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Faulty R/R and/or stator?

  • Thread starter Thread starter sporty
  • Start date Start date
S

sporty

Guest
Recently I have been having problems starting my bike after riding it for a few days. The battery goes flat and I have to recharge it at home every week or so. So I did some tests this weekend:

Motorcycle: Suzuki GS500K6 (2006)
Battery: YB10L-B2 (12V, 10 AH, 160 CCA)

No leakage from the battery. No current is drained from the battery when the bike if off.

Battery Voltage Inspection:
Power off (cold): 12.6V
Power on @2000RPM: 14.4V
Power on @5000RPM: 13.4V
Power off: 13.8V
Power off (after 1 hr): 13.2V

Battery load testing @100A:
Load ON: 9.2V
Load OFF: 12.35V

Fully charged battery load testing @100A:
Load OFF: 13.66V
Load ON: 9.7V
Load OFF: 12.3V

Generator coil resistance:
1 ohm across all 3 yellow lead wires

No Load Performance test @2000RPM: 0.4, 0.4, 0.9 VAC between the 3 leads from the stator
No Load Performance test @5000RPM: 0.8, 2.9, 3.8 VAC between the 3 leads from the stator

R/R voltage @2000RPM: 14.3
R/R voltage @2000RPM: 13.7

R/R diode test:
Infinite resistance between all leads in any direction. It is 60C hot when the engine is on.

It should be the stator and/or R/R, isn't it? It seems R/R is fried. I ordered new stator and R/R from here.
Should be delivered soon. Not sure if I should replace them both or just try R/R first..
 
Most likely a wiring harness issue. 14.4 volts @ 2000 rpm is excellent performance.

I suggest cleaning up your wiring. Tons of threads in the archives detail what to do. For example: eliminate the stator wire out and back wiring loop to the head light switch (that isn't there for the US market), and improve the R/R grounds.

As for those parts you bought, I recommend finding a late model Honda R/R off ebay, hopefully the FET type. They are the top of the heap as far as shunting R/R's go, and can be had for $50 or less off ebay if you shop carefully.
 
Nessism said:
Most likely a wiring harness issue. 14.4 volts @ 2000 rpm is excellent performance.

I suggest cleaning up your wiring. Tons of threads in the archives detail what to do. For example: eliminate the stator wire out and back wiring loop to the head light switch (that isn't there for the US market), and improve the R/R grounds.

As for those parts you bought, I recommend finding a late model Honda R/R off ebay, hopefully the FET type. They are the top of the heap as far as shunting R/R's go, and can be had for $50 or less off ebay if you shop carefully.
Click to expand...

what he said, sounds like just bad connections
 
Greetings and Salutations!!

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. sporty,

The Stator Papers would apply to your bike also. Check the supplemental documentation in the electrical section of my little website. Now let me dump a TON if information on you, and share some GS lovin'. :D

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.
big_hi.gif


If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....
hat1.gif


Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. This is what NOT to do: Top 10 Newbie Mistakes. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

carpet.jpg


Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike! :D

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
I was going to make a thread on the same thing, mind if i add to this one rather than make another one?
 
Thanks sporty.

I've been having the same problems, i've been trying to test the resistance of the regulator but i cant get any readings from it at all.

The Stator readings are fine, but the battery is only charging at 12.5v at 5000rpm.

Any ideas?
 
Woodsy said:
Thanks sporty.

I've been having the same problems, i've been trying to test the resistance of the regulator but i cant get any readings from it at all.

The Stator readings are fine, but the battery is only charging at 12.5v at 5000rpm.

Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Yes, check the Stator Papers. It will hand walk you though the tests you need to perform to find the problem.
 
I've done the stator paper tests, but just found the fault chart... will see what i find tomorrow
 
Last edited:
From here: http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfaq.htm

Step 1 - preliminary test of the stator
...
Detach the three wires coming from the stator...
Click to expand...
Ahh, I didn't disconnect the yellow wires from the R/R before measuring the voltage while the bike was running. I am not sure if this is important but maybe that's the reason why the voltage was so low across the wires (less than 4V instead of 75V). I will give it a try tomorrow.
 
make sure you don't have any pinched wires under the sprocket cover... it gave me charging problems until i fixed it... stupid PO!
 
Did all the tests, the stator is putting out heaps of power 100ac at 5000rpm on each wire, at this stage it is pin pointing the voltage regulator as when i do the diode test on it i get no readings with + and - as per instructions, but if i reverse the multimeter wires i do get readings and i put an extra earth on the voltage reg and it got hot instantly.
 
Thanks Nessism,

I replaced the stator connectors and the standard fuse holder with a blade type and it will now charge at 13.6v at idle, but if you give it any revs it will drop down to 13v
 
OK, I measured the voltage across the three wires from the stator: zero at any RPM! But the weirdest thing is that there is a spark between the wires if I short them. And when I connect the stator wires back to the R/R, the voltage from the battery goes from 9V to 12.2V. The only explanation I can think of is the voltage too chaotic to be measured properly by multimeter :confused:
 
sporty said:
OK, I measured the voltage across the three wires from the stator: zero at any RPM! But the weirdest thing is that there is a spark between the wires if I short them. And when I connect the stator wires back to the R/R, the voltage from the battery goes from 9V to 12.2V. The only explanation I can think of is the voltage too chaotic to be measured properly by multimeter :confused:
Click to expand...

Are you using the AC setting for the stator wires? It is not DC.
 
Woodsy said:
and i put an extra earth on the voltage reg and it got hot instantly.
Click to expand...

Something not quite right here.
The R/R needs a good ground and positive to the battery terminals. Even if the wires do not go directly to the battery there should be no voltage drop over these wires at load, meaning no resistance because of poor connections.
If an additional earth results in any changes, then I would think the earthing is suspect. Test it by running a direct ground to the battery.
 
Woodsy said:
Thanks Nessism,

I replaced the stator connectors and the standard fuse holder with a blade type and it will now charge at 13.6v at idle, but if you give it any revs it will drop down to 13v
Click to expand...

this usually means a bad connection between R/R(+) and Battery(+). If it is bad enough it will also make the R/R HOT.
 
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