When you are dealing with Lexan (Poly Carbonite) you will need to remember that it scratches very easily. IF you do get any fine scratches, you can get them out with a blow dryer or heating gun. BUT, practice on a scratch pc first as the PC will bubble when over heated!!!
The only thing I didnt hear about was how to contour the new windshield....
I apologize....forgot about that completely.
For the GK shaping was not necessary.
This is because with 1/8 inch thickness the new part may well conform to the shape of the platform on which it is mounted...in this case a pre-existing fairing, and the upper part is the same size as the bottom, or narrower than the bottom.
But it DOES have to be bent carefully.
Once cut out, I fitted it at the middle, with a loose bolt. then bent it to one side, used longer than standard bolts and then the other side, slowly bending it into conformity with the fairing mate surface.
Once bent into approximate shape, I switched to the original bolts and again tightened it as you would torque an engine part....a little, then move to another bolt, then go back, etc, until it was finally locked it into place.
Any additional "cushion" used can be removed after all positioning has been completed. Then you remove one bolt at a time, and replace it before doing another.
Note
It is VERY important that the surface which accepts the bolts be cushioned to avoid cracking. In this case "cushion" means using a rubber disc between the bolt/washer and the plastic surface to spread the pressure over a larger area.
With the Bandit I could not use that method because the windshield is wider than the mount area, so I planned on bending the plastic.
That was fun because it was cold in the garage.
It may look easy, and it is, once you have a sure means of holding the work in place, and at the correct angle.
Basically, you need a frame in which to place the part and the frame has to be flexible, plus sturdy enough to maintain rigidity.
A wood frame with three sets of hinges will do nicely. (that makes four pieces for the frame). This can be bent to accommodate whatever basic angle you need, and it can be tied with a strap.
You have to design you own frame, but DO allow enough thickness for the outer pieces to permit a vertical piece to be nailed /screwed there and then a small piece be added on top of it in an "L" configuration to hold the edge of the plastic when the material is bent and to keep it in place.
If you are bending "cold" the L section (and the plastic sheet) goes on the inside of the bend.
If you are bending with heat, the L section goes on the outside.....more on that.
In some cases the pressure alone will permit the plastic to reach the desired shape, but you may have to go a bit farther than the original shape, as there will be some return, as the plastic tries to unflex.
In other cases, you may need to use heat to get the necessary shape.
I have tried shaping it by bending the plastic to suit, and then heating it with a heat gun, and this works. Hopefully yu have a gun that has a heat range, instead of On-OFF.
The results depend on how well you use the gun, as movement cannot be stopped or the surface will overheat wherever you pause, and may distort..
Buy a piece that is larger than you need for the bike, and after your size is cut out, use the scrap part for practice. You NEED to practice a bit before doing the actual work.
It might be safer to use a hair dryer, but a fair amount of heat is required, and not all will do the job.
MOST important:
If you try using the frame method
with heat, note that the frame goes on the INSIDE of the curve, so you need to use a cloth or something fairly soft to avoid having the plastic tough the frame and scratching the surface, and to act as insulation and avoid cold points, which affect the bending of the material.
When bending cold the blanket performs the same function, but insulation is unnecessary.
Having the frame on the inside of the curve when heating is essential. All of the material must be heated to permit even bending but the heat must be applied to the outer surface of the material as the bending is done because this is where the stretching will occur.
