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Fuel problems??

  • Thread starter Thread starter my98xplorer
  • Start date Start date
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my98xplorer

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I still havent been able to fix the fact that my bike wont rev over about 4,000rpm's. Many have suggested fuel issues. Where do i begin in checking for a fuel problem?
 
my98xplorer Posted: Sun Mar 06, 2005 6:19 pm Post subject: Fuel problems??

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I still havent been able to fix the fact that my bike wont rev over about 4,000rpm's. Many have suggested fuel issues. Where do i begin in checking for a fuel problem?
Click to expand...


At the tank. No seriously, take the tank off and check to see the petcock is flowing well. Remember that the petcock is a vacumm type, I just suck on the vacumm tube, no regard for personal safety. Then follow the fuel path checking each function as you go. After the petcock, check that the fuel hose is the right size, then make sure the hose isn't kinked and is fixed to the carbs properly. Then take your carbs off and check the path to each carb is flowing. A good way to see if your carbs are working at least somewhat is to hook up a temp gas tank while the carb rack is off. Keep the fuel flow constant and see if any gas comes out of the carb bodies where the air filter goes. If yes, fuel is spilling over, your floats or valves are messed up, if no, then move on to the next thing which is opening the float bowl drains. Count how many seconds the fuel flows out of each carb. If they are the same, you might be in good shape. I'd be disassembling all the carbs at this point, but if you don't want to, at least try and move the slides up and down. If they are free, you might be ok.

I guess before I did any of this, I'd disconnect the ignition to the coils and crank the bike about 10 times. Then pull the plugs and see if they are wet. If so, they are getting fuel.

Just note that the carb has two modes (or circuits)- slow speed and high speed. The slow speed circuit is the one that really takes a lot of wizardry, the high speed circuit is really basic. IMHO if your bike idles even ok and you can't get the thing over 4k rpms, your more likely to have an electrical issue. That's a real bitch, but pretty easy to test. Ask Earl, I don't want to be responsable for electrical troubleshooting.
 
Also, if you have one of those tiny inline fuel filter between the petcock and the carbs, take it off and throw it away. They cause more problems than they solve. The also will not flow enough fuel for extended full throttle running.

Earl
 
Yup, the petcock has a screen filter anyway. I leave it to that and the float needle valves.
 
earlfor said:
Also, if you have one of those tiny inline fuel filter between the petcock and the carbs, take it off and throw it away. They cause more problems than they solve. The also will not flow enough fuel for extended full throttle running.

Earl
Click to expand...

I checked for a filter and there isnt one on there?? Maybe the person who had it before me took it off for some reason?
 
Jethro said:
my98xplorer Posted: Sun Mar 06, 2005 6:19 pm Post subject: Fuel problems??

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I still havent been able to fix the fact that my bike wont rev over about 4,000rpm's. Many have suggested fuel issues. Where do i begin in checking for a fuel problem?
Click to expand...


At the tank. No seriously, take the tank off and check to see the petcock is flowing well. Remember that the petcock is a vacumm type, I just suck on the vacumm tube, no regard for personal safety. Then follow the fuel path checking each function as you go. After the petcock, check that the fuel hose is the right size, then make sure the hose isn't kinked and is fixed to the carbs properly. Then take your carbs off and check the path to each carb is flowing. A good way to see if your carbs are working at least somewhat is to hook up a temp gas tank while the carb rack is off. Keep the fuel flow constant and see if any gas comes out of the carb bodies where the air filter goes. If yes, fuel is spilling over, your floats or valves are messed up, if no, then move on to the next thing which is opening the float bowl drains. Count how many seconds the fuel flows out of each carb. If they are the same, you might be in good shape. I'd be disassembling all the carbs at this point, but if you don't want to, at least try and move the slides up and down. If they are free, you might be ok.

I guess before I did any of this, I'd disconnect the ignition to the coils and crank the bike about 10 times. Then pull the plugs and see if they are wet. If so, they are getting fuel.

Just note that the carb has two modes (or circuits)- slow speed and high speed. The slow speed circuit is the one that really takes a lot of wizardry, the high speed circuit is really basic. IMHO if your bike idles even ok and you can't get the thing over 4k rpms, your more likely to have an electrical issue. That's a real bitch, but pretty easy to test. Ask Earl, I don't want to be responsable for electrical troubleshooting.
Click to expand...

By no means am i a bike mechanic, and i dont feel comfortable taking off the carbs for fear of having to have them readjusted and maybe making the problem even worse. And yes, the bike idles fine, but it wont go over 4k rpms. I just bought a new (used but working) stator that should be here wednesday. I still have to do the test that earl told me about, just havent had a chance yet.
 
By no means am i a bike mechanic, and i dont feel comfortable taking off the carbs for fear of having to have them readjusted and maybe making the problem even worse. And yes, the bike idles fine, but it wont go over 4k rpms. I just bought a new (used but working) stator that should be here wednesday. I still have to do the test that earl told me about, just havent had a chance yet.
Click to expand...

If you are willing to pull the old stator and replace it, you have the ability to do anything on the carbs. Nothing is harder than having to deal with case bolts and old gasket material :x . The carbs only require some attention to detail. The only issue with carb work is getting a synch gauge, but it's worth it's weight in gold. I got mine from Dennis Kirk for about $45.

Anyway, I think you are more on track with the electrical troubleshooting. Like I said, idling is the most challenging thing a carb has to do, so I'd move on to the electrics.
 
In the case where the stator is, how much oil is in there and do i need a new gasket to put on once i take the old one off? What gasket is that if so? Thanks for all the help!!
 
Probably the wire loom. More specifically, one of the connectors in the loom. My philosophy with wiring is whenever I replace a part, I use all new wire and connectors for that part and anything that connects to it. I actually rewired my entire 81 that way, and that says something, because most forum members know I don't have a clue about electrics. It's like a frickin' black art to me. Damn electrons. Fuel I can see and understand, even air is somewhat tangable, but electrics- forget about it.
 
ok well im about to head to the local Suzuki dealer. Bikebandit wants $6 for the gasket, and $6 to ship it ground, wich would take about 7 days to get to me since i live in Fl. Hopefully that will be the problem and i can get it runninng right soon, i miss riding!
 
7 days? Only if your lucky. That's the problem with BikeBandit. You can order 99% of the stock OEM parts for your bike, but I have never gotten an order from them in less than 2 weeks. They don't stock anything, it comes from all over the planet, then get's shipped to you.
 
Is eveything stock and are you running with the air cleaner and stock air cleaner housing?
 
mcconnell said:
Is eveything stock and are you running with the air cleaner and stock air cleaner housing?
Click to expand...

Everything is stock and yes i was running it with the stock air filter and housing.
 
ok so i ordered the gasket from Suzuki, including shipping its gonna cost me $8. It should be here next week sometime. Ill let you guys know when i change out the stator and what the results are!
 
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