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Exhaust flange bolts

  • Thread starter Thread starter bbjumper
  • Start date Start date
B

bbjumper

Guest
Dear Forum,

Since I have completed the top overhaul on my G I can't keep the flange bolts torqued. I replaced all of the gaskets, bolts and washers when I put it back together and torqued to 10 ft. lbs. with a little anti seize. Now I need to re-torque around every 600 mi. or so. I can tell when their beginning to loosen up by the ticking noise after a cold stat up.

What's up, any ideas?

Thanks
 
I know that the manual says "6.5 to 10 lbs-ft.", but other 8mm bolts use torque values ranging from 15 to 19 lbs-ft., so try going just a little bit tighter.

.
 
Do you have fresh lock washers on the bolts?
 
1980GS1000E said:
Change to studs while you still can.
Click to expand...

I tap the threads 10 mm's deeper and use grade 12.9 studs with plenty of anti-seize on the studs.
Grade 10.9 nuts.
If either of them is going to strip, it would be the nuts. ;)

Eric
 
Thanks Guys,

Ed, used all new hardware and lock washers when it was re-assembled.

Eric, I agree, should have done that when the head was off. A project for another weekend. You think I should go 10 mm deeper in the head or just chase the threads with a tap?

Thanks
 
bbjumper said:
Thanks Guys,

Ed, used all new hardware and lock washers when it was re-assembled.

Eric, I agree, should have done that when the head was off. A project for another weekend. You think I should go 10 mm deeper in the head or just chase the threads with a tap?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Deeper is better. (also true with the ladies. ;))
More threads to share the load in the soft aluminum.

Eric
 
Going to thread-jack since I'll be replacing my bolts this coming off season. So rather than using bolts, some of you (Eric) add studs with nuts holding the headers on? Can someone post a picture so I'm clear on what you've done.

Why is that method, if I understand it right, better than bolts?
 
MAJikMARCer said:
Going to thread-jack since I'll be replacing my bolts this coming off season. So rather than using bolts, some of you (Eric) add studs with nuts holding the headers on? Can someone post a picture so I'm clear on what you've done.

Why is that method, if I understand it right, better than bolts?
Click to expand...
The thinking is that you are less likely to strip the threads out of the head when you use studs instead of bolts. 7981GS's post was very good.

That said, I have never stripped an thread in the exhaust port, but I've had more than one stud break off over the years. :( Anti-seize is your friend. A few drops of Milk of Magnesia on the threads also works quite well. (really!)

I wonder if OP bbjumper's problem was using soft crush-style exhaust gaskets? It would be nice to see a follow-up post on this.
 
MAJikMARCer said:
Going to thread-jack since I'll be replacing my bolts this coming off season. So rather than using bolts, some of you (Eric) add studs with nuts holding the headers on? Can someone post a picture so I'm clear on what you've done.

Why is that method, if I understand it right, better than bolts?
Click to expand...

Studs are better than bolts because they go in and out of the aluminum block only once, so you don't risk damaging/stripping threads in the head. This is why the oil filter has studs instead of bolts, so you are threading in and out of the case every time you change the filter.

You don't pull the exhaust nearly so often, but it can be helpful to pull pipes once in awhile to access the front of the engine, clean grime, get to the tach cable housing, etc.

Also, once the studs are in place, you have more room to tighten down the headers without worrying about the threads in the block. Every time I tighten my exhaust bolts I feel like Indiana Jones stealing that gold idol, waiting for that one bolt to snap. A few times, that has left me a bit loose on a header, so I have to revisit it and tighten it up more.
 
MAJikMARCer said:
So rather than using bolts, some of you (Eric) add studs with nuts holding the headers on? Can someone post a picture so I'm clear on what you've done.

Why is that method, if I understand it right, better than bolts?
Click to expand...

The only pic's that I could find.
The exhaust was not for this bike and was troublesome getting it to cooperate. ;)
(Windjammer fairing is why the hose clamps are there.)

DSC06671.jpg



DSC06672.jpg


Eric
 
Thanks guys. This helps a bunch. I thought this was what you were talking about but I wasn't sure. I'd rather ask the dumb question than remain ignorant. ;)

Are they pretty easy to install? Do you use thread lock so they stay in place well or is that an issue? How do you tighten them onto the head to start with?

I saw these and thought that their hex ends would make installation easy, but I'm guessing they are a lot more expensive:
RHN_ExtStuds.jpg
 
MAJikMARCer said:
Thanks guys. This helps a bunch. I thought this was what you were talking about but I wasn't sure. I'd rather ask the dumb question than remain ignorant. ;)

Are they pretty easy to install? Do you use thread lock so they stay in place well or is that an issue? How do you tighten them onto the head to start with?

I saw these and thought that their hex ends would make installation easy, but I'm guessing they are a lot more expensive:
RHN_ExtStuds.jpg
Click to expand...
Looks like they have a hex opening at the end,so it should be easy to install them.
 
Last edited:
You install studs by putting 2 nuts on one end and tighten (jam) them together. You then install the stud as if it were a bolt, using a wrench on the outer nut. Once you get it installed you hold the inner nut with a wrench and loosen the outer nut. Once they're un-jammed you can remove both nuts with your fingers.
 
NAPA stud kit

NAPA stud kit

they carry an exhaust stud kit that i believe is a usable size m8x1.0x55? that has 10 stud/nuts for about 13.00. picked one up the other day will dig out the part number and post. got the part# from another post on this site.
 
twodogs58 said:
they carry an exhaust stud kit that i believe is a usable size m8x1.0x55? that has 10 stud/nuts for about 13.00. picked one up the other day will dig out the part number and post. got the part# from another post on this site.
Click to expand...

Tap the blind holes all the way to the bottom and you still may have to shorten the studs to gain enough clearance for the flanges to clear the frame tubes.

Eric
 
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