Final buffing of my tank and covers

[Guest]

I plan on doing this to my bike over the winter but that's not what this post is about.

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

I want to know what to use to buff it out after. Not the buffer itself ( I plan on using a randon orbit unit) but the pads to use. I see foam ones and lambs wool ones. I see different textures etc. What is the best thing to use with the Turtle wax Polishing Compound I plan on using?

Paul

 

[OhioEric]

I plan on doing this to my bike over the winter ...

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1


Paul

...that is a tempting idea, for sure...

 

[Mark M]

...that is a tempting idea, for sure...

Since I have a very cosmetically *ahem* "challenged" 1100E waiting for paint, tempting is an understatement.

Maybe I will have the first Tremclad 1100E on the forum if I hurry!

Edit - Awesome find, nasty, thanks for sharing that.

Mark

 

[Guest]

You're welcome and here's something new. They are now recommending this paint as a better and more chemical resistant choice for bikes and cars. Haven't tried it yet but I will this winter.

http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/

Look for Brightsides paint. It's $39.95 a litre here in Canada

Paul

 

[Mark M]

You're welcome and here's something new. They are now recommending this paint as a better and more chemical resistant choice for bikes and cars. Haven't tried it yet but I will this winter.

http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/

Look for Brightsides paint. It's $39.95 a litre here in Canada

Paul

Cool. There are 2 retailers in Calgary, I will check with them. It's hard to beat Tremclad at only a few $$ per liter, though... I may try Tremclad and see what I think of the results first. If it works out, great. If not, this is the next alternative. After all, it's a long winter around here.

Mark

 

[Mark M]

I just spoke to our local dealer. The Brightsides paint is solvent based and cannot be applied indoors without ventilation. Since I want to paint in my basement this winter, that is an issue. I asked him about an alternative and he also carries System Three paints that are water based polyurethanes. He claims they are as tough and fuel resistant as the Brightsides paint, but no odor. Cost is higher at $60/litre, but that is not a huge deal compared to ease of use.

http://www.systemthree.com/p_wr_lpu.asp

Is the site for the stuff. Maybe we have multiple options here, after all...


Mark

 

[Guest]

I was hoping someone would chime in here about the buffing question I originally asked. I let myself get off track here so I quess I'm guilty of hijacking my own thread. LOL

Mark, both Tremclad and Brightsides are also solvent based. I do know people that have used the Tremclad say there is virtually no odour since you're not spraying paint in the air when you use a roller or brush. It's difficult to choose even though Tremclad is $12 a litre, Brightsides $40 a litre & System 3- $60
Just my 2 cents.


Paul

 

[Mark M]

I was hoping someone would chime in here about the buffing question I originally asked. I let myself get off track here so I quess I'm guilty of hijacking my own thread. LOL

Mark, both Tremclad and Brightsides are also solvent based. I do know people that have used the Tremclad say there is virtually no odour since you're not spraying paint in the air when you use a roller or brush. It's difficult to choose even though Tremclad is $12 a litre, Brightsides $40 a litre & System 3- $60
Just my 2 cents.


Paul

Well, maybe no one knows on the buffer. You will have to try both and let us know...

I am going to try the Tremclad first and then see how I like it. I figure that the price is so low that I have to give it a shot. I will roll the sidecovers first since they are off the bike at the moment anyway. If they turn out good, then the tank will be done this winter.

Mark

 

[PAULYBOY]

I plan on doing this to my bike over the winter but that's not what this post is about.

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

I want to know what to use to buff it out after. Not the buffer itself ( I plan on using a randon orbit unit) but the pads to use. I see foam ones and lambs wool ones. I see different textures etc. What is the best thing to use with the Turtle wax Polishing Compound I plan on using?

Paul

Find a good automotive paint supplier and ask them which pads go with which stages of buffing, polishing and finishing. Just don't tell them the rest of the tale. If they ask what type of paint justtell them its a single stage enamel, which it is-kinda-sorta-in a unique way. This whole thread sounds interesting, although I'm a big fan of all the spray equipment I've accumulated over the years.

 

[drhach]

Those buffers are used on cars because there is so much real estate to cover. On a bike, you might be able to do it by hand. That is, if you've got greasy elbows. If you've ever seen a hand rubbed lacquer paint job, it is something to behold. Not for the timid to undertake, but quite nice to have.

Work to a progressively finer grit with wet sanding. Ending with a 2000 grit. After that, break out the rubbing compound, then the polishing compound, the clay, and the paste wax. When it is all done it will be beautiful and you'll wish you had just sprayed the damned thing because all the work hardly seems worth it.

 

[Mark M]

Those buffers are used on cars because there is so much real estate to cover. On a bike, you might be able to do it by hand.

That's true. I never twigged to the type of buffer mentioned before. I borrowed one of these from a buddy to work over my 97 ZX-9 (solid red, gorgeous bike) and ended up never plugging it in. There were simply no areas large enough and flat enough to use it. Everything had an edge or contour or opening that made doing it by hand the only way to go. The bike was very dirty and had several years of garage grime on it when I bought it on consignment at a local dealer. After I finished polishing it up I went by the shop for some parts and the salesman I bought it from thought I had repainted it, it looked so much better. That took one saturday afternoon to do the bike from end to end.

BTW, I used Meguire's 1-2-3 system of rubbing compounds and wax on that bike and they worked fine.

Mark

 

[rudy]

Tremclad and rust paints are VERY underrated. I have autobody buddies that cringe at the thought of using anything but the most expensive euro paints. I've showed them some of my spray bomb and tremclad work, but I can't convince them that I've done it in my garage, with nothing but a can of paint, sandpaper and soapy water. Oh, and a lot of elbow grease, which is pretty cheap.

For those that REALLY wanna get fancy, Tremclad actually offers a clearcoat for covering their regular paints. This is vicious stuff, so base NEEDS to be COMPLETELY dry and cured. I'd leave it for at least a week in the heat of summer (this is the best), and about a month in the cold of winter. Obviously you don't leave it out in the snow, but an unheated garage will still be above freezing in most homes.

Here's a pic of some Tremclad work I've done. Never even got around to the final sand and buff, but still looked pretty good before I sold it.

 

[rudy]

And this is spray bombs.

 

[Mike_H]

I plan on doing this to my bike over the winter but that's not what this post is about.

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

I want to know what to use to buff it out after. Not the buffer itself ( I plan on using a randon orbit unit) but the pads to use. I see foam ones and lambs wool ones. I see different textures etc. What is the best thing to use with the Turtle wax Polishing Compound I plan on using?

Paul

If you're starting right out with Polishing compound, I would just use a terry cloth rag for application, and another for removal, by hand. One key for rubbing/polishing compound is to lighten the pressure you're applying as the compound dries. That will help lessen the fine scratches, and give a better shine.