front brakes just don't cut it.

[Guest]

1981 gsx400.

Last season I felt like my front brakes were just not grabbing enough.

I have rebuild the caliper and new piston and seals.

blead and cleaned the lines.

rebuild the master cylinder.

And after all that I still don't have the stopping force needed.

What can I do ?


New pads are the first thing on my list (in case I contaminated them somehow) still lots of pad left.

I have bled several times using a vacuum pump.

I have tied down the lever over a few days and it did help with the stiffness for a while.

Its impossible to lock the front tire no matter how hard I pull.

When I try to emergency brake, there is a point at first when it grabs good and I expect to stop at a certain distance but when I pull harder it doesn't slow down quicker. It stays the same. As in with a normal pressure I slow down and with max pressure I don't feel any difference.

Its like trying to stop using one finger even though I try with a whole hand.

I can't bring the lever back all the way to the bar and It doesn't leak down.

 

[spyug]

If you are running stock lines I think I'd ditch them and go with SS/kevlar lines. The old ones tend to swell it seems. SS lines are one of the first upgrades I do and they work. Two finger stops no problemo.

cheers & good luck,
spyug

 

[Guest]

I'll second that. You may be just ballooning the old brake lines instead of applying the force to the break pads. Brake line replacement is a must for safety and the stainless lines greatly improve on factory stock.

 

[Guest]

Thanks guys.

Any recommendations for a source or what information I need. like type of fittings, angles, orientation?
I'm sure someone has got one for an L model

I thought It could be ballooning but I tied the lever down for a day or two and it felt stiffer but braking acted the same.

 

[Steve]

I am not going to say that going to stainless lines is not a good idea, but that won't help if your pads are contaminated.

Try replacing the pads first, that might get you what you want. Then you can go to the extra expense of the stainless lines.

.

 

[Guest]

Ok, pads will be the first thing I get. They are the same part number as the 450's "5930145810" so it should be easy to get.

 

[Guest]

Do both pads and lines,the lines are 32yrs old and yes you may have contaminated the pads. you'll be much happier.

 

[Tim Tom]

1981 gsx400.
Its impossible to lock the front tire no matter how hard I pull.

I would think this is a good thing. If you lock the front wheel up, not only is it dangerous as the front end cold slide out from under the bike and you could go down. Also the front tire is not slowing down its rotation at all if its locked and skidding. Meaning your not gonna stop any faster. If anything this is counterproductive to stopping quickly and safely.

I would change out the pads, on the front AND REAR. Don't forget that 30% of the bikes stopping comes from the back brakes. They are just as important as the front brake in slowing down.

After the pads I would also say change out the lines. The rubber ones only remain within original working capacity for 3-4 years. After that the rubber starts to break down and they lose braking power. Upgrade all around to SS lines and they will last for 10-15 years without needing replacement.

Don't cut corners when it comes to brakes. They are essential. Spend the money on them and do them right. Much cheaper than not being able to stop when you really need to.

 

[Guest]

I would think this is a good thing. If you lock the front wheel up, not only is it dangerous as the front end cold slide out from under the bike and you could go down. Also the front tire is not slowing down its rotation at all if its locked and skidding. Meaning your not gonna stop any faster. If anything this is counterproductive to stopping quickly and safely.

I would change out the pads, on the front AND REAR. Don't forget that 30% of the bikes stopping comes from the back brakes. They are just as important as the front brake in slowing down.

After the pads I would also say change out the lines. The rubber ones only remain within original working capacity for 3-4 years. After that the rubber starts to break down and they lose braking power. Upgrade all around to SS lines and they will last for 10-15 years without needing replacement.

Don't cut corners when it comes to brakes. They are essential. Spend the money on them and do them right. Much cheaper than not being able to stop when you really need to.

Thanks

The rear are already new and quite touchy.

I'm not saying I would lock up the front tire but rather just using that as an example that I can't get enough pressure there even though it should be possible with enough brake force.

It just feels like when I want the power to stop and there is still lots of tire grip left that It doesn't stop any quicker with more applied force.

I'm thinking I will order pads and a line off e-baY when I get the dimensions for my brake line.


This should be ok.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Suzuki-GSXR-...rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35ba9f19a9

 

[UncleMike]

Definitely change the pads first to see if that's the issue. Even if they aren't contaminated, if they're the originals you're going to see improvement with something made recently instead of over two decades ago, yeah?

 

[Guest]

I agree. I dont know the age of orignal pads.

 

[tkent02]

I'd guess 31 years old.
Petrified pads don't do much braking.

 

[1_v8_merc]

I put SS lines on a stock 30 year old system, and it made a HUGE difference immediately.
(low on money, factory lines were cracked...so I had no choice)

 

[Guest]

+1 on the brake lines. pretty cheap if you do it yourself, too, there is a really good tutorial here on the forum, i think its on basscliff's site as well.

greg

 

[82Shafty]

Seeing that this thread has already been started:

What's the chosen pad for the classic GS's?

Stock?
EBC Organics

Any other recommendations?


I've been riding my 2010 Triumph Bonneville and it trumps the GS in braking, as in when I hit the brakes on my GS I think they don't work.

I've rebuilt everything and have added SS lines already; it's time for a pad upgrade.

 

[platinum2]

maybe take a look at the rotor,it might be glazed up not letting the pads work right, - yes been there done that-
scuff them with sand paper or have them turned ,or get a new one, if your system is working,its the rotor that is the problem,just like cars they get burnt,and will not stop right

 

[JimmyR]

I recently had issues with my front brakes. Maybe different from yours, but now they work really well. I switched to Goodridge stainless lines, new Goodridge stainless banjo bolts, all new seals and completely cleaned everything. Even used a new master cylinder. But to start with I couldn't get any brake pressure. Turns out that when I reassembled the calipers I had the connecting bolts misaligned - difficult to see because they are covered by a rubber boot. Once I turned the bolts so they lined up properly I got good brake pressure.

I have Metal Gear fibre pads on mine, similar to the stock EBC organics. You can sintered metal pads which are better if you race because they fade less, but I went with fibre because they seem to "bite" more when cold. With how I ride brake fade is not really an issue.

Until recently it was tricky to get new discs, but I noticed that Metal Gear have started producing repro discs for a lot of GS models. I'm quite tempted to get some. I think brakes are about as important as things get on a bike!

 

[Guest]

I'm going with EBC pads.

How do you turn a bike rotor ? I've never seen it done.



I do notice that my line bulges with pressure so its got to go.


I'm trying to order a brake line on ebay but I'm not sure what to order.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/120885937063?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648

Would This be right ?

length 40"
fitting# 3 on master cylinder end
fitting# 1 on the bottom
Type c 90' bend
color: black

What size are the banjo bolts ? 10 or 12mm ?

That's my best guess. A 450 L model is the same line as the 400L.

thanks

 

[BigD_83]

You should contact them directly to check the specifics against your bike. They are easy enough to deal with.

There are more than a few members who have obtained lines through them, myself included.

 

[Guest]

Got it, I spoke to the seller and he had the info on file, I was right on

Its ordered