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First Street Bike Project - with a few questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
Slow boat to china project update lol. I have been slowly getting a few things done here and there. I finally got all the rotors stripped and painted, the headlight mounts painted, and the fork legs stripped and painted. Got the rear wheel back together and started on the front. If you recall, the bike was missing one of its front rotors when I bought it. Well, I was hoping to get the front wheels together today then get the initial frame build started so I can at least say I've started on the path to getting her on the road but alas, I discovered that one of the front rotor bolts is broken off deep inside the cavity. Bummed...So, no pic of a rolling frame just yet.

Completed rear hub and sprocket ready to go on the rear wheel. Paint came out nice on this one...
DSC03598.JPG


Rear brake rotor and now we have a completed rear wheel woot woot!
DSC03600.JPG


Headlight bracket before and after...
DSC03571.JPG

DSC03602.JPG


And finally the front forks completed and ready for mounting...
Before...
DSC03570.JPG


After...
IMG_0636.jpg
 
Hey hey, Sci, nice to see you back and making progress, good on you.
I know about slow boat to China, work on Jennifer has been about the same, you not alone man.
 
Hey there Sci,,,,your making some really good progress,,,,and your work is spot on....

Looking real good

.
 
I like the red rotor. Looks like my caliper and rear brake. The black looks nice too.
 
Thanks guys. Appreciate the comments. If only there was more time in a day no? It's amazing how one little thing like a single bolt can set you back days!
 
7981GS said:
Sci85, I have to admit that this was/is, by far,the absolute EASIEST WAY that I have ever changed these engines by myself.
Effortless in fact! ;)

This was with my '82 GS1200G.
I forgot to take pic's on the removal but, the instal was just the opposite and just as EASY!
Just place a board under the engine to raise it flush with the frame rails after the mounts are all disconnected.
Place another jack or same height platform outside of the frame at the same height.
Then, I just walked the engine over by rocking it side by side until it was in the cradle and dropped it into place. :)


DSC04090.jpg


I just pushed the jack over to meet the frame.

DSC04089.jpg



DSC04093.jpg



Daniel
Click to expand...
Daniel,

to my eye there looks to be a lot more clearance of the 1200 engine than the 550/650 engines. On my 650 if I raise the engine up over the mounting brackets the valve cover (or at least the breather cover) is higher than the bottom of the top tubes of the frame. I was just working on this tonight as I brought the engine back from the machine shop where I had those pesky studs drilled out...more on that later in a different thread.
 
I think I will use something similar to what Daniel has posted, but I will remove my valve cover, to give me as much room as possible. If I hadn't gone and assembled as much as I had and my engine was ready to go, I would have just laid it on it's side and dropped the frame on top bolted it in and stood it up upright.....

maybe next time....
 
Ok, a little more progress last week. The weather is just so awesome right now. We are probably a good 10-15 degrees above normal. Even cut the grass today which I have never done in March in the 12yrs I've lived here. Anyway, been scrubbing like heck. It's coming clean but I don't think I have the magic like GT and some others around here do...
P1000007.JPG

P1000008.JPG


This is a good sight for me eyes. I have officially started the assembly process. Thankfully.
P1000014.JPG
 
Good for a scrub job but the engines you are thinking of have been repainted.
 
Yes, they have but they had to get them quite clean for paint to stick. I haven't found the right way to get all the grease off in between the fins and in the corners and such. It looks ok but not as nice as a painted one.
 
Well, I was wrong. BCCap and I managed to get the engine back into the frame in 30 seconds, and the bottom rear mounting bolt back in, in less than a minute after a smoke break. Used the 3/8" steel rod method.

Ended up with huge amounts of clearance, and we didn't even need to remove the sump and/or the breather cover (although I already had it off)

DSCN2443.jpg



That's it. I've taken this thread too far away from the O.P.'s original question. Will post the writeup in my own thread.
 
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Looking Good Sci... but I think the ride is going to be a little rough with those backwoods bargain basement shock absorbers. :D Told you you would feel like things are really moving once you put those wheels on.

Paul
 
Sci85 said:
Ok, a little more progress last week. The weather is just so awesome right now. We are probably a good 10-15 degrees above normal. Even cut the grass today which I have never done in March in the 12yrs I've lived here. Anyway, been scrubbing like heck. It's coming clean but I don't think I have the magic like GT and some others around here do...
P1000007.JPG

P1000008.JPG


This is a good sight for me eyes. I have officially started the assembly process. Thankfully.
P1000014.JPG
Click to expand...

SVSooke said:
Good for a scrub job but the engines you are thinking of have been repainted.
Click to expand...

Looks good Sci. Paint that puppy.

You're doing great work!
 
Lookig awsome Sci, now you have a roller, your chance to sit on it and make revving noises.....:D
I am told this is what people do, i wouldn't know about that of course. :rolleyes:
 
Flyboy said:
Lookig awsome Sci, now you have a roller, your chance to sit on it and make revving noises.....:D
I am told this is what people do, i wouldn't know about that of course. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Whatcha talkin bout Willis......??????
Click to expand...
it's where I got the idea, and read it how it's done in one of your posts....Flyboy.....:D:D:D
 
Ok, finally got to the engine to check on the valve clearances. Unfortunately they were all too tight for my .04mm gauge. Thankfully 7981GS has a shim tree in his yard and lets them go pretty reasonably. Once I get those I will use them to sort out the clearances. I'm glad I checked!
P1000159.JPG


Got the bars painted as well. It used to be a terribly tarnished and scratched aftermarket aluminum bar. Looks much better now.
P1000205.JPG


I also stripped the rear caliper. Can't decide if I should paint them or not. I like the shiney look but not sure it fits the look of the factory paint theme. But, I know that rattle can paint will not stand up to wear on the calipers so...Anyone here running a naked caliper and care to share a pic or two?

P1000204.JPG


On the to shocks...
 
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Oh, and I need to remove the rear springs of the shock body. I don't have a spring compressor. anybody have any tricks to get the springs off without a spring compressor? I've seen someone use ratcheting tie downs but I don't have any that will fit on the spring. I think I need to get to this little nut to get them off. BTW, the top housing rotates and is marked 1-5. Is that a compression dampening adjustment or ? Was that factory for the Katana model? Any info appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
P1000185.JPG

P1000186.JPG
 
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