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Float valve replacement?

  • Thread starter Thread starter FiremanBob
  • Start date Start date
F

FiremanBob

Guest
Small, frustrating problem with my 1980 GS550E.

After rebuilding my carbs (all new o-rings) there is a leaky float valve in the #4 carb. I have verified that the float is not sticking, and replaced the valve needle with a new one from Z1. It still leaks gas like a sieve.

Am I correct in thinking that the whole float valve assembly should be replaced? If so, two questions:

1. what is the best (high quality, cheap price) source for the replacement?

2. The old float valve seat is really stuck in there, thanks to the new o-ring on it. I'm pulling on it really hard with needle-nose pliers, but it won't come out. Is there a trick to this? I remember the old one came out easily, not least because of its old, worn o-ring.

Thanks.
 
You can try to peen the needle with a very very small hammer- steel needle/brass seat. I have had success with that in the past. Penetrating oil, twist and pull. Mine weren't too difficult but I had used rubber grease, which I highly recommend- a tube will last a lifetime.
 
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bluewool said:
You can try to peen the cable with a very very small hammer- steel needle/brass seat.
Click to expand...
Boy, you sure lost me with that one. :-k

What "cable" are you talking about? Nobody mentioned anything about a cable.
icon_shrug.gif


.
 
Steve said:
Boy, you sure lost me with that one. :-k

What "cable" are you talking about? Nobody mentioned anything about a cable.
icon_shrug.gif


.
Click to expand...

C'mon it was one word! Corrected. Not auto corrected, tradesman's digits aren't the best on the iPhone. :)
 
Thanks. I did put Syl-Glide on the o-ring when installing the valve seat tube, but it still won't come free. I'm going to try the needle-nose vise-grip next.

In any case, I need to replace the whole assembly now. I'm going to call Z1 in the morning. Sometimes they have the right part, but it isn't apparent from searching by bike type as it's listed for a different brand bike.
 
I'm sure you check, but I'm surprised it hasn't been asked yet. Did you check the float heights? I just finished the carbs on my 1100 and they were all allowing far too much gas in the bowls.
 
Crage, thanks. Yes, I measured the float heights with a caliper and they are all in spec. Only the #4 carb is leaking.

I'm testing by propping the carbs upright in a pan and pouring gas in through the fuel line, so this is a gravity feed. If the float valve were sealing properly, the gas would rise up in the fuel line and hold its level in the funnel. But instead it pours out through the overflow tube and the air intake side of the carb.
 
Ah! Same here.

Ah! Same here.

Carb 3 was overflowing since I cleaned them and readjusted the heights to specs (25mm).
Before readjusting the heights, The floats were higher, like 27mm, but there was no leak.
We readjusted the heights more accurately yesterday, now 2 and 3 are overflowing... :confused:
It seems the lower the float (within spec 23-25mm) the more prone to overflow.
Could it be the fuel feed needle springs being weak? It seems PO set the heights in consideration of this problem?
EDIT
So doing my homework and searching the forum. I replaced the petcock, so testing on the way. I am running on VM26SS (ndlr)
 
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Kudos to the mentors

Kudos to the mentors

Well, I tested with a brand new petcock.
Guess what? No more dripping.

Thank you Messism
"(...) and a properly functioning petcock are 100% mandatory for the bike to run properly."

Thank you BassCliff
"13) Install new petcock, since I'm going to head to the roof with a rifle if I have to read about yet another #2 plug fouling and failed hillbilly attempts to rebuild the petcock and/or deny there's a problem."

and all the awesome GS ressources team and participants.
 
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