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First start up after top end rebuild

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Hey all. I've rebuilt the top end of my 80 1000G and it looks like I'm ready to start it up. I'm just wondering what I have to do if anything in regards to oil before the first start up? a bit of oil down the cylinders? around the cams? I did hit the starter button for a second to make sure the starter worked and it cranked but slowly like the battery was half juiced, but it was fully charged. Thanks in advance.
 
some oil over the cams if you havent already done so, disconnect the coils and spin the motor until the oil pressure light goes out. then its good to go
 
When you get t running, ride it and open the throttle as soon as it's warmed up..
 
Costing me?? not sure what you mean but I did all the work myself and bought the parts from Boulevard Suzuki 2 yrs ago when they had an "OMG you're fired for putting the sale prices that low" sale. :)
 
azr said:
Costing me?? not sure what you mean but I did all the work myself and bought the parts from Boulevard Suzuki 2 yrs ago when they had an "OMG you're fired for putting the sale prices that low" sale. :)
Click to expand...

So needless to say, you're not going to get that price again.
 
um no, I was actually keeping my finger's crossed for this years sale but nope, nothing. Kinda figured that though. Anyways, my engine oil light is not coming on, bulbs fine, I'll have to sort that out at another time though. Filled her up with oil but she still not starting. She's turning over but slowly, as though the pistons are tight. I took out the plugs and she moved faster but I can't get her to fire up. Another problem is that I can't get the clutch to engage. The gear shift won't move. The bike rolls like it is in neutral but no neutral light comes on (which is weird because it did before but again that may just be a connect). Arrrrrrrr......it's never easy. I thought maybe I had put the clutch cover on without having the teeth engaged properly but I took it apart and it sure looks like everything is meshing together fine. I've hooked up the clutch cable and it 'feels' like the clutch is working (it's stiffer than I thought it would be) but I can not move the gear shifter. I'm not sure if I screwed something up while putting the final gear assembly together (which I don't think I could have as it's pretty straight forward) or if I'm doing something wrong with the clutch. Any thoughts?
 
roll the bike a bit as your trying to get into gear, sometimes your sitting tooth on tooth and it just won't go in....a bit of movement might allow the teeth to move a bit and allow them to engage properly

if bike is on a stand try rotating the rear tire, so long as the chain is connected...

.
 
1st thought is DO NOT START IT UNLESS YOU ARE SURE YOU HAVE OIL PRESSURE!.
the gear shift sounds like you have not engaged the change mechanism correctly.
you can see it behind the clutch on the left. the 2 quadrants have to be central together and the spring has to be either side of the locating post
 
Agemax said:
1st thought is DO NOT START IT UNLESS YOU ARE SURE YOU HAVE OIL PRESSURE!.
the gear shift sounds like you have not engaged the change mechanism correctly.
you can see it behind the clutch on the left. the 2 quadrants have to be central together and the spring has to be either side of the locating post
Click to expand...

Ya I was looking at that the other night when I went in there the 2nd time. It 'looked' like it was correct but I bet that's the problem. Not sure what "the 2 quadrants have to be central together and the spring has to be either side of the locating post" exactly means but it'll probably make sense once I'm in there. Strange thing is I never removed the clutch basket. I definitely don't want to start the bike unless I have oil pressure, but please explain to a novice how determine that :oops: I already tried to roll the bike a bit but since it's a shaft bike that doesn't always work the same, so it seems anyways.
 
you need to check if your oil pressure light switch is working ok.take the wire off the switch and ground it to earth (touching it on the engine will do). the oil light should come on. if it doesn't then you have a wiring problem. if it does then the switch could be faulty. a good clean may help it if its a bit sticky!.
you can fit an oil pressure gauge on the end of the crankcase oil gallery to check pressure for sure but it needs to be a very low pressure gauge as the pressure is only a few psi.
 
Agemax said:
you need to check if your oil pressure light switch is working ok.take the wire off the switch and ground it to earth (touching it on the engine will do). the oil light should come on. if it doesn't then you have a wiring problem. if it does then the switch could be faulty. a good clean may help it if its a bit sticky!.
you can fit an oil pressure gauge on the end of the crankcase oil gallery to check pressure for sure but it needs to be a very low pressure gauge as the pressure is only a few psi.
Click to expand...

Good point, I actually have one in the shed. I'll test the switch and put the oil pressure gauge on until the bikes running, I'll make sure it's one for a bike and not a car though, lol. Thanks for the help so far, appreciated.
 
The oil pump is fine. I wouldn't give it another thought if the bike was running before the top end job, and you didn't mess with the clutch basket. The pump is gear driven and almost foolproof.

Did you double check your cam timing? It's easy to get the cams 180* out of time.
 
Ok, the oil sensor is working now. Needed a better cleaning than the one I had initially given it 'I guess', anyways the red light is working now, on when key on goes out when turning over, as well the light comes on anytime I ground the wire or when I had the oil sensor out and hooked the wire to it and then grounded the sensor. I did hook up an oil gauge that was marked for a Honda GL1000 but it goes up to 180 on the dial, didn't register anything but when I took it back out I realized there was no oil there. So I left the hole open and turned it over a few times and oil finally started coming out. I buttoned up the hole and filled up my oil again as it had gone down 3/4-1 litre, so I'm guessing oil finally got up to the cams. Soo...I pulled off the clutch cover and you were bang on, the change mechanism is not engaging the teeth, must have been knocked out during the whole rebuild. Is there any way to get it to mesh back in with the gears without taking off the clutch basket? I've been trying with no luck yet....getting there. Ed, good question about the cams, it was awhile back now but I do remember following the manual to a 'T' and double checking but once I get the clutch issue sorted if it still does not fire I'll be checking that out, thanks the heads up.
 
i think it is possible to engage the shift mechanism without removing the clutch but its awful fiddly. make sure you remove the shift lever and engine cover so you have lateral play on the shift shaft.
 
tkent02 said:
I do. You can do what you want, but read this first:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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its true, when i worked for Honda you could tell how a new owner "broke" his engine in. 2 identical bikes, 1 would go like hell, the other wouldn't pull the foreskin off a snail.
1st bike,the owner took it straight from the showroom and rode it how it should be ridden.
2nd bike, the owner "carefully" ran it in, not putting the engine under load and not revving it too high.

usually bike No.2 could be saved to a degree by thrashing it up the road when it came in for its 1st service. (usually to the owners disgust, but they did have a wry smile on their face after, when they feel how much better the bike rides)
 
Got the shift linkage to mesh, and it all made sense when I looked at the components and 'the manual' everything was lined up like you said earlier. When I first turned the key on I saw my neutral light, I shifted down, I saw my first gear light then I shifted back up to neutral and all the neutral and gear indicator lights when out....arrrrrrr. Anyways she's shifting as she should now, the engine oil pressure light is working but she's still not starting. Slow turn over that's for sure, light a drained battery but she's fully charged. Like I said there was oil pouring out of the bolt hole where an oil pressure gauge would go so 'I'm guessing' oil is going where it should "and the little red light went out so everything is good......right??". Where have I heard that before, ha,ha,ha. Anyways....Ed had a good suggestion to recheck the cam timing, although I did static time they Dyna ignition and it is spot on, I kinda thought if the cam timing was off so would the ignition timing marks but what do I know. Any more suggestions please 'throw them this way' :)
 
glad that bit is sorted. try swapping the 2 wires that go from the Dyna to the coils.black one and a white one. sounds silly but worth a try.
 
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