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Frozen Bolt on the clutch cover plate and i'm outta ideas.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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A while back i posted about a clutch cable bolt being stripped out, i got a replacement and now i'm stuck (pun intended). The bad cable is free now from the handle and I have the shifter pedal and linkage off and the foot peg. I began working on the six phillips screw-head bolts around the cover to replace the cable and I can't unfreeze the furthest bolt(screwhead) on the right side of the cover as you look at it head on. The other five (two on the top and three on the bottom) were stuck, but came loose after a squirt of Wild Dog. I've tried wd-40, liquid wrench, #3 screwdriver with light tapping, and an impact driver w/ #3 bit (in that order) and i still can't get it to budge. and now i'm just starting to strip the head (after the impact driver). it appears that the bolt slides through a sleeve (rough description) behind the faceplate and attaches to the engine further back, just under the top of the chain travel so i squirted that apparent seam for good measure. is it time to break out the cold chisel, break the head to slide the cover off, and try to replace the bolt with something from home depot?? That's the only other thing i can think of right now. Thanks for any suggestions.
 
well if you have a dremmel tool you can use the cutoff wheel to cut a notch in the head and use a flat bit in the impact driver.
flat bits tend to get better bites, or all else fails, cut the head off then after getting cover off, soak the screw with penetrating oil and allow to soak in the take vise grips to it.

this is why those stainless Allen bolt kits are so popular.
 
I had the exact same thing happen with my bike on one of the recessed screws ont he clutch cover. I got an 1/8" drill bit and drilled it out enough to use and ez out. You HAVE to keep a steady hand and a drill with a level (like the basic DeWalt and Bocsh models) is a great help so you don't go through the screw into the case. I replaced all of them after that with stainless hexhead bolts and some never-seize.
 
I have been restoring an 82 gs750 and believe me every bolt and screw has been stuck or stripped. I spent about 15.00 and got a set of screw extractors and they have saved my sanity. Just put the correct size in after you use the burring device and put your drill in reverse and they bring the screw or bolt right out.
 
UPDATE

UPDATE

Woo-hoo!! I got the offending screw bolt out, off with my clutch cover plate and was able to (with a little re-tapping) install my new clutch cable 8) . and life is good...... But, now i can't shift out of neutral, up or down the gears :? It shifted through up til 3rd and stopped (wouldn't go any higher), and then back down to 1st but stayed in neutral on the way back up. and now won't shift. WTF did i do wrong? I'm guessing it has something to do with the tension which i set according to the clymer manual but i'm not sure. It feels like a rookie error so I decided to walk away and think for a little while. Ideas?
Thanks
 
Check your cable routing, and make sure the tension and freeplay are as described in the Clymer manual. If the cable is bent too much at one point, or doubled back on itself it will affect how it works. Misrouting of the cable can definitely cause this. I had a similar snag when I put drag bars on my GS, just to see how it would look/feel. Since the cable was too long for the bars it bent more than normal causing clutch slipping and I couldn't get to all the gears. You should of heard what it did to my throttle cable - idle at 5K RPM! LOL, the neigbors were not pleased.
 
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