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First plug chop after carb rebuild and adjustment

  • Thread starter Thread starter Gs1000g
  • Start date Start date
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Gs1000g

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Hey guys, after several attempts and adjustments of the carbs after rebuild I think I have it lined out. I was a bad GS owner and have neglected the maintenance until this year. So here's what I did

1. Carb rebuild, new O-rings, gaskets, A/F screw turned 2.75 turns out on all cylinders floats are all within spec, new fuel line, petcock is good no flow on reserve or normal. Prime has a great flow of gas .
Jets are a 120, 45, 180, K&N air filter and stock exhaust
2. New plugs and wire caps
3. All new fluids, greased all the bearings, new fork oil, sprigs, brakes and braided lines

Now that all that stuff out of the way here are the photos of the plugs after a mile run, I ran the bike pretty hard only problem is around 8-9k the bike kinda studders but still continues to pull to redline just not as hard like its hit a wall

Plugs are 1-4 left to right in all photos gaps are .7mm
also I have all new o-rings in carb boots and new air boots





 
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Is this fixed by turning in the A/F screw? Or should I change the jets back to stock? They are the jets that were in it when I bought it
 
I'd be happy. Keeps the pipes from turning blue. How's the mileage?
 
The nice golden hue has went away on the pipes, I have checked mileage yet. I needed an ice cold beer after this fiasco today. What would cause the 8K stumbling?
 
Got it all cleaned up and back together it's hard to tell but the pipes were golden and now it has slowly went away


 
I didn't see where you have vacuum synched the carbs. Have you? That may help with the high-RPM stumble. The plugs don't look bad at all to me. Maybe a touch rich, but that's better than lean.
 
I did not vacuum sync yet, after all the parts I bought I had to let the ole budget recoup before I purchase a sync tool, When I took them apart I never messed with the sync screws but checked with with a bench sync method and didn't see anything that warranted adjustment
 
Gs1000g said:
I did not vacuum sync yet, after all the parts I bought I had to let the ole budget recoup before I purchase a sync tool, When I took them apart I never messed with the sync screws but checked with with a bench sync method and didn't see anything that warranted adjustment
Click to expand...

You'd be amazed at the difference a good vacuum sync makes.
 
I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than me will come along to give you some advice. Hang loose...
 
But it's Saturday night doesn't everyone hang around a website for 30ish year old bikes?!?!?!:cool:
 
Turning the mixture screws in will lean things, so you could try a 1/4 turn on each. But really you should vacuum synch the carbs first before you start playing around with things. I guess the first questions should be, what bike are we working with here? since you've already done a nice clean up on the carbs and will be vacuum synching why don't you check your valves while you're at it. As for the jets, I'm not sure what your bike has from stock as I'm not sure what bike we're talking about but if you have the stock exhaust and the only change is a K&N filter to replace the stock one I'm pretty sure you should be using stock jets. If someone has been replacing jets and such I wonder if they played around with your needle height? have you checked. There can be a few reasons for a stumble at 8'000, main jet, needle height and maybe a couple of others but if it were my bike I'd get the carbs back to stock with that setup, check my valves, vacuum synch the carbs and then take it for a ride and see what she feels like.
 
It's the 1980 gs1000, the jetting was increased by the PO I don't know if he changed needle height or not, before I cleaned and rebuilt everything it would pull as far as I wanted to rev it with the larger jets. I guess I need a Morgan car tune and to vacuum sync these bad boys
 
Lift the needles a notch and see what happens. You're in the needle / main jet territory at that rev range (probably more the main jet).
 
Don't get me wrong, I appreciate all the information but why would the bike run ok before the carb rebuild and have this hiccup afterwards? Is it because I fixed all the vacuum leaks? Thus changing The AF ratio
 
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