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Front suspension -new springs

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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Hi guys,
I tried to search the site for some info, but I could not manage to find any.
I recently purchased a new set of progressive springs and I would very much like to put them in my 77' GS750

Now, according to my Haynes i just take of the handlebars and remove the bolts on the front forks, replacing one spring at the time. Is it that easy or will I run into any trouble? To be honest I have never tried it before.

According to my Haynes the springs on earlier models are sometimes split in two. Now, if that is the case with my bike how do I then get out the lower piece without taking the fork apart? Any tricks?
Looking forward to hearing from someone...
 
Changing the springs is as simple as the manual described. My only recommendation would be to elevate the front end. If you try to remove/replace the fork cap with any weight on the front end, the spring will be pushing against the cap which could damage the threads

Remove handlebars (if necessary)

Loosen top triple clamp pinch bolts. (makes removing the cap easier and prevents galling the threads)

Remove fork cap. ***If your forks have a schrader valve, be sure to bleed off any air pressure 1st***

There's nothing holding the spring in place once the cap is removed, so you shoud be able to pull it right out. If you can't reach it with your fingers, use a wire hook. Pull it out slowly to allow the oil to run off.

Install new spring.

Replace and tighten fork cap.

Torque pinch bolts.

Repeat procedure for other fork.

After you've done both sides, replace handlebars and bounce front end several times to make sure nothing binds, no strange noises..etc. Double check all fasteners and then go admire your handywork (take it for a spin).
Mike
 
I would drain and replace thefork oil at the same time so as you can be sure of the quantity in each leg. as you have no way of knowing how much you will lose by removing the old springs.
Dink
 
I just had to add something.

I just had to add something.

Be sure to measure the new springs according to your manual to be sure they are the correct size, and not different from one another. On the top of the sring should be a washer that has a lip. The lip goes down into the fork spring. If you have air forks they take low preasure low volume air. You will need a 0-30lb progresive suspension pump, or a mechanic to preasurize them. I got a progresive pump on e-bay last week for 10.50 plus 6.00 shipping. The guy sells progrsive stuf all the time on e-bay, and has sold 3 or 4 pumps like mine in the last month.
 
get that front tire up in da air!! i changed my fork oil and seals with the front end on the ground bike on centerstand unbolted 1 cap removed spring unbolted other cap spring hit the roof bike came crashing down 8O
 
rick romero said:
get that front tire up in da air!! i changed my fork oil and seals with the front end on the ground bike on centerstand unbolted 1 cap removed spring unbolted other cap spring hit the roof bike came crashing down 8O
Click to expand...

Yep, it'll happen....try lifting a Goldwing with the forks totally collasped. :oops:
 
Hi again,
I changed the springs today. But I must admit that I used a little help from a friend. It was a hard job pushing the spring down and turning the bolt at the same time. Maybe the new springs are a bit too long (WIRTH progressive). But there were specifically ordered for a 77' GS750.

Thank you very much for your help...
 
If you don't have the front end fully extended it can be tough. Many of the Progressive kits also call for PVC spacers on top of the springs.
 
The PVC spacer is for pre-load. I made a pair 1/2'' and it eliminates the sag when you sit on bike. It does make the caps harder to install. Just be real carefull of cross threading those fine threads. KK.
 
You're not out to eliminate sag with the spacers, only to fine tune it. Sag is the difference in length between the fork fully extended and its length with your weight in the seat and the wheels on the ground. For a supple ride shoot for 1 1/2" of sag. For a more agressive, firm ride shoot for 1" of sag. You have to make sure you put a fender washer between the spring and PVC spacer.
 
I should have said eliminates 'excessive' sag. Progressive tells us to factor in rider weight, fork oil weight and the kind of riding you do. With a 1/2'' spacer my forks sag 3/4-1'' and feel good. Also,I just used the original spring washer between the spring/spacer as they call for.
 
Do the PVC spacers ever wear down? I'm gonna go ahead and make a set for my 400 but I can machine aluminum or steel at school if I'd like. Any thoughts? Oh yeah, if anybody has a new set of springs and shocks for her please let me know.

Thanks, Steve
 
Not to my knowledge Steve , I have never come across any spacers in forks that needed replacing because of wear.
Dink
 
Couplings for 3/4" inner diameter PVC pipe are just about the right size and are heavier guage than the pipe itself. They are about 1 1/2" long and can be cut down.
 
My new PS fork springs are sitting in their box a few feet away. I need 3" long spacers for my 1100EX say PS. Their instructions say to place a washer between the new springs and the PVC pipe spacer. Has anyone done this job on an 1100EX?
 
Not to an 1100 but to a 700 years ago. Just use a fender washer between the spring and the spacer that is about the diamter of the inside of the tube. For the spacer just get the largest diameter tubing you can get that fits.
 
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