B
bgmart450
Guest
I have recently had to replace both floats (brass) on my 450E. My question is this: could there be something causing this that I should be concerned about or is this something natural with old age?
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Re: Float question (general, not height)
Brass is pretty durable and as far as I know, they should last indefinitely.
The only thing I can think of that would harm them would be if someone before you soaked them clean in acid, causing pinholes.
Earl
Brass is pretty durable and as far as I know, they should last indefinitely.
The only thing I can think of that would harm them would be if someone before you soaked them clean in acid, causing pinholes.
Earl
bgmart450 said:
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bgmart450
Guest
Earl,
I am not sure if you can see this in the smaller pics, but these are pretty serious cracks, and not pinholes. Not that they didn't start out as them. This is the first time I have pulled them apart since I bought it, so he could have done some pretty stupid stuff with it that I never noticed before now. I know there is some pretty stupid stuff I HAVE caught.....
I am not sure if you can see this in the smaller pics, but these are pretty serious cracks, and not pinholes. Not that they didn't start out as them. This is the first time I have pulled them apart since I bought it, so he could have done some pretty stupid stuff with it that I never noticed before now. I know there is some pretty stupid stuff I HAVE caught.....
You got me on this one. I dont know what could cause cracks. Since floats sit in fuel, they are in effect, vibration isolated. I cant imagine fatigue cracking. BTW, being brass, they can be repaired by soldering. 
Earl
Earl
bgmart450 said:
B
bgmart450
Guest
earlfor said:You got me on this one. I dont know what could cause cracks. Since floats sit in fuel, they are in effect, vibration isolated. I cant imagine fatigue cracking. BTW, being brass, they can be repaired by soldering.
Earl
bgmart450 said:
Ok cool, you're the second person to recommend that to me. The cleaner float looks like it'll require the least work so I'll try on that one, what do I have to lose? Plus that floats crack is on top of the float, I'd have never noticed it if I hadn't have dipped it. The other was spewing gas from the vent tubes.
What type of solder should I use?
A
Anonymous
Guest
floats
floats
They are in gas but you have the pin mounting that transmits vibrations as well as the needle seat and the fit on the pins is very sloppy watch can allow them to bang into the sides of the bowl, and yes solder does break down with age
floats
They are in gas but you have the pin mounting that transmits vibrations as well as the needle seat and the fit on the pins is very sloppy watch can allow them to bang into the sides of the bowl, and yes solder does break down with age
Yup, the solder seal fails after a long time.
J
jhw84
Guest
Brent, dont get solder happy, as the increased weight will affect the height. I suggest weighing them before (drained, of course) and after to make sure you wont sink them with solder.
A
Anonymous
Guest
hi there,
just one suggestion before soldering, even though you may use resin cored solder ( which I wouldn't.. it's too dirty.. try non cored ), use a solder flux in liquid form... in Aust. we can get " BAKERS SOLDERING FLUID " . the fluid will clean the surface and determine exactly where the solder will flow/bond.
HOWEVER if you can bronze braze, then I would try it first. Why ??
If the crack is at all wide, the solder MAY fall through because it is very thin when hot enough to do this job.. remember that the float will hold heat which won't let the solder cool quickly. I tell you this because I have tried it and had success with the bronze.
What ever you try, I hope it works for you.
Oh.... if the weight of the repair lowers the float, it isn't hard to re-set the float level.
good luck
stay upright
just one suggestion before soldering, even though you may use resin cored solder ( which I wouldn't.. it's too dirty.. try non cored ), use a solder flux in liquid form... in Aust. we can get " BAKERS SOLDERING FLUID " . the fluid will clean the surface and determine exactly where the solder will flow/bond.
HOWEVER if you can bronze braze, then I would try it first. Why ??
If the crack is at all wide, the solder MAY fall through because it is very thin when hot enough to do this job.. remember that the float will hold heat which won't let the solder cool quickly. I tell you this because I have tried it and had success with the bronze.
What ever you try, I hope it works for you.
Oh.... if the weight of the repair lowers the float, it isn't hard to re-set the float level.
good luck
stay upright