Extremely frustrated

[Toasty]

I noticed the turn signals acting a bit funky today on the way home and had a bad feeling. I checked did some checks and the stator is going bad AGAIN. It's only charging 13.5v with the headlight off and 5000rpm, and it was at 14.8 just a few weeks ago. There's resistance from the stator leads to the ground, a very small amount but it doesn't matter.


What did I do to anger the GS gods??? Why do my goddamn stators keep going out? WHYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY . Everything is clean and wired correctly what is going on??? I have a long commute where I'm going 70+ for an hour and half, but even this cheap Caltric stator should last longer then this. The one I put in originally lasted about a 1,000 miles and this one is going out at around a 1,000 again . The oil is good, it's not running lean. I'm at my wits end.

Will a Ricks stator cure this or have I just been cursed by the moto Gods? Sorry to create another thread, I feel like I've read and researched every post about stators since the beginning of the internet.

 

[Nessism]

What kind of R/R do you have, and did you rewire the charging system to remove the out and back stator wire loop, as well as make sure the power path circuit is low resistance?

Oh, and I'd get a Ricks's stator.

 

[Toasty]

The stator is wired directly to the R/R (Shindingen SH532-12), the r/r ground is wired to the battery ground, the r/r output is wired to the battery (with 15amp fuse inline), the sense wire is attached to the switched 12v. I went through before and cleaned all the connections the best I could and used dielectric grease.

The only connection I haven't gone over a 100 times is the sense wire. It looks to be in order, and hooked to the switched 12v. If it's hooked up incorrectly it would be overcharging and would blow the inline fuse (which is fine) right?

I'm afraid that even if I get a Ricks stator it's just gonna burn that one up too.

 

[Nessism]

The stator is wired directly to the R/R (Shindingen SH532-12), the r/r ground is wired to the battery ground, the r/r output is wired to the battery (with 15amp fuse inline), the sense wire is attached to the switched 12v. I went through before and cleaned all the connections the best I could and used dielectric grease.

The only connection I haven't gone over a 100 times is the sense wire. It looks to be in order, and hooked to the switched 12v. If it's hooked up incorrectly it would be overcharging and would blow the inline fuse (which is fine) right?

I'm afraid that even if I get a Ricks stator it's just gonna burn that one up too.

Did you see Jim's Compufire R/R threads? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=167939&highlight=compufire Different R/R technology which protects the stator. He convinenced me, and a few others, to spring the $$$ (about $175).

 

[Guest]

I'll second the CompuFire, and don't waste money on a budget stator. I got a year out of my toasty stock stator with the CompuFire before it finished burning through the blackened varnish insulation (that I used anyway against good advise). Replaced it with a quality stator and have been trouble free as far as charging goes.

 

[Toasty]

Im definitely considering a compufire unit if its all its cracked up to be. I'm really getting sick of replacing stators... Although now I'm 100% confident I could replace it on the side of the road in about 10 minutes .

Are there any stators in particular that are recommended for the compufire? If I read it correctly it's easier on the stator at high RPM because it can dump the excess voltage better?

 

[tom203]

After you replaced stator and R/R, did you check output to make sure it was good (neither high or low) ? Going direct to battery with R/R output is OK, but 15 amp fuse is marginal in this hookup.

 

[Toasty]

The output was fine when I put in the new stator and r/r. What should I be running inline? I searched a lot and found that to run a 15 amp, what would be better?

 

[Nessism]

Im definitely considering a compufire unit if its all its cracked up to be. I'm really getting sick of replacing stators... Although now I'm 100% confident I could replace it on the side of the road in about 10 minutes .

Are there any stators in particular that are recommended for the compufire? If I read it correctly it's easier on the stator at high RPM because it can dump the excess voltage better?

My understanding is with a regular shunt R/R all the excessive charging system current is returned to the stator, where it's converted to heat. With a series type R/R (Compufire) the extra power is kept away from the stator so it runs much cooler.

Posplayr authored a bunch of different threads on this topic. If you search on "compufire" you will have lots of good educational material available at your disposal.

The output was fine when I put in the new stator and r/r. What should I be running inline? I searched a lot and found that to run a 15 amp, what would be better?

I've run a 15A fuse in that application, however some people here have popped them so a 20A wouldn't hurt.

 

[koolaid_kid]

The output was fine when I put in the new stator and r/r. What should I be running inline? I searched a lot and found that to run a 15 amp, what would be better?

I put a 20A in my GS. I did some calculations (various bikes will be different) and found a 15A to be marginal. If you have a short (which is what a fuse protects against) a 20A will blow just as quickly as a 15A. However, if you are passing, say, 230 Watts, a 15A is really too small.

 

[Toasty]

Hmm, okay. I'll swap it out for a 20A when I do the electrics again.

I guess the next things to get are a heavy duty Ricks stator ($140), Compufire ($175) and new fuses. The GS is lucky I like it so much, I've been putting way more money into this thing then I ever planned.

 

[Missile99]

Toasty, when you get this one apart give us some more pictures. 1000 mile intervals...that sucks. You're still charging some I see. Right now, what do the three connections look like? I read before that the wires were really, really hot.

What was your AC output voltage when this newest one was installed and what is it now?

I'm throwing out what I can. Be careful when using dielectric grease on the direct connection. You're obviously not a candidate for soldering. Use maybe a very, very little bit on the metal connections but more at the back ends to seal out moisture. Does anything on the generator rotor seem strange? Could someone have tried to take it off before and warped it in the process, maybe hit it too hard with a mallet? Everything tight?

 

[Doldrums]

I put a 20A in my GS.

Can you just clarify where you are putting this 20A fuse? Between R/R and battery?

 

[Toasty]

Toasty, when you get this one apart give us some more pictures. 1000 mile intervals...that sucks. You're still charging some I see. Right now, what do the three connections look like? I read before that the wires were really, really hot.

What was your AC output voltage when this newest one was installed and what is it now?

I'm throwing out what I can. Be careful when using dielectric grease on the direct connection. You're obviously not a candidate for soldering. Use maybe a very, very little bit on the metal connections but more at the back ends to seal out moisture. Does anything on the generator rotor seem strange? Could someone have tried to take it off before and warped it in the process, maybe hit it too hard with a mallet? Everything tight?

Yea it's charging enough to get around without the headlight on, if I was only putting around town it would probably last months in the condition it's in.

I don't have pictures of the newest stator, I haven't taken it off yet but here's some of my last "new" stator. The PO put one on not too long before I bought it, and it looked just like this one (more fried and melted though, it actually burned through the copper wires coming off the stator that turn into output wires). The rotor looks fine, nothing is broken or bent but I'll go over it again.

I didn't check AC voltage on it yesterday, I did the resistance check and left it at that. I can do that when I get home. Also, what would be the dangers of using dielectric grease? I know current doesn't pass through it but there's solid metal on metal contact in the connections.

I'm pushing it pretty hard with the riding I do, and with the extra current being shunted to the already hot stator is probably why it keeps failing. With a higher quality stator, compufire and an oil spray hopefully it'll be bulletproof.

 

[koolaid_kid]

Can you just clarify where you are putting this 20A fuse? Between R/R and battery?

Exactly. Went to the Auto Parts store and got a weatherproof inline fuse holder for AGC fuses. Soldered and shrink tubing on the connections. Placed it where it was easy to reach "just in case". Carried a spare 20A fuse "just in case". Worked like a charm.

 

[Missile99]

Can you just clarify where you are putting this 20A fuse? Between R/R and battery?

Yes. Try adding one that's 5 amps over your main. That should account for the average battery charging amps. I'm still with the "sticking with the stock split configuration" group.


Toasty,

I know this is very disappointing. I was reading your "what kiils stators?" posts. I'll check later to see what you find. One more check is for any damaged insulation on the wires from the R/R to the stator connections.

 

[Missile99]

Oops koolaid_kid. I tend to delay on my posts if it's time for another cup of coffee (see avatar) and miss what somebody else writes.

 

[Guest]

Dielectric grease does not conduct, but any insulation pressed thin enough conducts, so it's a moot point on connections. Good stuff use it on all connections, it inhibits moisture and corrosion, and will not inhibit current flow where it needs to. The beauty is that it can be used on multiple close connections without bleeding current over between the connections.

 

[Toasty]

Okay so I just tested the AC voltage through the stator legs. At 5,000 rpm it's only putting out 48-50 volts and one leg is totally dead. I also noticed when revving it from idle to 5,000 on one leg it spiked up to 108 volts for a split second and then stopped at 50V, maybe that's just a multimeter error though.

 

[Guest]

If the stator blackens, consider it toast. I was lucky and got a year out of one before it went but it is on it's way out and will fail. Make sure to use Loctite on the screws, or they will back out and cause you trouble later.