• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Float Bowls Keep Overflowing Despite Overhaul & New Part

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Guest
Hi

I have a problem with the VM26 slide carbs on my GS850. I just rebuilt the carbs using keyster carb kits. I spent a lot of time getting the float heights correct at 24mm. With the carbs back on the bike I got intermittent leaks from the float bowl overflows. I could stop the leaks by tapping the float bowls with a screwdriver.

I assumed I wasted my money on the keyster kits and bought genuine Suzuki float needles and seats for more money than I care to mention. It does exactly the same thing!

The carbs were scrupulously clean after the rebuild and I have a fuel filter fitted. I spent a lot of time getting the float heights perfect. The bike runs and idles perfectly after the rebuild. Any ideas how to stop these leaks? I should point out I've been using a remote fuel tank but it is at the same height as the regular tank would be.

Thanks

Mark
 
I had similar troubles with my carbs. I put on aftermarket float valves, one of the floor still leaked. Arggg...I bought 4 new Suzuki valves and new floats. The same one STILL leaked.

Fortunately it was one of the outer carbs, so I could pull the bowl without taking the carbs off. I took the float off, unscrewed the valve, found a little more trash in there. Must've been in the fuel line...I put it back together, it's been fine since.

One thing I figured out: with the float bowl off and the float removed, I could manually push up on the float needle with my finger and then turned on the petcock. Gas didn't come out, so this ruled out any other leakages.

I guess my advice would be to just keep removing the float valves and cleaning them.
 
If the valve seats are clean and tapping the bowl "fixes" the leaking, then it has to be either a sticking float, uneven float, or the tab on the float has a burr where the float tab contacts the valves spring.
Clean out the holes for the float pin in the float towers. Run a small twist of steel wool or sandpaper into the holes and LIGHTLY ream the holes out.
Sometimes reversing the float pin installation helps. If the pin rotates with the float, the floats rarely can stick. Also make sure the tubing of the float (where the float pin is inserted) is clean and smooth inside.
Before you set the float height, did you check that both sides of the float are equal? They are commonly tweaked and uneven.
The shiny, pitted wear mark on the float tab can sometimes cause a sealing problem. Take a piece of emery cloth and lightly rub the pit in case there is some dull burring around the pits edge.
 
Check to make sure that the bowl covers aren't causing the floats to bind.

Jeff
 
KEITH KRAUSE said:
If the valve seats are clean and tapping the bowl "fixes" the leaking, then it has to be either a sticking float, uneven float, or the tab on the float has a burr where the float tab contacts the valves spring.
Clean out the holes for the float pin in the float towers. Run a small twist of steel wool or sandpaper into the holes and LIGHTLY ream the holes out.
Sometimes reversing the float pin installation helps. If the pin rotates with the float, the floats rarely can stick. Also make sure the tubing of the float (where the float pin is inserted) is clean and smooth inside.
Before you set the float height, did you check that both sides of the float are equal? They are commonly tweaked and uneven.
The shiny, pitted wear mark on the float tab can sometimes cause a sealing problem. Take a piece of emery cloth and lightly rub the pit in case there is some dull burring around the pits edge.
Click to expand...

Thanks Keith I'll give that a try.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top