Fresh rejet, won't start.

[burp reynolds]

Let me correct a mistake I typed. I meant to say the stock mains are 95's. I read your past posts and you stated the stock 90's were replaced with 100's, etc.....and that somehow led to the brain fade.
Doesn't matter as to my suggestion to use 115's. What really creates the guessing here is that pods of ANY kind and a stock exhaust are a poor flow match and can make jetting difficult to get right the first try.
And from what I remember, you said you have pods, not a stock set up as you state above.
As for main jet suggestion with pods/stock exhaust, For what it's worth, consider that Dynojet recommends 7 full sizes (35) increase for K&N pods and quality exhaust. DJ's 138 main jet (supplied in their kit) is about the same as a 130 Mikuni main.
So an increase of approx' half of that (4 full sizes in this case) isn't unusual at all. In fact, it's just about a middle of the range selection. It may work, it may not. I can only guess when it comes to internet jetting.
What's important to remember after reading your posts, simple start up, idling, and a little revving of the throttle has nothing to do with the main. Your main will only effect the performance at 3/4 to full throttle. I think you have more than a too small main to worry about. I doubt the carbs have been fully set up correctly, among other things.
You have to do the basics first, then re-jet. All of my previous posts apply.

Dangit, I wish I'd known all of this before I spent 250 bones on a risky rejet. I could have gotten a DJ set for 100, and I would have been on the road over a month ago. If anybodys' reading this and considering temporarily rejetting, first search the forum for the following terms: (main jet, e-clip, failure, shame, heartbreak, destruction and eventual exile of decendants) so you can get the whole story and know what you're up against.
Sorry about the confusion. I've been trying this and that downstairs, cranking the starter at every conceivable fuel screw position, and at one point a different thread I was following convinced me to give up on the Emgo pods and go back to the stock airbox. Since the main jet was only 2 sizes bigger, I figured I could at least get her running and maybe fine tune it to work better than before (see comment about factory leanness) But no dice. The carb guy's sending back the original mains, along with some 97.5's, so I'll try it with the 97.5's, and if that doesn't work, back to the 95's, then when I can afford a 4-1, I'll start the fiasco over again. So just one more question and I'll leave you alone. How important are the breather hoses on the tops of the carbs? I've been trying to start it without them on. Could that be the problem? I figured they were nonessential since the PO had one of them capped off, and the other two open.

 

[mighty13d]

Hey, I didn't say that!

:-\\\BTW, I went to Messalonskee. Where'd you go?

I went to Dexter... it's just North of Newport. You didn't just sell some blinkers on ebay did you? lol I got a set off from a guy who came from Maine and lives in NM now!

 

[burp reynolds]

I went to Dexter... it's just North of Newport. You didn't just sell some blinkers on ebay did you? lol I got a set off from a guy who came from Maine and lives in NM now!

Huh. Worked at summer camps with a couple of kids from Dexter. One Crystal Crowley, and another guy named Ryan. Ryan Bown or White or something. I'm not your blinker seller, but that's interesting that he's from Maine. A lot of people leave Maine when they're about 20. Some go back, have kids, get stuck, the rest put up with all kinds of crazy circumstances to avoid going back. Maine's a weird place. People that grow up there don't really understand that it has its own culture. They get distracted by the people surviving off the tourism industry along Rt1 pantomining their caricature of old Maine - Christmas Card Maine, and Clam Chowdah Can Label Maine. The real character of ME is one of good work ethic, dry sarcastic wit, and knowing how to fix absolutely anything with bailing wire and an old wooden thread spool. Unfortunately most of the kids (myself included) did'nt appreciate their inheritance, so the state character is getting corrupted and deteriorating. Now even though ME ranks among poorest states (we'd be broke if it weren't for the coasts), it's also in the top three in per capita consumer spending. http://www.fedstats.gov/qf/states/23000.html

Man, it still smells like gas in here. I'm going to shut the vacuum off.

 

[Big T]

So just one more question and I'll leave you alone. How important are the breather hoses on the tops of the carbs? I've been trying to start it without them on. Could that be the problem? I figured they were nonessential since the PO had one of them capped off, and the other two open.

Two of those breathers (the outside ones) should have hoses on them to vent. Put them back on

All of your starting problems may come from the "middle" one on carb #3 (from left, sitting on bike). That's the vacuum line for the fuel tap. It needs to be either connected by hose to the outlet on the vacuum diaphram on the fuel tap (recommended) or securely capped.

With that line open, your bike may never start. Try closing the vacuum line and starting your bike.

What fuel tap is on the tank? Stock?

All this talk about main jets is irrelevant to your bike not starting. Go back and read Keith's posts. Main jets have no effect until after half throttle.

I'd advise (again) putting the stock air box back on, so you can ride it. You seem to want to keep digging yourself a deeper hole. Stop digging! There's an old saying "It is the cheapest man who spends the most"

You be hundreds of dollars ahead if you hadn't put cheap pods on and let some hack overcharge you.

You haven't mentioned if you're an experienced rider. Keep your bike stock until you can drag the foot pegs whenever you want to. Then modify.

 

[burp reynolds]

Two of those breathers (the outside ones) should have hoses on them to vent. Put them back on

All of your starting problems may come from the "middle" one on carb #3 (from left, sitting on bike). That's the vacuum line for the fuel tap. It needs to be either connected by hose to the outlet on the vacuum diaphram on the fuel tap (recommended) or securely capped.


What fuel tap is on the tank? Stock?

All this talk about main jets is irrelevant to your bike not starting. Go back and read Keith's posts. Main jets have no effect until after half throttle.

I'd advise (again) putting the stock air box back on, so you can ride it. You seem to want to keep digging yourself a deeper hole. Stop digging! There's an old saying "It is the cheapest man who spends the most"

Aha! Thanks for the tip. I put the hoses back on, as before, with the capped one in the middle, and the bike immediately started acting like it wanted to start. Great.

I put the stock box back on a couple of days ago. I'm pretty sure I mentioned that a couple of times.

Yes, stock tap on nonstock tank (that was the PO, I don't want to talk about how or why he swapped the tank) Yes, I'm aware that the jetting isn't why it's not starting.


Very first time I launched a bike was a perfectly controlled wheelie. That was at least ten years ago. I'm also a professional cyclist, so I ride better than I walk. I'm not saying you're out of line questioning a stranger's riding ability, but I personally wouldn't do it.

 

[mighty13d]

I'm not saying you're out of line questioning a stranger's riding ability, but I personally wouldn't do it.

I agree that I wouldn't do that either, but it just helps them understand your knowledge about bikes. I personally am going to do minor mods to the bike even though I have only had my license for a year. It's not because I want to go out and drive like a moron, it's just because I like to have my bike go the best that it can. If I wanted to drive a billion mph I would go get a GSXR or something!

 

[Big T]

Very first time I launched a bike was a perfectly controlled wheelie. That was at least ten years ago. I'm also a professional cyclist, so I ride better than I walk. I'm not saying you're out of line questioning a stranger's riding ability, but I personally wouldn't do it.

After 40 years of riding motorcycles, 10 years of it as a MSF instructor, I question every riders ability until I see otherwise.

Also 52 years riding bicycles.

I was just wondering why you're in such a hurry to modify a bike with plenty of power.

 

[Guest]

Don't have any real help for you carb wise but had to stop in to say how much I like your name.... Strikes me quite funny. I have met him by the way. Buddy of mine stunt doubled for him in a show.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

If you're going back to stock then use 95 mains. Run the two floatbowl vent lines under the seat and be sure of no kinks. Securely cap the vacuum port at #3 if using a non-vacuum petcock.
If you decide later to invest in a DJ kit, remember that a stage 2 kit is for K&N pods and quality pipe combo. It's not designed for pods only or pipe only. With stage 2, you will also remove those two vent lines and leave the ports open to avoid fuel starvation.

 

[burp reynolds]

If you're going back to stock then use 95 mains. Run the two floatbowl vent lines under the seat and be sure of no kinks. Securely cap the vacuum port at #3 if using a non-vacuum petcock.
If you decide later to invest in a DJ kit, remember that a stage 2 kit is for K&N pods and quality pipe combo. It's not designed for pods only or pipe only. With stage 2, you will also remove those two vent lines and leave the ports open to avoid fuel starvation.

Alright, thanks, Keith. I'm waiting for the original jets to come in the mail, already set the bike back up the way you described, and she's acting like she wants to start. I'm sure she'll run when I get time to tweak her.
I guess the DJ kit is in my future, esp since I've been forced to mess with the carbs several times already, and I pretty much know what most of the constituent parts are and what they do now. Besides, now it comes down to an issue of finishing what I started.
Since I'm getting over my phobia of 4xcarbs, I might as well go back to Maine and see if my old CB550's still sitting where I left it.

 

[Big T]

So, Burp, when you say it acts like it wants to start, what exactly is it doing? Have you pulled a spark plug to see if it's wet?

Actually, I'd recommend pulling all 4 plugs, Cranking it for 2-3 secs and let it sit for 30 minutes. You may have flooded it in your previous tries.

Also, did you bench sync the carbs at some point?

My weekend won't be complete if you can't get it started and ride it around the block a few times.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Hard start/no start is often a symptom of a poor bench synch. The bench synch, even if done well, still needs to be followed by a vacuum tool synch. The vacuum tool synch is as important to jetting as the jet selection itself. To me, the bench synch is basically to allow start up. It's not accurate enough to consider final.
To do a good job of bench synching the VM carbs and to allow the bike to run decently in preparation for the vacuum tool synch...
I couldn't get a link to work, so do the search I did. I made this detailed VM carb bench synch post that's easy to follow.
Go to the Technical Section, using the search feature, type in 78 GS1K (be sure to put a space between the 8 and G). About 18 threads down is the topic "78 GS1K carb rejet"... click that and go to page 4, reply #36.
After the bench synch, and assuming nothing else is wrong, the bike should start and allow you to warm it up. Once warmed up fully, adjust the side air screws using the highest rpm method. After that's done, vacuum tool synch. After that you can accurately test the jetting. If you later find that your jet needles must be adjusted again, you must re-bench and vacuum tool synch because every time the VM jet needles are disturbed, you must re-synch.

 

[burp reynolds]

Hard start/no start is often a symptom of a poor bench synch. The bench synch, even if done well, still needs to be followed by a vacuum tool synch. The vacuum tool synch is as important to jetting as the jet selection itself. To me, the bench synch is basically to allow start up. It's not accurate enough to consider final...

Isn't that one of the things I paid the guy in Oregon to do? I mean, if I were charging somebody $250 for a rebuild, I'd probably punctuate the job by finishing it.

 

[burp reynolds]

So, Burp, when you say it acts like it wants to start, what exactly is it doing? Have you pulled a spark plug to see if it's wet?

Yeah, I pulled them all. Dry. Of course, that was when I was trying to start it without the breather hoses attatched. In fact, that was what led me to suspect that the capped off hose might have something to do with fuel delivery. I've got an hour on my hands right now. I'm going to go look into that.

 

[mighty13d]

I've got an hour on my hands right now. I'm going to go look into that.

umm.. It's been a lot longer than 1 hour now. WE WANT ANSWERS!! lol

 

[burp reynolds]

umm.. It's been a lot longer than 1 hour now. WE WANT ANSWERS!! lol

Alright, alright! Plugs were wettish and #3 had a weird chunk of soot connecting the probe to the post. It was the with of the probe and appeard to be laterally segmented, like a tapeworm. I stood the bike more upright and switched the petcock to the PRI position, and then watched the fuel level rise in the filter. Waited a few seconds and threw the switch. This time the cranking was much faster than previous attempts, and there appeared to be some kind of steady compustion occurring, then it slowed down to the speed of the starter again. I adjusted the fuel screws inward 1/4 turn. Signs of life disappeared. I left for work.

 

[Big T]

Isn't that one of the things I paid the guy in Oregon to do? I mean, if I were charging somebody $250 for a rebuild, I'd probably punctuate the job by finishing it.

is that the guy in Sweet Home?

One would thnk he'd bench sync

But I don't see where he says he replaces the O rings

 

[burp reynolds]

is that the guy in Sweet Home?

One would thynk he'd bench sync

But I don't see where he says he replaces the O rings

Yup. All that I can tell was replaced were the gaskets, and to his credit, he offered to take another look at them if I paid the shipping one way. Honestly though, I don't get the sense that he's making too much off of these jobs. He said that one in ten has problems like this. I can't imagine they'd keep offering this service if their success rate were worse than that. I'm not going to talk **** on the guy. He's trying to work on bikes that are 1,000 miles away. I wouldn't want that job.

 

[Big T]

Yup. All that I can tell was replaced were the gaskets, and to his credit, he offered to take another look at them if I paid the shipping one way. Honestly though, I don't get the sense that he's making too much off of these jobs. He said that one in ten has problems like this. I can't imagine they'd keep offering this service if their success rate were worse than that. I'm not going to talk **** on the guy. He's trying to work on bikes that are 1,000 miles away. I wouldn't want that job.

If you're going to send them back to him, go to cycleorings.com and order up a set for your bike. Send them with the carbs and ask to have them installed (this is assuming he didn't replace them in the 1st place)

It sounds like the jets are still clogged if the plugs are dry.

You can always go to jetsrus.com and order up a new set of jets

However, if you're at all mechanical, you can just finish the cleaning yourself. Pull the carbs, pull the bowls, pull the jets and needles. Spray carb cleaner into all the passages. Put the jets into a 35mm film canister, spray it about 1/2 full of carb cleaner, agitate it, then put in in yout pocket as you doing stuff. Agitate it about every 1/2 hour.

After a few hours, dry the jets and check their bores by holding them up to a light.

Install the new O rings (if not previously done) , set the needles and bench sync.

It should fire right up.

 

[mighty13d]

However, if you're at all mechanical, you can just finish the cleaning yourself.

Install the new O rings (if not previously done)

Doing it yourself isn't too overwhelming. Here's bikecliff's site with instructions for doing just about anything you could want to do to your bike:

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

check it out and see if it seems like something you might want to do when you read the instructions.


and don't forget the o-rings