because there are gears involved. I no longer believe thick is good. Thinner oils lubricate fine and disipate heat better IMHO.
 
dietcokeking said:
AOD said:
Check your owners manual, it will show you 10W30 is okay for cooler temps.
Click to expand...

Who am I to disagree? I'm no expert. Is it a concern that the oils might have been grippier when the owner's manual was written?
Click to expand...


it's entirely possible that the manual was written before the energy conserving oils were well into their present state :)
 
I'm just sayin! :)

If anything, oil quality today is better than oil quality of 1979.
 
I use an aussie brand called Penrite HPR30 (not to be confused with penzoil)_

it is 20W60 weight, and works in all my bikes very well. It is well suited to the aussie summer heat (has been around 38c this last week and 98% humidity)

The downside is that when shifting it is slightly harder.

Ive tried the thinner oils (10W40) and its just too thin, they all overheat my GS, and I cant afford to seize my GS750, Ive stuck 28thousand K on it since Jan 2004.
 
Wish I hadn't read this :cry: . Now my head hurts. How about Wesson vegetable oil? Anybody running that? Sorry. Just couldn't help myself.
 
I personally wouldnt use vegetable oil, it can easily burn, and isnt designed for (especially) an air cooled engine, and wil only cost you a major engine rebuild (if it doesnt result in seizure.)

just my 2 cents.
 
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