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Filter Housing Cover

frosty5011

Forum Mentor
Does anyone have experience in making a cover for their airbox housing? I am missing the cover off of mine ('82 1100e). You can't buy just the cover, only the entire housing assembly from the distributors.

So, I wanted to see if anyone had any tips as far as making one, or if maybe someone had one I could borrow, so that I can get the exact dimensions and make one myself. I know this cover is identical for '82 1100E, '82 1000S, or 82/83 750T. (Or if anyone has a spare, please see my post in the PARTS WANTED section).

ADDED: Just found out that a '78 GS1000 cover will also fit, so, I gather the '79 will also.

cover.jpg
 
If your choice is to make one it should be fairly easy.

Get a large cereal box and cut off one side.

Trim the piece to exactly fit the edge surrounding the opening on your air box. (outside edge.)


Search in the kitchen for wax paper. Cut a piece to match the template you just made (above)

Cut a piece of fiberglass cloth....the woven type of cloth....to fit.

Now find some liquid resin and the appropriate hardener.

Mix up the needed amount, as per directions.

Place the template on the wax paper, cover it with the cloth, and liberally cover the cloth with liquid resin.

While it sets and hardens, find some metal pieces for the next step.

Your original cover had tabs to hold it in place, so now you must find a couple of pieces of metal that will serve as the tabs to hold down your new cover.

Whatever you use must be long enough to fit into the fibreglass sandwich you are making, and be quite firm when in place. A single strip that runs right across would not be a bad idea, as it will add to the rigidity.

Now that the resin has hardened completely, peel away the wax paper and file down the edges of the new cover.

Cut another piece or fibreglass...this time just slightly larger, so that it will cover the edge of the original, plus 1/8 inch all around.

Mix another batch of resin.

Get a larger piece of wax paper.

Place the new cover on the wax paper, and grab your measuring tape.

Measure accurately where they should go, then place the metal strips in place on the new cover. Make any needed bends in the metal before taking this step.

Liberally cover the now-set cover and the metal strip(s) with liquid resin and place the second piece of cloth on top, being careful to position it correctly.

Let it set.

You now have a fibreglass sandwich with metal tabs

Check all measurements and check for flex....you want very litle to none, and two layers may not be sufficient to give the rigidity you need.

If not, invert the new piece, and add another layer, using the methods above, always filing and/or sanding the edges between layers. Putting the third layer under the tabs adds to the overall rigidity, and thus the ability of the piece to maintain downward pressure when the tabs are locked in place.

Another layer beneath the tabs will further improve the ridigity, but, unless you plan on using a great deal of downward pressure to hold the cover in place, you are done with three.

File smooth and you have a nice, new, well-fitting cover.


Note......the resin is only placed on the template and not on top of the cloth in the first step. This leaves the top appearing slightly dry, or spotty when it is done. It is supposed to be that way.


In the second step, the piece is entirely covered, so all those pores and spots are taken care of, but the second piece of cloth will again not have enough resin to become smooth and glossy on the upper surface.

This will take a final coat, and for that you use just enough resin to cover lightly. Do it with a small brush, and don't even think of cleaning the brush afterwards.
 
The cover on my airbox is made out of a sheet of aluminium, cut to size and bent over at the edges by about 45 degrees, which gives it extra rigidity.

Mike.
 
tfb said:
The cover on my airbox is made out of a sheet of aluminium, cut to size and bent over at the edges by about 45 degrees, which gives it extra rigidity.

Mike.

I was originally thinking about doing something like that, or making one with a piece of plexiglass, with a slight groove routered/routed on it to fit well, and riveting a metal tab on it to fit into the slot.
 
Ditto on the aluminum sheet. It can be bought at lowes or home depot. I cut two exactly the same and used a little JB weld to stick together then used a ball peen hammer and a 4x4 to bend the sides properly. You can cut it so a tab is there to fit the small bracket in the front of the box and two tabs for the bolts in the rear and just drill holes in the sheet. Also added some two sided tape and felt on the inside lip to get a slightly tighter fit.
 
Depending on the state of tune of your engine, you may find that a lid that doesn't seal too tightly is in fact a good thing; the stock-standard filter-housing breather hole has been reported by some to be overly restrictive at higher rpm, ie. not able to supply enough air when things are on the boil. So all I'm saying is, a lid which keeps the weather out but which admits extra air could be a good thing. :wink:

Mike.
 
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