• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

front fork...trying to fix myself

  • Thread starter Thread starter boathead
  • Start date Start date
B

boathead

Guest
in the general discussion area, i started a thread about the cost of a fix...with the prompting of a few, i'll give it a try myself.

i ordered some pro moly seals, and await their arrival.

in the meantime, i'm wondering if i don't need something else...specifically, my fork ABOVE the dust guard was getting wet with oil after a ride. now, i truly believe i need a new oil seal, as there is dripping down low....but what would explain the top side wet? do i need to replace something else?

first of many questions i'm sure. thanks.
 
Check your camshaft covers and tach drive for leaks. A fine mist can come from those areas to coat the forks, or even a small head gasket leak will do the same.
 
dan, it's not motor oil...and it's only on my problem port fork, and the line where the wet starts/stops is very distinct, such as where the fork might have compressed during a ride. so i'm thinking it is fork oil.

what is it in the fork that keeps the oil down inside the fork?? the oil seal keeps it up in the fork, right? what keeps it from coming out the top side??

(i fully confess that i might not be understanding this fork stuff at all at this point, so newbie questions)
 
The wipers on the seals, which clean the upper stancheon as it returns from a compression stroke, wear out and more or less receed as the seal weakens...When that happens, oil can penetrate around the upper fork. Also, any pitting, rust, or other damage markings in the fork chrome will leave a passageway for the oil to pass. Pits and rust that have gone untreated with sandpaper/steelwool to smooth them will nick and tear at the seal, exacerbating the problem.
 
There is also a seal at the top of the tube where the dust cover is to keep the fork oil from squeezing out of the top as the oil is compressed. It's the top seal also that will let the air out when it leaks. If you've ever looked at an oil charged shock absorber when it fails badly, oil squeezes out around the shaft seal in the same manner.
 
TheCafeKid said:
The wipers on the seals, which clean the upper stancheon as it returns from a compression stroke, wear out and more or less receed as the seal weakens...When that happens, oil can penetrate around the upper fork. Also, any pitting, rust, or other damage markings in the fork chrome will leave a passageway for the oil to pass. Pits and rust that have gone untreated with sandpaper/steelwool to smooth them will nick and tear at the seal, exacerbating the problem.
Click to expand...

Yeah, it's just fork oil. Both of the fork legs on my 78 were leaking like a sieve. The oil just stays up on the fork and probably blows up a little higher as you ride.

After I removed the forks I attempted to drain the oil...and found almost none:eek:. It had almost all leaked out.

Rick
 
so, based on this limited description of mine, should i order something else? or hope that the pro moly oil seal seals it a bit better?
 
What?? The seals are shot right? Thats why you ordered NEW SEALS??? I dont understand what you're asking:confused:
 
ugggh. did i jump the gun?

i have fork oil residue above the dust guard.

and i have fork oil leaking down low..unsure where it's coming from. might be the drain hole. i tightened that a bit, unsure if that will stem it.

i guess what i'm asking is this: will a new seal stop the down low leak as well as the residue above the dust guard?
 
No, if you have oil residue ABOVE the dust guard, your seals are SHOT. The bottom bit is probably just a loose drain screw, but you'll know soon enough when you pullem apart...
 
ok. i think i understand. thanks. my next problem is finding 19mm hex nuts...the hardware store had 18mm and 20mm. no 19mm.
 
Why do you need a hex nut?? You need a BOLT, with a 19mm head, and two nuts that are 19mm. To make the tool you will need to get the damper rod out. The bolt in the bottom is an 8mm hex head...
 
And actually, it REALLY doesnt matter what size the head is, so long as the NUTS are 19mm... so if you find a M14 or something and NUTS that will fit that are a 19mm socket fit, then you're good to go..
 
TheCafeKid said:
And actually, it REALLY doesnt matter what size the head is, so long as the NUTS are 19mm... so if you find a M14 or something and NUTS that will fit that are a 19mm socket fit, then you're good to go..
Click to expand...


Or, you could just use 24 inches of 1/2" threaded rod and the nuts that fit it. Those nuts are almost exactly 19mm OD (just checked) and other guys use this set up. Use two nuts at one end to lock up each other, and two on the other end to hold onto with a socket.

Rick
 
Like this:

IMG_2027.jpg
 
ryonker said:
Or, you could just use 24 inches of 1/2" threaded rod and the nuts that fit it. Those nuts are almost exactly 19mm OD (just checked) and other guys use this set up. Use two nuts at one end to lock up each other, and two on the other end to hold onto with a socket.

Rick
Click to expand...
Even better! Then you're not stringing socket extensions together..
 
To help (I hope) you understand.

The oil seal is between the inner and outer fork tubes at the top of the outer tube. When these seals leak the oil will leave a film on the inner fork tube as it moves up and down in the outer tube. Also oil may collect under the dust cover and eventually leak down the fork. You will only need to replace the seals you have ordered. Be sure to inspect the inner fork tube for rust or pitting in the area the moves through the seal. There are threads on the forum that show you how to fix the rust and pits if present.

Don't panic because of more oil. That just means the bad seal is getting worse. Since you already plan to change it ,no worries.

Enjoy the satisfaction of doing this yourself. Enjoy the ride when your done.
 
still haven't gotten the seal in the mail, but doing the prep work...

drained the oil that was in it....got about 4 ml....yikes.

have the fork off the bike, and have my tools ready. hopefully will be able to get the damper rod off. will be trying it if it dries up outside.
 
Guys the 19mm nut trick does not work on the 650 forks. It only works on the bigger bike's front forks. The 650 forks are of a different design. There is another method for removing the bottom hex head bolt in these forks which holds the damper.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top