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swifthorse69
Guest
Is there anyway to resisitate my fuel gauge without replacing the sending unit, i've check the wiring, removed the sending unit and checked it out but can't get it to work, stuck at 3/8's of a tank.
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Guest
Guest
What bike are we working on?
did you do the tests in the manual? What were the results?
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xxBenJamminxx
Guest
Here is my experience with fuel gauges. I did all the test in the service manual and it wouldnt change the readings on the needle at all. Thought the needle and gauge were shot themselves. I then pulled the sending unit, and seen that the fine copper wire that is wound around to create resistance was actually broken right before where is attaches to the solder point. I dabbed a lil solder on there to bridge the broken wire and the gauge shot right up to full since then I had continuiety through unit but it would either be about 1 ohm or unlimited ohms.
Moral of the story is though even tho the needle didnt respond to the tests its still in fact good and just need to replace the sending unit. Its making contact all the way down but cant the ohm load to increase as it slides along the coil of wire. Be thorough and look at it all with a magnifying glass if needed.
Moral of the story is though even tho the needle didnt respond to the tests its still in fact good and just need to replace the sending unit. Its making contact all the way down but cant the ohm load to increase as it slides along the coil of wire. Be thorough and look at it all with a magnifying glass if needed.
To test the gauge itself, all you do is put a jumper wire between the 2 leads from the harness. This completes the circuit as if the sending unit was plugged in. If the gauge works, the needle will go to the full or even past the full mark. If its broke, it wont move at all.
There should be tests for both gauges and sending units for all temp and fuel gauges. I know the 1100 Ed manual has. The results of those tests should give a clue as to what is going on. You are correct on the fuel sender it is exposed wire and particularly suited to physical inspection.
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xxBenJamminxx
Guest
When I did that to mine the needle didn't budge. When I connected the sending unit after fixing that wire it went up immediately ....
It should have. All the sending unit is doing is completing a circuit and sending a preset amount of voltage to then guage.
Less voltage sent from the sending units coil mean less heat up of the bimetal strip that moves the needle..thus it reads lower on the gauge.
The fuller the tank, the more voltage that is passed thru the sending unit and the strip gets hotter..thus it reads fuller. That the basics of how it works. Sending unit is just a simple rheostat the meters the voltage to the gauges bimetal strip.
Less voltage sent from the sending units coil mean less heat up of the bimetal strip that moves the needle..thus it reads lower on the gauge.
The fuller the tank, the more voltage that is passed thru the sending unit and the strip gets hotter..thus it reads fuller. That the basics of how it works. Sending unit is just a simple rheostat the meters the voltage to the gauges bimetal strip.
You probably did not have the key on.
A direct short should have pegged the needle (if key is on).
See your manual more more specific instructions. For the GS1100E the fuel sender range is 3 ohms(Full) to 120 ohms(Empty).
Chuck the later models do not use bimetallic springs but the testing of the gauge is similar with a short pegging the meter.
I have only been inside the pre 80s gauges, so therefore my response. But yes its all the same basic electrical theory.
I also had to replace the entire wire from where it passes thru the plate to the coil once. It was somehow broke inside the protective sleeve where it passes thru that little hole.
I stripped some wire and fed it thru the original casing and resoldered it at each end. Works like a charm now.
I also had to replace the entire wire from where it passes thru the plate to the coil once. It was somehow broke inside the protective sleeve where it passes thru that little hole.
I stripped some wire and fed it thru the original casing and resoldered it at each end. Works like a charm now.