• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

First ride of the season...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mr Toga
  • Start date Start date
M

Mr Toga

Guest
Just took the first ride of the season and it went slightly better than expected. This has been one of the first times I've not had to push the bike home! :D It seemed to have been starved for power however. The bike wasn't able to push through 5,000 rpm above 2nd gear. The carbs were "GS Resources" cleaned last season but never synched. Here is a picture of the number 4 spark plug:

4tlzwg.jpg


The other three plugs looked similar. From my small knowledge, It looks as if I might be running a tad hot with some carbon deposits. The black part was dry indicating that it wasn't oil. Looking for someone with a little more knowledge than me to help though. Thanks guys
 
The black is a sooty carbon deposit. It's running rich, not hot. Lean and hot your plugs would be very white.
I did my first ride of the season on Friday, didn't put in very many miles but it felt good. Ran up to 75 mph in 3rd, then shifted up, didn't really want to start out with a speeding ticket this year.:D
 
Mr Toga said:
I'll check the airfilter tomorrow when I get the chance.

I never use choke as it doesn't seem to ever work. I simply leave it off
Click to expand...

If you don't need to choke it to start it, especially when it's dead cold, you are definitely rich. Dial back on the mix screws.
 
Yep, rich. Check your air filter. From Brian's tips in the mega-welcome:

9) Clean air filter and reinstall with only the lightest oil mist -- over-oiling and/or letting the filter get dirty is a common and critical mistake, and will make the bike run funny at low speeds and run rich. This may take a few tries.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks everybody. I'm going to back out those screws a bit and try to clean up the filter on wednesday. Will report back with thank yous
 
Mr Toga said:
Thanks everybody. I'm going to back out those screws a bit and try to clean up the filter on wednesday. Will report back with thank yous
Click to expand...

You actually need to turn them IN to lean it back out. But don't just do it willy nilly. Do a search on "Highest Idle Method" on the board here. That will help you in figuring out how much they need to be in or out, but basic rule of thumb is they need to be about 1.5 turns out from lightly seated. So you turn each one in, counting how many complete turns it takes (just to see where you were, this may help later if there are other problems to address) and then once your screw is in (don't tighten it gorilla tight, just till it stops turning easily) back each out one and a half turns. That will give you a good starting point to do highest idle method.

Good luck!
 
Well I gave it a shot and no luck. Actually ran way worse today. I took off the air filter and checked it for debris or pools of the filter oil. Looked to be okay. Then I set my screws out to 2 turns to do the highest idle method. The problem I had was that no matter how far in or out I turned the screws, it made no difference. I tried riding the bike at 2 turns out but it wouldn't accelerate past 3000 rpm. Anyone have any idea whats going on?
 
Am I missing something here?
Stock airbox?
Have you cleaned the carbs?
Replaced all the O-rings?

I would even TRY to make it run right till I did the list of usuals.
Ya still have the welcome page Cliff gave ya?

Oh and be carful not to mess up those screws. Very easy to round off the head.
 
Octain said:
Am I missing something here?
Stock airbox?
Have you cleaned the carbs?
Replaced all the O-rings?

I would even TRY to make it run right till I did the list of usuals.
Ya still have the welcome page Cliff gave ya?
Click to expand...

Last year I did the full GS Resources clean, twice. I have the stock airbox and even weatherstripped the top. Carbs were cleaned last year with a set of Mr. Barr's o rings. Ended up getting 4 new OEM pilot jets and shimmed the needles. The bike sat this winter with lots of sea foam in it. I just replaced the coils last week with the Dynatec greens and had my ignitor box witched out with a dyna S last year. Also just adjusted the timing. Would it be advised to go through the carb cleaning again?
 
Have you had the bike running properly(almost perfect?) at any point? Perhaps this is something that may have developed during winter storage?
 
Octain said:
Have you had the bike running properly(almost perfect?) at any point? Perhaps this is something that may have developed during winter storage?
Click to expand...

Its never run right. Last year it would run fairly well for 15ish minutes when there would all of a sudden be a complete power loss. I think, however, that was due to faulty coils. They would always test in tollerance cold, but when I had been riding and it died, they were smoking hot and failed resistance testing.
 
I'd go through the carbs again and don't cut any corners. COMPLETLY remove every removable part except for the butterflies, soak the carb bodies in Berrymans for at least 20 hours. Then spray all the little passages with carb cleaner(ware safety glasses). Then spray all those passages again with compressed air. If ya don't have a compressor use aerosol spray like what you might spray your keyboard with.
Wash em with hot soapy water and a toothbrush. Spray again with compressed air.
Lightly quirt each metal part with the spray lube of your choice. I use WD40(not a word from the masses, it works).
Make dang sure your air passages are sealed. Air Box, cleaned and sealed.
New plugs wouldn't hurt.
Also would hurt to check out the valve adjustment tutorial if applicable with your bike.
Is your fuel valve(petcock) working properly?
 
Mr Toga said:
Its never run right. Last year it would run fairly well for 15ish minutes when there would all of a sudden be a complete power loss. I think, however, that was due to faulty coils. They would always test in tollerance cold, but when I had been riding and it died, they were smoking hot and failed resistance testing.
Click to expand...

Sounds a lot like my faulty ignitor issue. And if the ignitor is working incorrectly it could cause the coils to heat up. If the dying problem comes up again give that a look. Resistance does increase with heat. Also check plug caps, I've had a couple go south on me and send resistance through the roof.
 
mike_of_bbg said:
Sounds a lot like my faulty ignitor issue. And if the ignitor is working incorrectly it could cause the coils to heat up. If the dying problem comes up again give that a look. Resistance does increase with heat. Also check plug caps, I've had a couple go south on me and send resistance through the roof.
Click to expand...

When I first bought the bike, it had a faulty ignitor. I then replaced it with the Dyna S system because there was no way I was going to pay the stealership for a new one.

Dodik said:
Did you put new gas in or is still seafoam infused one?
Click to expand...

The tank was drained and new gasoline was used

Octain said:
I'd go through the carbs again and don't cut any corners. COMPLETLY remove every removable part except for the butterflies, soak the carb bodies in Berrymans for at least 20 hours. Then spray all the little passages with carb cleaner(ware safety glasses). Then spray all those passages again with compressed air. If ya don't have a compressor use aerosol spray like what you might spray your keyboard with.
Wash em with hot soapy water and a toothbrush. Spray again with compressed air.
Lightly quirt each metal part with the spray lube of your choice. I use WD40(not a word from the masses, it works).
Make dang sure your air passages are sealed. Air Box, cleaned and sealed.
New plugs wouldn't hurt.
Also would hurt to check out the valve adjustment tutorial if applicable with your bike.
Is your fuel valve(petcock) working properly?
Click to expand...

I'm going to give cleaning the carbs another shot. Hopefully this will solve my issue. Thanks everyone for helping me out with this issue. I'll report back in a few days.
 
Mr Toga said:
Then I set my screws out to 2 turns to do the highest idle method. The problem I had was that no matter how far in or out I turned the screws, it made no difference.
Click to expand...

Hi,

Sometimes this can mean that the tips of the adjustment screws are broken off inside the ports. Take them completely out and inspect. See this thread:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=82559

Or just see the highlights in the guide on my website:

Remove Stuck Pilot Screws
(by Mr. Hoomgar)


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
This is exactly what going on with my 77 750 as well..right down to how the plugs look. I put new plugs in today and 24 miles later they look just like that. All we have determined so far is that according to all published info the carbs all have the wrong mains and piolt jets.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top