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Frame bracing, boxing vs tubing.

salty_monk said:
Run some straight weight springs around 0.9kg/mm and cartridge emulators if you're using stock forks...
Click to expand...

I'm not, I will be running sv1000s forks. So I'm not sure on the spring weights I guess I'll just have to get the bike together and see how it behaves and how it sags and such.

GregT said:
Little story....We bought Gazi shocks for the 1000. Very good quality and about 1/2 the price of Ohlins. Very popular in Post Classic racing in Australia and well supported too.
AFAIK we're the only Gazi users to buy the softest option spring available. It's perfect on the 1000 with a light/medium rider. We actually have measurable sag.
I'm told that nearly all the posties racing in Aus have no static sag at all.....
Click to expand...

Yeah I mocked everything up and when I sat on the bike there was no sag at all from the ?hlins, so that's why I think they might be too stiff. I didn't check if there was any preload added on them so like I said I'll just have to get the bike together and take it from there...
 
I'm looking to get YSS shocks for my gs.I only heard good thing about them for the price.
I made little progress today.
Marc
CIMG5600.jpg
 
Good thread, subscribing. I need to do this to my 750 this year... Will definitely be doing tgis extensively to my GS400 489cc track bike this year.
 
I was planning a V between exhaust 2 and 3. Is this what you are talking?
Space is really thigh with a 1 5/8 header in the way.
Marc

CIMG6033.jpg
 
kochic said:
I was planning a V between exhaust 2 and 3. Is this what you are talking?
Space is really thigh with a 1 5/8 header in the way.
Marc

View attachment 62036
Click to expand...

My mistake. In the side on picture I could not see the crosstube. A vee is nice but all I did was a pair of triangular gussets below the crosstube about 50mm on a side - and with the unwelded side folded up to a 10mm lip. Made in 2mm sheet. Light and stiff.
 
GregT said:
My mistake. In the side on picture I could not see the crosstube. A vee is nice but all I did was a pair of triangular gussets below the crosstube about 50mm on a side - and with the unwelded side folded up to a 10mm lip. Made in 2mm sheet. Light and stiff.
Click to expand...


Thanks, I will do this today,
Marc
 
Looking great Mark & Spiff!
Got any more photos or ideas on how to better brace the ignition coil & front tank mounting areas? While still being able to fit in the coils & stock tanks?
This is one big thing on my agenda for my GS400 canyon carver / track bike build, as those frames & 550's are especially very lacking in that area.

Thanks for posting up, got me excited to tackle that bike build sooner than later!
I've been sidetracked all year, end of August thru early October several twisty road GS750 trips to the mountains but more & more heavily into dirtbike woods/mountains trail riding & probably ending that by Dec 15th until mid March.
 
Last edited:
Thanks, I will need to buy Dyna coils to make new brackets, the weld crack on the stock coils brackets when racing.The headstock is really well braced from Suzuki on the 1000.Maybe just copy it on the 400.
Marc
 
After trying a set of Dyna coils, I just welded the underside of both stock coils brackets.Usually they crack around the spot weld.
Marc
 
Good job, I do have a few things to mention I do a lot of fabrication. The factory frame does have some stress because initial bending/welding during manufacturing. All the welding you have done will introduce additional stress. If you have access to getting your frame stress relieved after the fabrication is complete it will enhance the strength. It is basically placed in a kiln/oven stress in welds is released when the steel reaches 550 to 650C, and held there for one to two hours. After that the frame is totally free of oil and it is a good time to have it powder coated. If you use aluminum for engine mounts I would use 2400, or 7500 series aluminum, it is about as strong as mild steel. I like to use 6AL4V Titanium for engine mounts. This alloy is about as strong as chromoly steel, and its weight is only slightly heavier than aluminum. The 6AL4V Titanium is almost twice as strong as pure Titanium. You can buy scraps from aerospace manufacturing of 6AL4V Titanium on ebay, otherwise the price is obscene. Any bolt on structural parts you can make out of titanium will lighten and strengthen the bike. And the strange gray color of titanium looks cool, and stands out. It looks great so far, good luck with the project.
 
Spiff said:
Hi again, been a few years since I was last on this forum, still haven't finished my gs but hoping to get there now. So tomorrow I'm starting to brace my frame.
I've been reading this; https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/archives/315
And I see it's a 60x20 1mm box steel that's recommended on the B C and E bracing, but what if I can't find that? Can i use steel tube instead? Or make a box with 1mm steel sheet?
I see both boxing and tubing being used online but I don't know about the pros and cons, I'm sure anything is better than nothing at this point but I wanna do it proper when I'm first gonna do it.

And if anyone is wondering why I'm doing this I'm fitting a sv1000 front fork and a bandit 1200 rear with ?hlins shocks so I think it's for the better.
Click to expand...

I did this bracing on mine over a decade ago, so specific memory a LITTLE fuzzy. I think B, C, and E are 1/4 plate steel. It's essentially a gusset. I also had to delete tubing A and replace with a gusset of plate to allow the tank to still mount. Test fit exhaust for F, have to make sure your header will fit.
 
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