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exhaust bolts wont move

  • Thread starter Thread starter beeh200
  • Start date Start date
B

beeh200

Guest
im dizzy from looking at old posts,cant find info.i want to put a header on my 1150 but the bolts that hold flanges to cyl. head will not move.i can feel the bolts stretching as i apply force.tried wd but i know they will snap if i force them.is there a trick or am i stuck with stock exhaust.i thought of heat but didnt want to damage anything.they are bolts not studs with nuts so there arnt many threads exposed.none of them even budged.any suggestions would be apprieciated.i think about the pain i will have if i even snap one bolt never mine a few.thanks for the help,rob
 
Re: exhaust bolts wont move

The bolts are steel. The head is aluminum. You have the best chance of getting them loose if you ride the bike until it is up to normal operating temp and then spray the bolts with penetrating oil. Lset it sit for a couple hours, and run it again, each time letting the penetrating oil "wick" into the bolt threads. Aluminum expands more than steel when hot, so run the bike until it is hot and try removing the bolts while everything is still hot. Turn the bolts in, then out, in, out to try and break them free. An impact driver will help a lot. (hand impact driver that you strike with a hammer)
Do not use an air impact....BIG NO NO! I had to cut off the end of the correct allen wrench that fit the header bolts and then found a socket that fit the end of the allen. Then I had to scrounge through my toolbox to find an adapter to mate the 1/2 square drive on the impact to the 1/4" drive on the allen fitting socket. :-) Set the impact to loosen, strike it once. Then set it to tighten, strike it once. back to the loosen setting. You will be able to get them out, just be patient.

Earl

beeh200 said:
im dizzy from looking at old posts,cant find info.i want to put a header on my 1150 but the bolts that hold flanges to cyl. head will not move.i can feel the bolts stretching as i apply force.tried wd but i know they will snap if i force them.is there a trick or am i stuck with stock exhaust.i thought of heat but didnt want to damage anything.they are bolts not studs with nuts so there arnt many threads exposed.none of them even budged.any suggestions would be apprieciated.i think about the pain i will have if i even snap one bolt never mine a few.thanks for the help,rob
Click to expand...
 
Just be really careful, because you don't want a broken bolt if you can avoid it. Obviously don't force anything.

I suggest a high heat torch, such as acetylene. Heat the aluminium around the bolt for a minute or so (keep it moving, cause if you leave it in one spot for too long, it can start to hurt the aluminium). Then, with the flame still on it, carefully turn the bolt. The in and out method helps. Don't force it still or put too much pressure on it. Two people makes this easier, and obviously be really careful and use common sense with the flame and all.

That's what worked for me. Hope it helps!

--Tyler
 
I remember reading last spring that "PB Blaster" is infinitely better than many similar products (WD-40, I discovered, is actually considered to be terrible by many) and you can find it at Walmart for a couple of bucks.

I sprayed it on to each exhaust bolt thread and walked away ... The next day I did the same thing.

On the third day, the bolts came out as if I had just put them there, with no effort whatsoever. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it with my own eyes but it worked!

I like the candle wax idea too, but that assumes the engine runs (or you don't mind taking a chance with a torch). The bolts I removed came out of an engine that wasn't running, and to be honest it's possible the bolts had been removed before I acquired the bike, but it was still impressive!

Good Luck, and remember ... you can NOT be too patient with this!

Steve 8)
 
bolts

bolts

Do as earlfor says, also take a drift (metal) and a hammer and give them a tap on the head of each bolt then do as earl says, and repeat with a tap on each one don't get in a hurry cause it will cost a lot more in the end, and dont beat on them with the hammer and drift just a good tap will do
 
Re: bolts

Re: bolts

For a drift, my preference is a length of bronze rod. Copper or brass will also work well and not disfigure bolt/screw heads.

Earl

Gee-s-is said:
Do as earlfor says, also take a drift (metal) and a hammer and give them a tap on the head of each bolt then do as earl says, and repeat with a tap on each one don't get in a hurry cause it will cost a lot more in the end, and dont beat on them with the hammer and drift just a good tap will do
Click to expand...
 
I have often used wax when assembling things, especially in wood, but had never thought of its use in removing things.

It does make sense, as it is ALL light petroleum, and would work as described while hot, and persist as the metal cooled, so it would continue to lubricate, whereas many of the commercial loosening agents contain mostly solvent, which would instantly evaporate under the heat, and leave little or no lubricant behind.
 
I read about the paraffin trick in another thread and wondered - would the bolts be more likely to vibrate loose afterwards? Paraffin seems to cling pretty well.

Dave
 
Or, go the the auto parts store and buy a small bottle of anti seize. Never again frozen bolts. :-)

Earl


argonsagas said:
I have often used wax when assembling things, especially in wood, but had never thought of its use in removing things.

It does make sense, as it is ALL light petroleum, and would work as described while hot, and persist as the metal cooled, so it would continue to lubricate, whereas many of the commercial loosening agents contain mostly solvent, which would instantly evaporate under the heat, and leave little or no lubricant behind.
Click to expand...
 
thank you for responce

thank you for responce

thanks to everyone for the advice,i will be trying all the methods suggested.thanks again,rob
 
There is a new penetrating oil from Sea Foam. It is some really good stuff. I like it better than the PB Blaster. I used it as I reassembled my top end. It definitely made the bolts turn easier.
 
Brandon,

What's it called? Is it just "Sea Foam Penetrating Oil?" I have been very very impressed with the PB Blaster to date, so I'm wondering what specifically about this new stuff you like better? The difference between PB Blaster and WD-40 is like night and day -- is the Sea Foam stuff a similar jump to the PB Blaster?

Thanks in advance,
Steve 8)
 
jimcor beat me to the punch. I have used both, and the Sea Foam gave me better results. I have used several other Sea Foam products, and liked them all very well.
 
You can always use a heli -coil.

You can always use a heli -coil.

My CB came with screws that hold the exhaust on. One of the screws in mine was so stuck that I gave up on it. I know you have not broken your bolt yet but Mine seemed so frozen that I just drilled it out even before it snaped. I used small drill bits to start then worked up till the screw threads were all gone. I got an M8X1.25 Heli coil kit from Napa and stacked two Heli coils in the hole. After grinding off the excess of the top Heli coil it's almost an invisible repair. The motor is still out but I have already put anti seize in the threads.
 
The impact driver is a must. I can't believe how long I went without one. They took my seized exhaust bolts out real nice.
 
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