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Engine Running Problems!!! Fuel Or Ignition??

  • Thread starter Thread starter tarzanscot
  • Start date Start date
T

tarzanscot

Guest
1983 Suzuki Gs 750e, Mods-(stage 3 Jet Kit Dynojet, Pods With The Stock Air Box
Rubber Velocity Stacks - Inside The Pods, Dyna Rev Limiter 2 Stage, And Vance And Hines 4 Into 1 Megaphone)- (runns Better With Baffle Out Otherwise Reversion Occurs). Ok So My Question Is I Was Riding My Bike And Under Load/acceleration In 3rd 4th Gear I Can Throttle Wide Open And No Accelleration At All It Will Spit And Chug For 10 Sec And Then I Think When
Accellerator Pumps Kick In?- It Will Haul Butt. But There Is No Midrange Power Under Load. Then When I Get To My Destination And Turn Off The Bike Then
Later Start It Up It Doesnt Start Low Cranking Power. Then I Leave The Bike Alone For 5 Hours And Start It Up Engine Does Not Move And Smells Like Fuel.
Come To Find Out Cyl On The Right Side End Is Full Of Fuel Had To Pull Out Spark Plug And Empy Fuel Out. Please Help My Theory Is That My Generator When Bike Is Hot Is Not Charging And Resulting In Low Coil Secondary Output Voltage (low Spark Engery) Resulting In The Chugging And Sputtering For 10sec Then It Accelerates Hard. The Fuel Filling The Cylinder I Have No Idea? Please Help Ive Checked My Bike Voltage At Battery (which Is A Gell Battery) And Found13v Ive Not Checked It When Hot But I Will. Please Someone Help Im Getting Married
In 10 Days And I Need To Fix This Bike. Ive Spent Aroung 4,000$ Restorng This Bike
And I Need Someone To Spend Time With Me To Get It Reliable. Thank You
 
the fuel filling the cylinder sounds like either a badly ajusted float or a leaky petcock. check your float bowl heigth per the manual and check your petcock. if you pull off the fuel and vac hoses, and put it on prime, it should run freely, if you put it on run/res it shouldn't have any flow at all, then suck a little on the vac line and it should flow freely.
 
The right carb filling the cylinder would seem to indicate a float stuck open and a faulty petcock (or petcock on prime?). Is this a new problem? If so, what changed?

Have you cleaned the carbs? Have the carbs been tuned for that intake setup?

It may be that you need to do some work on your electrical system (search the forum for the coil relay mod), but I can't see engine temp falling fast enough to suddenly restore spark and good combustion. Engine temp is probably higher sitting at a long traffic light, so that's when I'd expect problems (if that problem can occur with these coils).

The CV carbs (I assume that's what you have, round top?) don't have an accelerator pump, so your question seems to indicate you've never had them apart for cleaning. Once we know the condition of your carbs, someone more knowledgeable can jump in to advise you on getting the tuning right. If you haven't cleaned them, there's lots in info around here about how to do that too. Then you can get around to getting advice on making sure the tuning is correct.
 
Last edited:
Sorry, I tried to read it, but started getting dizzy.

Why does every word start with a capital letter?

This is harder to read than ALL CAPS. :shock:

.
 
Yeah I Went Through All The Carbs And Did A Stage 3 Jet Kit And Cleaned Them
New Everything Orings And Jets, Yes They Have A Round Plastic Top. Ok As Far As The Carb Tune I Know I Need To Get Them Sync'ed I Can Tell That Opening The Throttle Not All Throttle Flaps Are Opening At The Same Level. I Did A More Air Less Air Test With Just Foam Pods On And The Bike Barely Ran, Ran Lean With
Just Pods Because I Beleive That There Was Little Air Flow Velocity - Resulting
In No Venturi To Dump Fuel In Engine, Then I Put The Rubber Velocity Stacks
On From The Stock Air Box And The Bike Ran Better, But Not Perfect Still A Little Lean Then I Slipped The Foam Pods Over The Rubber Velocity Stack And
It Ran As Close To Perfect As It Can Get (well Without Sync'n The Carbs And
All). The Float I Could Check When I Get Home Today. And Ill Search For The
Coil Mod And In The Back Of My Mind I Beveive The Generator Is Bad Ive Had
This Dead Battery After Riding / Ideling For A While Now.
 
Steve said:
Sorry, I tried to read it, but started getting dizzy.

Why does every word start with a capital letter?

This is harder to read than ALL CAPS. :shock:

.
Click to expand...

I noticed the line wrapping is inconsistent too. Definitely hard to read with the irregular punctuation and formatting.
 
tarzanscot said:
Yeah I Went Through All The Carbs And Did A Stage 3 Jet Kit And Cleaned Them
New Everything Orings And Jets, Yes They Have A Round Plastic Top. Ok As Far As The Carb Tune I Know I Need To Get Them Sync'ed I Can Tell That Opening The Throttle Not All Throttle Flaps Are Opening At The Same Level. I Did A More Air Less Air Test With Just Foam Pods On And The Bike Barely Ran, Ran Lean With
Just Pods Because I Beleive That There Was Little Air Flow Velocity - Resulting
In No Venturi To Dump Fuel In Engine, Then I Put The Rubber Velocity Stacks
On From The Stock Air Box And The Bike Ran Better, But Not Perfect Still A Little Lean Then I Slipped The Foam Pods Over The Rubber Velocity Stack And
It Ran As Close To Perfect As It Can Get (well Without Sync'n The Carbs And
All). The Float I Could Check When I Get Home Today. And Ill Search For The
Coil Mod And In The Back Of My Mind I Beveive The Generator Is Bad Ive Had
This Dead Battery After Riding / Ideling For A While Now.
Click to expand...

Battery not charging? Have you gone through the Stator Papers? I'm not sure, but a failing regulator/rectifier might cause this kind of squirreliness. I'd want a stable charging system before trying to diagnose possible spark issues. Even if it's not the root of your power problem, you can't achieve your stated goal of a reliable bike without fixing this typically problematic system.
 
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