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Extra black wire after I fooled w/ solenoid

  • Thread starter Thread starter robdsuzuki
  • Start date Start date
Thank you all. This is great, especially since of all the suzuki's I have owned in my life, this one is my favorite. Thanks for helping me get it back on line. i will work on it tonite. RD
 
I tried touching the starter wire directly to the pos terminal of the battery and it sparked. But it did not turn the engine. Just sparks. The ignition was off and the battery remained connected to everything. So I am not sure what that means. i didn't expect sparks. ALSO - when I touch the solenoid with screwdriver across both pos screws, nothing happens. No spark. Rob
 
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Bass Cliff: thanks for all the info. Is there a section in your website about how to pull the starter? I have a clymer manual. Do I have to pull the carbs, etc? Thanks Rob
 
Hey Rob, just sparks means the starter is bound up and needs rebuilding or replacing. I use an auto electric alternator/starter rebuild shop for mine. It cost me $92.00. To remove the starter, remove the cover first, then unhook the positive wire. Remove both mounting bolts, pull the starter back and up to the left. It'll then pull out of the hole and you can pull it out of the left side. I actually left the positive cable hooked up when I pulled it out. I did pull the neg cable from the battery though so that I wouldn't have any sparks.
 
No carbs make it much easier, then again I have pods so it's not such a big deal for me. Sounds like you have two issues if it's sparking but not starting when it's directly connected, but not when you touch the solenoid posts together. Not a very scientific test, but spark technically equals power.

I'm guessing there's an issue with the positive wire to the solenoid.
 
Thanks you guys. I am concerned because if there is no spark at the solenoid, but I hear it clacking when i touch the start button, I don't understand how that is. But I do not get spark at solenoid. I will clean and trace wires again. I guess i could have 2 issues coincidentally at the same time.
 
Is that a heavy black wire?
If so, is it the wire that comes from the starter and should be on the second solenoid terminal?
 
Matchless:
no . it is a fairly thin wire. I need to trace it agin and then pull the starter. i will update tomorrow. thanks - rd
 
I just read through all this and can't remember ... did you describe the wires you have connected to your solenoid?

Use your meter or a test light for a quick test. Set the meter to read 12 volts DC. Connect your black wire to a good ground (could be chassis or battery -). Touch the red lead to one of the solenoid terminals, you should have power, even with the key OFF. Touch the red lead to the other large terminal on the solenoid, turn the key ON press the starter button. Your meter should show voltage. If you see all that, then it's good so far.

Do you have a large wire connected to that second terminal? Yeah, it's probably black, but it's NOT a ground wire, it's the wire that powers the starter.

.
 
Hi, Steve: I just tested the solenoid as you suggested and I DO get voltage on both attempts (laft and right posts). Then I held the MM black lead to the (-) battery post and the red lead to the starter (+) wire connected to it. When I hit the start button, I get a reading of about 9. So I guess there is power getting to the starter and it must be bound up inside? Or maybe 9 is too low? I will take starter off tomorrow and fool with it. Thank you. Rob
 
If you measure the voltage across the battery when pushing the starter button and also get 9 volts, that is telling you one of two things:
1. your battery is shot
2. your starter is locked up and REALLY drawing the battery down

One quick test:
Connect jumper cables to a NON-RUNNING car. You are only going to use the extra cranking capacity of its larger battery.
Try that same test. If the bike starts easily, replace your battery. If the starter still has problems turning, replace the starter.

.
 
I did that test, Steve. Nothing happened. So I pulled the starter. Trying to find someone local to rebuild it. thanks rd
 
I was thinking it would be a $300 part, so I was in denial.:) Hate to ask you another question, but in Louisville, there isn't a whole lot of places that rebuild. Gotta buy a rebuilt - $200. thank you, all. Very much.
 
Phhaa, unless your armature is fried, it is quick, easy and cheap enough to rebuild it yourself.
Strip it down, clean it all up nice and clean inside and out.
A few bucks for some new brushes and maybe some bushes, a dab of new grease on the bushes, put it all back together and it will be spinning like new.
 
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