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Finally went ahead and did this

  • Thread starter Thread starter Adler
  • Start date Start date
chef1366 said:
Prior to 1980 Suzuki used seperate regulators and rectifiers.
Click to expand...

I believe you may be mistaken.
According to the fiche the E models had separate regulators and rectifiers. The L's either didn't have rectifiers (magic!) or had them combined.

GS550E
20.gif


GS550L
19.gif
 
Adler said:
Well I managed to get the negative cable off the engine, so heres a small update.

The current state of the single ground.
P1040710.jpg

that is the R/R ground and the negative battery ground.
(Thats IS an R/R, right? I ask because it says "Regulator" on it and makes no mention of rectification)

Here are 2 stragglers who haven't found their way over to the ground point yet.
P1040711.jpg

This appears to be a ground point associated with the fuel sending unit. I am guessing this isn't too important?

P1040712.jpg

This looks like the harness ground. Unfortunately there is no way it will reach the single ground point so I may have to splice in some more wire to make it reach.
Click to expand...

Or make up two wires with ring terminals on them. One long enough to go from the Neg bat cable point to the fuel sending unit ground and another to go from the Neg bat cable point to the frame ground. Unless this is what you meant by splicing?
 
dueller said:
Or make up two wires with ring terminals on them. One long enough to go from the Neg bat cable point to the fuel sending unit ground and another to go from the Neg bat cable point to the frame ground. Unless this is what you meant by splicing?
Click to expand...

Good idea, I hadn't really though about how I would "splice" in the new wires.
 
Definitely heading in the right direction there! And yes, what Dueller said, best way to get that done when there's no way for them to reach unless you remove the eye terminal and properly solder on an extension.

posplayr said:
Sorry pete, that would be so that everything has a unshared current path back to the R/R (-).
Click to expand...

True... it does make sense... at least my suggestion has the same result though :o

Just so I get this clear in my head... essentially you want everything electrical getting the correct voltage from the R/R, which becomes even more important with the Honda 6 wire setup, in that if the sense wire is sitting somewhere where it has a voltage drop, it will overcharge.

On the right track now?
 
So I believe the relay I got is the wrong one.

There seem to be 2 common types of bosch style, 5-pin relay.
The one I got,
relay2.jpg


and the one I should have got,
S0332014125.jpg


The one I got seems to switch between powering 87a and 87. the other one switches between OFF and powering both.
 
Adler said:
and the one I should have got,
S0332014125.jpg


The one I got seems to switch between powering 87a and 87. the other one switches between OFF and powering both.
Click to expand...

Yes, the second one is correct for the coil relay mod. If you use the first relay and connect coils to 87a and 87, when the relay latches, only the coil connected to 87 will receive 12V. So either you will be running only on 1 & 4 or 2 & 3, and this can cause headaches to troubleshoot.
 
2BRacing said:
Yes, the second one is correct for the coil relay mod. If you use the first relay and connect coils to 87a and 87, when the relay latches, only the coil connected to 87 will receive 12V. So either you will be running only on 1 & 4 or 2 & 3, and this can cause headaches to troubleshoot.
Click to expand...

I suppose I could just connect 2 wires to 87 and leave 87a unused but honestly I feel that I overpaid for the relay I got ($26.31 for the relay and the harness).
 
Yes, 2 wires on 87 to each coil will work. Do not connect anything to 87a. But be aware that 87a will always have +12 V on it (as it is connected directly to 30 which is connected to +12 V battery via a fuse), so cover it with insulation to prevent a possible short if it touches some part of the frame etc.

Don't know prices in your country, but that price does sound rather steep. I recently bought a Bosch relay (with two 87 terminals - the part number is 0 332 019 150) here for the equivalent of about 4 US$.
 
2BRacing said:
Yes, 2 wires on 87 to each coil will work. Do not connect anything to 87a. But be aware that 87a will always have +12 V on it (as it is connected directly to 30 which is connected to +12 V battery via a fuse), so cover it with insulation to prevent a possible short if it touches some part of the frame etc.
Click to expand...

Actually, will only be powered when the ignition is off but ya same idea :) powered when it doesn't need to be. I was gonna say the same thing. Make sure it is insulated. Could just put an insulated spade crimp connector on it with nothing attached.
 
A little more progress happened today, if you can call it that.

I ran a new wire that connects the ground on the starter relay and the main ground.

My latest question is if I should worry about the last ground near the fuel sending wires.

Here is a wiring diagram for my bike
GS550L_Wiring_changes.jpg

In blue - things I think are grounds.
In red - my changes

It looks to me as though the 2 grounds in question are connected in the harness.

EDIT: here is a bit of a cleaner picture of the way the grounds currently stand.
GS550L_Wiring_changes-1.jpg
 
Last edited:
I would,as it appears to be shared by the front switch as well as the rear lamps in the diagram (hard to see on a phone) if so, you could add that grounding leg anywhere convenient.
 
You can if you want, but it's directly connected to the ground you have covered off at the bottom of the diagram there (can't read the numbers to tell you what it's near), so you should be ok as is.
 
I couldn't wait for my relays to arrive in the mail so I decided to test how the bike would run when I get the relays now.

I did this by wiring in the following temporary circuit (in red)

GS550L_Wiring_changes_dirty.jpg


This keeps the coils powered but bear in mind that I don't have a battery so all I am really losing is the kill switch functionality.

I found that the bike started a lot easier than when I began this whole battery elimination thing. I am not sure what to attribute that to, the ground improvements or the coil "relay" mod. It still won't run without choke and dies when I turn the headlight on high beam (the low beam is dead so I can't be sure about it).

Do you think 14,000uF is too little for the capacitor? I thought it would be more than enough!
 
Looked into this a little more, found that the bike was only firing on 3 cylinders with my temporary setup. "Oh no!", says I, fearing the worst.

So I went to pull a plug to see what the deal was. Glancing over at the plug here's what I see...
IMAGE_135.jpg


Well, kids... Can you point to the problem?
(everyone points at me)

Very good!!!
I am the problem.
 
Are you talking about the acorn nut? Where did it come from?

Course I see the unplugged wire but not sure if you did that.
 
cowboyup3371 said:
Are you talking about the acorn nut? Where did it come from?

Course I see the unplugged wire but not sure if you did that.
Click to expand...

An acorn nut tree, of course.

I sure did unplug the wire, and forgot to plug it back in. Shockingly, it prevented that cylinder from firing!
 
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