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Faulty fuse box??

  • Thread starter Thread starter cowb0y
  • Start date Start date
C

cowb0y

Guest
When I bought this '80 GS1100L it was running. When I went back to pick it up, it wasnt. I did get some money back, but decided to take the bike and I have been trouble shooting ever since.
The ignition switch is burnt, which lead me to the rectifier (which I replaced with a new one) and ohmed out the coils, signal generator and stator; which where all with in tolerance. I have been trying to test the ignitor unit (transistor box) and cant seem to get a spark out of #3 or #4, so I think I am doing something wrong. Is there another way to test it?
After a new wiring harness, I ohmed the ignition wires which lead me to the fuse box. I took it apart and found corrosion and burnt plastic. I am also not getting spark again, after we got the bike running (thank the good Lord! [-o<). So I checked the rectifier and sure enough, its bad. Open across all wires. What is going on? What could cause another rectifier to burn? The stator shown 1.4 ohm across all wires, signal generator read 311 ohms, and the coils gave 3.4 and 3.5 ohms. When I check across the fuse box, I get 1.4 ohms when there is only a short wire.
The guy I bought it from, wired a push switch right on top of the starter and I am tired of it getting hot. The start switch functions (open when not pushed and closed when pushed), so I am guessing the fuses box is messing everything up. But what could burn up the brand new rectifier?#-o
I am confused and already too deep into this bike to quit.:cry: I appreciate this website and all the open helpful insight that is shared. Keep up the good work.
:confused:
 
Good thing you got the bike cheaper because the stator might need to be replaced. Touch the meter leads together and take note of what it reads when shorted. Now measure the stator resistance again. Subtract what the meter said when the leads were together to get the true resistance of the stator leads. If any are over 0.8 ohms, it is probably bad.

The RR can damage the stator by shorting out, then all hell breaks loose. The fuse box connections should be close to 0 , 1.4 ohms will generate a lot of heat and you see what happens.

Start with cleaning the connections and take note of what wires go where and the condition they are in. Replace the damaged bullet connectors with new ones, some like to use flat connectors but the important thing is NEW connectors.

Measure the resistance across these connections and switches, eventually you'll get them cleaned up and be an expert on your electrical system.

I replied to your PM about the RR, I'll see what I can do for you,.
 
Thanks, I am looking forward to rechecking the stator. Already got one on order after reading your post. I do truly appreciate this website and guys like you. Thanks.
cowb0y
 
Hi Mr. cowb0y,

What is the AC voltage output of your stator? I've had stators look good while performing the passive resistance checks, but then fail with the active output test. Are all the connections clean in your charging system? I took all of mine apart and scrubbed them with a small wire brush, even the ground on the back of the motor. That one is hard to get to with my big mitts. I replaced the bullet connectors with spade connectors. Keep us informed. Check my website for any info that might be helpful.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Bike doesnt run, no spark, so no way to check the AC output (I think). Thats why I have been checking resistance. I have checked out your website and its a great resource for me. I have shared some of that info with my buds. Is a bad stator the only thing that can cause the R/R to go bad?
 
You can do a continuity check of the stator to get a little indication if it's fried or not. If you just need a fuse box I have one you can have.

With the motor off and the tester set to check for continuity check each wire against the other two. You should get a tone if the stator is okay as far as any breaks. You can test for shorts by testing each with one probe on the wire and the other on the frame. If you get a tone or meter reaction you have a short.

An r/r can go south all on it's own. Most often they end up charging too hot.

You can check your regulator/rectifier by following the Suzuki procedure below.

With the r/r removed from the bike, fins pointing up and terminals facing you, the terminals from left to right will be A, B, C, D, and E.
Negative probe on A and positive on B you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on C you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on D you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on E you should get 50-70 ohms.

Then switch the negative probe to terminal B and place the positive probe on A, C, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.
Switch negative probe to C and positive to A, B, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to D and positive to A, B, then C, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to E, positive to A, B, C, and D should give no reading.

The numbers have to be within range. It doesn't take much of an out of range reading to lead to the wrong output.
 
When you say "the tester set to check for continuity" do you mean ohm check? The diode checker part of my tested is faulty so I get no sound. Thats why i picked it up for $15 brand new at retail $39. However, I did measure resistance across all leads against eachother lead and got 1.4 ohms. I plan to check everything to ground as you suggested. I didnt think of a short.
If you want to get rid of your fuse box, I will take it. I am looking into rebuilding this one, possibly turning it into a spade fuse box, but if that turns south, I will give ya a few bucks for shipping and the part. Thanks for the insight.

cowb0y
 
cowb0y said:
When you say "the tester set to check for continuity" do you mean ohm check? The diode checker part of my tested is faulty so I get no sound. Thats why i picked it up for $15 brand new at retail $39. However, I did measure resistance across all leads against eachother lead and got 1.4 ohms. I plan to check everything to ground as you suggested. I didnt think of a short.
If you want to get rid of your fuse box, I will take it. I am looking into rebuilding this one, possibly turning it into a spade fuse box, but if that turns south, I will give ya a few bucks for shipping and the part. Thanks for the insight.

cowb0y
Click to expand...
You should have some kind of setting on your tester that will give you a tone when complete a circuit. You can use anything from a light circuit to a buzzer just to find out if the circuit is completed. A 9 volt battery and a buzzer or LED from Radio Shack would work for testing continuity.
 
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