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Fuel/Idle Mixture Screw

  • Thread starter Thread starter Paul's Zuki
  • Start date Start date
P

Paul's Zuki

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What a God awful screw. Let me tell you what. I absolutely hate that damn little screw so much that it almost made chunk the whole carb thru a windshield.

Am reading thru Basscliff website and I print out all the necessary tuning info. Go to seat the screw lightly and turn out 1 turn, then proceeded with air mixture screw and so forth..............fast forward and tip of that damn fuel mixture screw broke off in carb head................fast forward again, had to bake(oven) carb and got out screw point (I'm a pro at that now). reassembled carbs. Now, air mixture screw some how on carb 2 got stripped. actually the thread on the carb is damaged now. Soooooo, guess what?, I get to rebuild another carb and start over again. :dancing:

But that damn fuel mixture screw..............I'm so nervous to seat that screw, cuz I don't know if the tip is going to break off or not and with that damn spring putting tension back, It's so hard to tell whether it has seated or not. How do you guys do it? Damnit.

Oh, at some point bike turned back on but the idle was pretty high and when it dropped to about 2k and blipped the throttle, it would go up and not come back down for about 5 seconds. How do I diagnose that?

One last important question. :mad: At what point do you just give up when there is problem after problem after you think that you are about done? WTF?
 
I apply a light smear of grease or Vaseline on the orings. This lets them slide down the tube without binding and you dont need to twist as hard...it also lets you feel the bottom much more gently as they start to get snugged down.
 
The point of the tip will poke though the carb body when it's fully seated, so you should be able to put your finger over the hole and feel (or watch closely with a magnifying glass) for when the point starts to protrude, thus telling you it's near fully seated.

A hanging idle is a sign of a lean mixture, typically caused by leaking intake boots and/or their O-rings.

For a bike with pods I'd run the pilot fuel screws at 1 turn from lightly seated, and the pilot air screws at 1.5 turns. Tune from there for best running.
 
Nessism said:
The point of the tip will poke though the carb body when it's fully seated, so you should be able to put your finger over the hole and feel (or watch closely with a magnifying glass) for when the point starts to protrude, thus telling you it's near fully seated.

A hanging idle is a sign of a lean mixture, typically caused by leaking intake boots and/or their O-rings.

For a bike with pods I'd run the pilot fuel screws at 1 turn from lightly seated, and the pilot air screws at 1.5 turns. Tune from there for best running.
Click to expand...

Good advice. I swear it makes me nervous though. It's so hard to find those fuel mixture screws. Anyways, It was running decently while I was seating the rings. and then it just wouldn't turn on the next day. I lost 3 spark plugs at the same time. Electrical issue? Don't Know? I replaced all 4 and purchased 4 more just in case.

I will try the petroleum jelly and the finger feeling method.
 
Just be thankful your able to move the screw at all

My 650 had a carb and the threading was all bashed up, so it was crazy to remove the screw, because it wasn't gonna go back in without some rethreading...which I'm not sure is possible in such a delicate area.
Luckily i was able to move the screw enough to set it right....then just left it alone!
 
Paul's Zuki said:
What a God awful screw. Let me tell you what. I absolutely hate that damn little screw so much that it almost made chunk the whole carb thru a windshield.

Am reading thru Basscliff website and I print out all the necessary tuning info. Go to seat the screw lightly and turn out 1 turn, then proceeded with air mixture screw and so forth..............fast forward and tip of that damn fuel mixture screw broke off in carb head................fast forward again, had to bake(oven) carb and got out screw point (I'm a pro at that now). reassembled carbs. Now, air mixture screw some how on carb 2 got stripped. actually the thread on the carb is damaged now. Soooooo, guess what?, I get to rebuild another carb and start over again. :dancing:

But that damn fuel mixture screw..............I'm so nervous to seat that screw, cuz I don't know if the tip is going to break off or not and with that damn spring putting tension back, It's so hard to tell whether it has seated or not. How do you guys do it? Damnit.

Oh, at some point bike turned back on but the idle was pretty high and when it dropped to about 2k and blipped the throttle, it would go up and not come back down for about 5 seconds. How do I diagnose that?

One last important question. :mad: At what point do you just give up when there is problem after problem after you think that you are about done? WTF?
Click to expand...

Some times it?s just better to take it to a shop.
 
I just had to rant and ask a question. It's just those damn screws. I had two sets of carbs. One that came with the bike when i purchased it that had all those tips broke off and a second set of carbs just to get the the top covers, that ended up being better carbs and those screws were broke to. I just hate the fact that no one has those screws to purchase easily. If it was easy to find and purchase maybe no biggie. I can pretty much tear down the whole carb assembly with internals out in probably less than 30 minutes and put back together the next 30.
 
Nessism said:
.

A hanging idle is a sign of a lean mixture, typically caused by leaking intake boots and/or their O-rings.

.
Click to expand...

Is it possible that when I was doing some adjustment thinking that I had seated and turned out 1 turn that I actually didn't turn it one turn from lightly seated and thus it being turned out more than needed and causing it to idle high? I know for a fact that my carb intake boots are good and seals are new.
 
Okay, so it seems to idle good, but it still sticksfor a few seconds when i barely blip the throttle. I swear the intake boots are good and o rings good, but could that really be all there is to it? Should I pull these off? Is there anything carb wise taht would make it stick? I have the screws turned as indicated from above and went ahead and put in 100 main jets.
 
Last edited:
Nessism said:
Did you vacuum sync?
Click to expand...

Not yet. I guess I thought it should run decent. Afterall it wasn't doing that when I did the break in to seat the rings. That's why I'm confused. Should I go ahead and vacuum sync then?

When I first turn it on it idles high. Above 2k to 2.5K and then it will idle after about a minute at 1100rpm.
 
You can't diagnose a bike until the maintenance is done. You should know this by now.
 
Well, I did do the bench sync. I had to take apart and reassemble the carbs again after finding out that fuel mixture screw on carb 1 broke. I guess I will vacuum sync tomorrow.
 
Don't feel too bad, I got a stripped head on #4 idle screw taking it apart... Now I have to reverse drill to get it out so I can finish cleaning and jetting... Arrgh!:(
 
keman said:
Don't feel too bad, I got a stripped head on #4 idle screw taking it apart... Now I have to reverse drill to get it out so I can finish cleaning and jetting... Arrgh!:(
Click to expand...


OH, that sucks. The beauty of machined parts. No easy fix when ruined.
 
Never did get the screw out. Ended up rebuilding one of my spare carbs and replacing the whole thing. :mad: Funny how a screw that was so easy to strip would not drill for the life of it. I think a PO must have done some damage to it before I did.
 
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