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Fuel Hose placement on 85 550L?

  • Thread starter Thread starter volvo64
  • Start date Start date
V

volvo64

Guest
Hi Guys,

So I recently took apart the carb assembly on my 85 550L and cleaned them, according to the instructions on the carb rebuild tutorial. I went to put everything back together this afternoon, but now I find that I didn't keep good enough documentation on which hoses go where out of the carb bodies. I'm absolutely terrified of connecting the wrong ports together, so I'd like some input on what goes where. I've made the following graphics showing what I see; link here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/bd6oojoc3szlydi/fuelandpetcock.pdf

On that graphic, I think point 1 on the petcock connects to point 1 on the carb body, point 2 on the petcock goes to point 3 on the carb body and point 3 on the petcock exhausts and point 2 on the carb body exhausts. Note that point 3 on the petcock is on the far side of the fuel tank on the same body as the gas gauge mechanism. Also this carb body is #2; on the right as you're facing the front of the bike.

On the left carb body (#1), there's only one hose and it exhausts, I believe.

You can see the full fiche here: http://images.powersportsnetwork.com/fiche/images/SUZUKI/1985/Motorcycles/2114_11.gif

I'd really appreciate someone taking a look at their own bike and telling me how their hoses are routed.

This will teach me to take better notes next time!
 
I am pretty sure there is a detailed diagram in the manual on Basscliff's website.
 
So I hooked everything up again as shown in that manual, and, fire extinguisher in hand, primed the carbs and turned her over... and she runs!

And in the midst of warming up the cold engine, the 6-part cap covering the battery cells popped off. Don't really know what that means... There is a very slight amount of moisture on the inside of the cap; not in any specific port but on the plastic connecting the overall cap. I put it back on.

Safety glasses on; I'm starting her up again... and it popped off again. I guess I'll get with Batteries Plus on this one, since the battery was just bought last fall, unless anyone knows why the cap on a sealed battery would pop off. Overcharging?

Awesome possum, thanks. That's a much better service manual than the one I found.
 
A sealed battery?
This begs pictures but the standard battery for the bike is a YB 10 LB and that is an old fashioned lead acid battery.

If the cells were gassing and the vent was blocked I imagine the strip of plugs would pop off.

Eye protection is your friend.

Your bike is as prone to dodgy charging as any GS.
You can check the stator output and the voltage to the battery as per the manual

It is a splendid book.
 
I replaced the battery last fall when the old one dried up and I didn't catch it until it was bone-dry. I replaced it with a sealed battery. Guy at the store insisted that as long as the cranking amps, amphours, etc was the same or better it was fine.

I did all the voltage tests when I installed it but I'll do them again tomorrow.

This couldn't have anything to do with being in a cold garage all winter? It was on a trickle charger until last week.

A sealed battery?
This begs pictures but the standard battery for the bike is a YB 10 LB and that is an old fashioned lead acid battery.

If the cells were gassing and the vent was blocked I imagine the strip of plugs would pop off.

Eye protection is your friend.

Your bike is as prone to dodgy charging as any GS.
You can check the stator output and the voltage to the battery as per the manual

It is a splendid book.
 
~17V at 5000RPM. So it's high.

Would go further through the tests in the manual but the weather down here took a nasty turn and it's too cold in the garage to be hunting down wires. It's supposed to warm up Thursday or Friday though.

Question though, when I disconnected what I thought were the three leads coming off the AC Generator/stator, the bike wouldn't start. They're the three leads going into what's labeled 'AC Igniter' on my bike. Am I looking at the wrong leads?

What is the voltage when it is running?
 
Wrong leads the ones you disconnected are the ones for the timing pickup coils at the end of the crankshaft. It could never run with these dis-connected.

If you want to test stator output its pretty well described in the manual
the wires will all be yellow from the stator. There are 3 of them.

This output is max 75 VAC I think at 5000 rpm This is the unregulated AC from the stator

The three legs of the stator are connected to the regulator rectifier which converts AC to DC and regulates the voltage to something in the 13.7 to 15 VDC range.

If your voltage is really high you may be boiling your batteries dry. Not sure how over charging would manifest itself on a sealed battery though.
 
0.48 V here. Will attempt to trace back the positive leads this week...



Let the engine idle, and connect the black multimeter lead to the battery(+). Connect the red multimeter lead to the RED output wire of the RR. Leave the RR connected to the bike. Check the reading on the meter. Leave the engine idling
 
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