• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Forks Polished

  • Thread starter Thread starter GS Jim
  • Start date Start date
G

GS Jim

Guest
Here's the before'n after. Got a nice satin finish, but polishing forks is a lot more work than I thought (they stayed on the bike throughout).

I have a question for you guys: what grease is best for reassembly of the various nuts and bolts of the front wheel assembly? I have the following on hand. Copper based anti-seize (normally for engine bolts), teflon grease, lithium grease, 3-in-1 household oil, WD 40, motor oil.

Before

P1000249.jpg



Halfway there! I used a 10mm metal rod clamped in place to keep the forks from rotating while I work on them. A piece of threaded rod would also work.

P1000257.jpg


Since there were no deep gouges on the forks, 400 grit wet sand paper was used to remove the clearcoat, cut into strips as such
Polishingfork.jpg


Once all the clearcoat was removed I polished using a cotton rotary wheel attached to my hand drill.

After

GSforkspolished.jpg


Here's what the small odds'n ends looked like before and after "treatment"

Smallbitsbeforeafter.jpg
 
I usually put a thin layer of grease (lithium) on the front axle to minimixe corrosion & aid in the next removal...

I use anti-sieze on anything threaded.
 
makenzie71 said:
You didn't actually polish that old bolt, did you?
Click to expand...

Yes, I'm afraid I did..... and the washers too! This is the first time I restore a bike, and I fear it's becoming a bit of an obsession.
 
Last edited:
Looks GOOD!
What did you use to polish? I did mine but the problem I have is they turned out too shiny.
I like yours better!
 
GS Jim said:
Yes, I'm afraid I did..... and the washers too! This is the first time I restore a bike, and I fear it's becoming a bit of an obsession.
Click to expand...

I think obsession is a requirement for membership here, isn't it? :-\\\
 
Go get a stainless bolt or all that work will quickly go to waste.
 
WisGolfer59, these last few days, I've spent so much time in garage, the pooch is moving in with me!

Octain, I first tried normal polishing compound, but like you found it resulted in a shinier finish than I wanted. I sanded again lightly with 600 grit and applied some liquid aluminum polish to the fork with a brush. After letting it dry to a semi-liquid state (about 5 mins) I then hit it with the cotton polishing wheel. The results were closer to the satin look I was aiming for.

P1000255.jpg
 
Looks good, but I have to confess, I went for the high sheen on mine.
 
makenzie71 said:
Go get a stainless bolt or all that work will quickly go to waste.
Click to expand...

He has a very good point. I know oh too well. For a year or more I used steel wool followed by WD40 to keep the rust off for a short time but on my recent build I spent the money and had ALL the bolts, spacers, washers, etc., Cadmium plated, a bit of money but well worth it. Some guys spray paint and cook them with good results, some clear coat but not sure how that turns out. Bikes looking very good, is it still coming across the water to Canada this year?
 
AZR, tks for the comments, I have replaced with stainless when I can find the right sizes locally, even cut a few bolts to size on occasion, but the caliper bolts are a weird size I couldn't find.

Also this bike won't be ridden in the wet or in winter once its done, I have the honda for that.
Yeah, the bike is definitely coming across the pond with me this summer. Wifey is presently in Toronto house hunting, so I have the garage all to myself, hehe.
 
Nice job :)

The best way I found to achieve satin finish is to start out with wet/dry paper from 400, then 600, 800, 1000, 1500 and finish with 2000 :) Gives an awesome satin finish!

I have also successfully used clear 2pak (urethane) paint over freshly polished alloy.
It maintains the surface of the alloy, be it high mirror finish or satin/anodised and it is extremely durable even to stone chips and road grime!
 
I remove the clear coat with paint stripper. Takes 5 minutes.

Then we go 220, 400, 600 and finally steel wool to get that satin finish.

I degrease with lacquer thinner and clear coat with clear engine paint.

Good for few years.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top