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Filthy Rich, don't want to be!

  • Thread starter Thread starter nert
  • Start date Start date
N

nert

Guest
82 GS1100L runs very rich. CV carbs.

What is the EXACT specifications for ALL the jets in these Carbs.

Fuel mileage about 30mpg. Spark plugs are always black. The vertical mixture screws are set at 1/4 turn or less. (otherwise so rich engine won't idle). If i blip the throttle at idle (response is very quick), i get black smoke shooting out the exhaust. Idles "heavy" can't lean it out. Inducing an intake leak (vacuum line) speeds RPM.

Choke valves are closed. Vacuum line is not sucking fuel from petcock. Cold start i use choke, but must remove quickly, and adding choke to warm engine will stall it. Carbs are whislte clean inside. I am new to bike, has been the way since i have had it. Stock engine, no intake/exhaust mods.

thanks
 
since i have owened it, couple months, previous history not known!
 
Tell us more about the engine, does it have an aftermarket exhaust? Pod filters? is the petcock leaking? are you operating it in the'prime' setting on the petcock? :twisted:
 
The choke plungers could be blocked or partially unscrewed, thus left open. Your idle mixture sounds way too rich, so I would concentrate on that. Even if someone supplies you with the correct jet sizes, that doesn't mean that they are working properly. I have seen quite a few jets drilled oversize.
 
now we are starting to cook. So the thing has been rich since you have it??? Have you done anything to try and correct the problem yet???
 
NO modifications to intake or exhaust.
Petcock is not leaking.
I run the petcock in "ON", not "PRIME" not "RESERVE"
Choke plungers are seated.

I HAVE: check ignition "spark" to make sure it was not a spark thing. Coils measure good, both primary and secondary resisitance is within spec. An old Snap-On coil tester shows me that actual spark is about 8-10K which i understand is normal for these coils.

I removed the carbs, did a thoro cleaning. They were very clean inside. Readjusted the floats. They were low in the measurement range, (meaning high fuel level). I readjusted to the extreme high of the specification (meaning low fuel level) in an attempt to lean everything out.
Runs a little smoother, but still very rich. Can't go no more than 1/4 to 1/2 turn on mixture screws.
 
Did you say how many miles are on ther bike and if you checked the compression. Is it running rich on all the cylinders??
 
Ok great information there...assuming the air filter is not clogged severely or such, I would first go with making sure the ignition spark is bright blue. 10kv is not alot, and if the 10k is a ohm measurement it is too much, the caps should ohm out at 5k. that out of the way, i would still check float valve really good, the GS is not known to have strong ones, they leak by easily. I am wondering if someone else had goten into them and re-jetted for an exhaust or something and sold before they installed it. Never know. check the chock adjustment also, it is an enrichment type and if adjusted wrong or stuck ( cable moves, choke rod does not) it will dump fuel and cause what you are describing. we will kick this.... :twisted:
 
12,000 miles on the clock
compression about 125lbs, #2 cylinder, the richest, about 110
All cylinders are rich!

10kv is the spark output, not the resistance reading.
a standard automotive coil is good for about, 30kv to 45kv.
I read in this forum, somewhere 10kv is normal for a GS coil and Dyna coils are good for 30kv.
Choke "plungers" are moving in completely.
My original question asked for stock OEM jet sizes. Since i am 99% sure everything is "right" with adjustment and no malfunctions exist, i wonder if someone has not re-jetted.
 
So, where do i get exact stock jet specifications?
Where do i get jets, needles, fuel metering screw, parts, etc for these CV carbs?
 
Jet needles

Jet needles

Have you checked the position of the jet needles? If a previous owner had the carbs disassembled they could have moved the needles up by adjusting the circlip, or by installing them incorrectly. I believe that most situations have the jet needle circlip in second notch from the top, and the assembly as follows:

From the top of the needle as it sits in the assembled and installed carb
spacer
circlip
washer
spring



SV
 
sc650
I had read (in this forum) that the needles in the slides of the CV style carb was not adjustable and were fixed into one position. Do you know that they are. Its sems dificult to get exact information.
thanks for the reply.
 
nert said:
sc650
I had read (in this forum) that the needles in the slides of the CV style carb was not adjustable and were fixed into one position. Do you know that they are. Its sems dificult to get exact information.
thanks for the reply.
Click to expand...
If you re read the mans post it will tell you that the non adjustable needles can be thrown out of wack by someone??? putting them together improperly.
Information is not hard to get but one can not just whistle and expect answers :lol:
 
I had the same problems and my bike was really out of time. Have you tried timing the bike yet?
 
I'm glad to see this post, because I'm having the exact same problem. Please continue with the advice.

Terry
 
I checked timing. not sure which marks are supposed to be aligned. It is near "marks" for 1-4 and 2-3.
Is not the timing "none adjustable" too with electronic ignition? If i understand correctly, the "signal generator" signals the igniter and the igniter controls the ignition coils as to when to fire. The ohm reading for each signal generator is correct. Can an igniter fail with incorrect timing yet still operate seemingly okay?
 
needles

needles

nert said:
sc650
I had read (in this forum) that the needles in the slides of the CV style carb was not adjustable and were fixed into one position. Do you know that they are. Its sems dificult to get exact information.
thanks for the reply.
Click to expand...

A-HA!! So there are subtle differences between the Canadian and US models. The Carbs on both '80s bike that I have , have jet needles with 4 notches on them. This allows one to adjust the midrange behaviour of the bike. There is also easy access to the pilot screw, allowing adjustment of the idls mixture.

And Scotty is also correct -- check that the needles are assembled correctly. the difference could be as much as 5mm if assembly is incorrect.

SV
 
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