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Frame Bracing.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Ausben
  • Start date Start date
Hey Pos
So, I had a few minutes at work to mock up a very basic triangular model. Basic three sided elongated pyramid.
I applied a moment on one face of the pyramid where the stem would be and fixed the point at the far opposite side of the pyramid which would be under the tank. All other points were floating free.

I did three trials, one without "A", one with "A" in line as you showed, and one with "A" as shown on the OSS picture.

At the top of the stem the deflection was
1: 0.052
2: 0.047
3: 0.04

Now this was all with made up numbers done in about 15 minutes at work. I just drew it without measuring anything. I would put a pic up but work computers have the IT lockdown.

Garbage in and garbage out, so take it for what it is worth :D
 
Dreef1999

Dreef1999

So you are referring to diagram below? Also I assume you have some type of structures program right?a CDF model?

I think you would need to create a moment along the axis I showed. So you need to fix the swing arm pivot and then apply your moment to the headset.

The lower part of the triangle would have to be part of the cradle frame right?




picture.php
 
Pos,
I didn't do the whole frame. I made a three sided pyramid to represent the boxed section. The right point was fixed which is where "C" connects. I just wanted to isolate the area where "A" is to see what kind of difference brace 'A' makes.

It is what it is and it isn't worth much considering the assumptions.

OSS.jpg
 
Pos,
I didn't do the whole frame. I made a three sided pyramid to represent the boxed section. The right point was fixed which is where "C" connects. I just wanted to isolate the area where "A" is to see what kind of difference brace 'A' makes.

It is what it is and it isn't worth much considering the assumptions.

OSS.jpg



Mine is braced per that diagram. On mine E is tubing, not the welded boxes seen here, and I didn't do "F".
 
"A" is the most difficult part of the fitment because of the tank, though the other gussets have to be placed very carefully as wel. I don't know how many times we had to tack them up, try and fit the tank, and adjust.
 
"A" is the most difficult part of the fitment because of the tank, though the other gussets have to be placed very carefully as wel. I don't know how many times we had to tack them up, try and fit the tank, and adjust.

For street riding can you give us any ideas about improvements you experienced. What suspension were you running?
TIA
 
For street riding can you give us any ideas about improvements you experienced. What suspension were you running?
TIA

Well there is the rub, did it at the same time as a full engine rebuild. I'm still one to two weeks from being on the road. I'll have to get back to you. As far as the suspension, stock on the front forks, recently rebuilt, so not gonna tear down for progressive springs until maybe next winter. Tarozzi fork brace, progressive 416 series (I think) on the rear, all new bearings.
 
Looks good but I thought "C" was the most important bracing to add?
 
Looks good but I thought "C" was the most important bracing to add?

your right Ed, but this is a later model Kat I think so it may not be as big of an issue. I thought it was important more for the circular tubing in the "E" position and there is an additional curved tube behind that at about 10 Oclock to the rear wheel. Also these are nice weld details. From reading the thread you will see the authour cut out the bracing from a top name shop because of the crappy work.

We have never seen that rear brace posted anywhere so not sure it it fits on a GS. It looks like a good addition regardless.
 
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