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front sprocket and stator/rectifier questions '85 GS700

  • Thread starter Thread starter ehowellgs700
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ehowellgs700

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The bike I'm referencing below is a 1985 GS700.

I need to replace my clutch gasket and to do this I need to get the sprocket off and I have bent the lock washer back so it is flat, depressed the rear break while using a 32mm socket and I'm exerting around 150lbs of torque on this nut and I can't get it off - any suggestions?

For the stator/rectifier question, I was at a stop light the other day, applied the gas and poof, no lights, no power. I pulled the bike off the road and found my main fuse was blown. I put a spare in and shortly after starting up and driving down the sidewalk, same problem. I got to a parking lot and thought I found a wire that was worn, so I wrapped it in electrical tape, put in a new fuse and drove across the parking lot with the same affect.

Since then, I read the forum and found that my stator or rectifier or a short in the system could do this same thing. I also found the testing numbers for my multimeter and tested the battery at 5000rpm to find that it was at 12.67V. The battery reads at this same voltage when the bike isn't running. I tested what I think are the three wires coming from the stator unit where they disconnect under the gas tank and they seem to be reading at very low amperage, 6.67 and lower and it seems like they need to be reading up around 80amps. Next when I tested my rectifier for resistance, it seemed to be low, around 2.67 V while it was unhooked from the system. My question is, how can I blow this main fuse if it seems like my stator and rectifier need to be replaced? Could I be testing them incorrectly?

Thanks for any ideas, I really appreciate this forum and all of your input and ideas.

Eric
 
ehowellgs700 said:
The bike I'm referencing below is a 1985 GS700.

I need to replace my clutch gasket and to do this I need to get the sprocket off and I have bent the lock washer back so it is flat, depressed the rear break while using a 32mm socket and I'm exerting around 150lbs of torque on this nut and I can't get it off - any suggestions?

For the stator/rectifier question, I was at a stop light the other day, applied the gas and poof, no lights, no power. I pulled the bike off the road and found my main fuse was blown. I put a spare in and shortly after starting up and driving down the sidewalk, same problem. I got to a parking lot and thought I found a wire that was worn, so I wrapped it in electrical tape, put in a new fuse and drove across the parking lot with the same affect.

Since then, I read the forum and found that my stator or rectifier or a short in the system could do this same thing. I also found the testing numbers for my multimeter and tested the battery at 5000rpm to find that it was at 12.67V. The battery reads at this same voltage when the bike isn't running. I tested what I think are the three wires coming from the stator unit where they disconnect under the gas tank and they seem to be reading at very low amperage, 6.67 and lower and it seems like they need to be reading up around 80amps. Next when I tested my rectifier for resistance, it seemed to be low, around 2.67 V while it was unhooked from the system. My question is, how can I blow this main fuse if it seems like my stator and rectifier need to be replaced? Could I be testing them incorrectly?

Thanks for any ideas, I really appreciate this forum and all of your input and ideas.

Eric
Click to expand...
On the sprocket nut you may need to use a little penetrating oil for a day or so to help. Other than that a big breaker bar is all I can suggest.

As for the blowing fuses if you don't have any other shorts it sounds more like stator to me. My bike acted the same way early on in its life and it was the stator. BTW, you should be checking volts not amps on the stator test.

You can check you regulator/rectifier by following the Suzuki procedure below.

With the r/r removed from the bike, fins pointing up and terminals facing you, the terminals from left to right will be A, B, C, D, and E.
Negative probe on A and positive on B you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on C you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on D you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on E you should get 50-70 ohms.

Then switch the negative probe to terminal B and place the positive probe on A, C, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to C and positive to A, B, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to D and positive to A, B, then C, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to E, positive to A, B, C, and D should give no reading.

The numbers have to be within range. It doesn't take much of an out of range reading to lead to the wrong output.

Stator Test

The testing procedure involves disconnecting the three stator wires and running the bike at 5,000 rpm. You then place the probe of a multi-tester in each of the three wires. + probe in one terminal and - probe in another. Keep the + probe on the same wire and check the other two with the - probe. Then move the + probe to the next wire and check the other two with the - probe. Again + on the remaining wire. Check each of the wires against the other two this way. I'm not sure what voltage you should look for on an 1100, my 700 calls for 80 volts AC. You should get consistent readings on each attempt. These are the three yellow wires under the gas tank.You want to test the ends of the wires coming out of the starter cover under the carbs.

You can do a continuity check using the same procedure. With the motor off and the tester set to check for continuity check each wire against the other two. You should get a tone if the stator is okay as far as any breaks. You can test for shorts by testing each with one probe on the wire and the other on the frame. If you get a tone or meter reaction you have a short.
 
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Wow, great feedback Billy, thanks! I was using the Voltage AC rather than amps when I was testing the stator wires at 5000 rpm, so the stator must be toast. I'll do the continuity test on the stator as well and check the regulator with your notes, the suzuki book isn't as clear as you just made that part of it! I like the breaker bar idea on the bolt, it probably does just come down to leverage, and lots of it! My bike is the 700 as well, so sounds like we're on the same machine. Thanks again, you confirmed a lot for me in that one message, so I'll go ahead and do another round of tests and then probably place an order for some parts tomorrow!
 
For the tough nut, you might try an impact driver, they can get very stubborn nuts to break loose. If you don't have one, try Sears or Harbor Freight. Another way is to apply local heat to the nut first, then smack the sucker. Good luck, Ray
 
Just a post-note here. I ended up getting a pneumatic impact wrench to get my stator screws out as well as my front sprocket nut - super nice and easy way to do this. I installed a new stator and regulator/rectifier and all is well now. Thanks again for everyone's help on this!
 
Just wondered if you could throw some light on my problem- maybe-problem .I too have a gs 700 and all seems ok but a number plate bulb blew yesterdayand after reading stuff on here did some tests.Generator is giving around 66vac on each phase,battery is reading about 22vdc when engine running at 4-5000rpm does this mean the reg/rec is toast.If i carry on using it will i do any more damage other than bulbs.
Thanks in advance Mick
 
It does sound to me that your r/r isn't holding back the voltage enough. I am really pleased with the new r/r and stator I put in, and it sounds like you're just looking at a new r/r. It's easy to do and for $100 it's not that expensive to rule that facet out.
 
At 22 volts, you are likely to blow the igniter as well. Besides the $100 for the R/R, you will be spending another $250-300 on an igniter. Don't run the bike until the R/R is replaced.


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