Fuel resistant paint

[GS750GUY]

I'm about to repaint my gas tank myself and was wondering about fuel resistant paint. Is there such a thing.......do they come in spray cans........and what brands are they?
I've seen several tank paint jobs destroyed by the first overflow of fuel at the pump.
I'm not going to pay a body shop $500.00 to paint a gas tank.
I appreciate input, advice, and (pictures if you have them) from all who have done their own paint jobs.
Thanks,
GS750GUY

 

[chuckycheese]

Paint

Paint

I've seen that discussed here before so you might find something if you search. I'd suggest you go by a body shop (or two) and ask them. Some of those guys are pretty sharp and I think they'd be glad to steer you in the right direction.:-D

 

[rmarrs]

I'm about to repaint my gas tank myself and was wondering about fuel resistant paint. Is there such a thing.......do they come in spray cans........and what brands are they?
I've seen several tank paint jobs destroyed by the first overflow of fuel at the pump.
I'm not going to pay a body shop $500.00 to paint a gas tank.
I appreciate input, advice, and (pictures if you have them) from all who have done their own paint jobs.
Thanks,
GS750GUY

There's an article posted about DIY bike painting here
http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_repaint.htm

I'm doing the same thing here this weekend if it's nice, but I'll be painting the two side panels as well. Just bought all the supplies.

I didn't see anything about fuel resistant paint, but the article was top notch.

 

[Jethro]

If you are doing a home paint job with rattle cans, I'd suggest using a flat paint, preferrably black. That way you can easily touch it up and no one would know the better.

To have a truely solvent resistant paint job, you need to use a catylized paint system, that is one that you mix hardener into just before spraying. I don't care how much the can says "fuel resistant," pre-mixed spray paint isn't made to harden. The way it dries is by the mosture evaporating from the paint, leaving color behind. That's how it says liquid in the can for years. A catylized paint uses a chemical reaction to actually harden the paint.

The other alternative I have heard is to have a shop clear coat your paint job after you spray it yourself. But there is a risk of the clear having a negative reaction with your spray paint.

If you try your luck with the spray cans, I'd say your best bet is to make sure the tank cures for at least 30 days before you risk spilling fuel on it. Even then, I think you will be disspointed based on your comments above.

My buddy did his ZRX with flat black and it actually looks ok. It's pretty tough looking. And it's great that if anything happens to it, you can just re-spray it right then and there.

 

[rustybronco]

At home in the garage paint job using black acrylic enamel with a catalyst/hardner and reducer 60-70 dollars? in materials.
tank, side covers, rear extention, swing arm, case savers.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d44/rustybronco/IMG_1281.jpg

 

[tkent02]

Duplicolor high heat engine paint is fairly fuel resistant.
They have a clear that shines up well.
Don't overflow it like an idiot and it will be fine with little droplets now and then.
Just be careful. it gets better after it cures a while.
Easy enough to polish it out if there's a problem, or respray the clear if it needs it one day..

 

[GS750GUY]

Fuel resistant paint

There's an article posted about DIY bike painting here
http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_repaint.htm

I'm doing the same thing here this weekend if it's nice, but I'll be painting the two side panels as well. Just bought all the supplies.

I didn't see anything about fuel resistant paint, but the article was top notch.

I'm going to do my side panels too. What kind of paint did you decide on? Or have you? Are you also going to clear coat?

GS750GUY

 

[bradleymaynar]

I think I need to spill more fuel on my tank to get rid of the god awful artwork! :lol:

Brad bt

 

[GS750GUY]

Fuel resistant paint

Nice looking paint job!! I did think about engine paint. It has to be fairly fuel resistant due to its application. I did see it and its companion clear coat in the parts store. Nice looking paint job on yours and inexpensive and easy to maintain.
Thanks for the photo!
GS750GUY

Duplicolor high heat engine paint is fairly fuel resistant.
They have a clear that shines up well.
Don't overflow it like an idiot and it will be fine with little droplets now and then.
Just be careful. it gets better after it cures a while.
Easy enough to polish it out if there's a problem, or respray the clear if it needs it one day..

 

[Jethro]

Duplicolor high heat engine paint is fairly fuel resistant.
They have a clear that shines up well.
Don't overflow it like an idiot and it will be fine with little droplets now and then.
Just be careful. it gets better after it cures a while.
Easy enough to polish it out if there's a problem, or respray the clear if it needs it one day..

Wow, that's an excellent home paint job! Looks great.

 

[rapidray]

There is paint that IS solvent resistant & you can get it at any R/C hobby store. Ask for the paints for R/C planes. It is made to resist NITRO & makes it VERY strong. The black is the BEST thing I've ever found to paint engines with. Ray.

 

[Nessism]

I've had excellent results using catalized PPG paints. DP Epoxy primer and Deltron system clears (several good ones available). Not cheap but top quality and if you do the work yourself, you will save mucho money compared to paying a body shop.

 

[Bobber55]

Go to an auto paint supply store. Tell them what you are doing and they will set you up with a color and two part urethane clearcoat system. A pint of each will be enough but quarts are not much more. Use a primer that is compatable. Compatability is a big issue, some paints eat others. They may have rattle can that is compatable with a two part clearcoat. They have glass bottle spray devices that you can use if you have access to an air compressor and an auto touch up gun. I've done 6 bikes, for one I didn't bother with the two part clearcoat. I got to do it over after running gas over it. It is not much harder than the rattle cans, does not take any more skill and is extremely durable. Spilling gas on it does not effect it. I think the stock paint included a two part clearcoat.

For a real professional looking job sand with 1500 grit wet sandpaper after the clearcoat and then use fine polishing compound. It give you a much deeper looking shine.

Bob Uehlein
1981 GS550T & 1975 CB550

 

[Bobber55]

There's an article posted about DIY bike painting here
http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_repaint.htm

This is a very god article but there is one thing I disagree with. Do not use rubbing compound on a clearcoat, use a polishing compound. A relatively fine one will work best but take a little more time.

Bob Uehlein

 

[rmarrs]

I'm going to do my side panels too. What kind of paint did you decide on? Or have you? Are you also going to clear coat?

GS750GUY

I'm fairly certain I'm going with Duplicolor. As I have got the bike all ripped apart, the tank is hanging from the tree in the back yard, airing out before I begin sanding. Yes, I'm going to clearcoat after doing a high-gloss black. I'll probably go to the model store and get some of those tiny bottles of paint and do some emblem touch up.

 

[quandryron]

I painted my bike last year with the cheap stuff at walmart. It's holding up well. Seems reasonably fuel resistant. I can't say for sure as I wipe up any spills asap when they happen. Plus, the finish really impressed people for the ten dollars I spent in paint and clear. The secrets in the prep work. The defects really pop out when it's dry.

 

[Guest]

I don't care how much the can says "fuel resistant," pre-mixed spray paint isn't made to harden. The way it dries is by the moisture evaporating from the paint, leaving color behind. That's how it says liquid in the can for years.

I'm no paint expert, but I have some knowledge of resins. Conventional hydrocarbon solvent paints dry in two stages. 1) As you said, the solvent (generally not moisture except in latex paints!) evaporates. 2) Critically, the binder in the paint then reacts with oxygen in the air and cross bonds, creating a chemically stable polymer.

At a microscopic level, solvent-based coatings leave pores that can let solvents (such as fuel) re-penetrate the coating. Catalyzed coatings don't need to depend on evaporation, and have a less porous structure.

MarkF

 

[skreemer]

here's some stuff that the guys on the SOHC Honda site use to paint thier tanks... Two part catalyst clear coat that's chem/fuel resistant... called spray max

http://www.toolweb.com/itemDetail.cfm?partno=KWA3680061

 

[spyug]

Spray bomb finishes are generally not impervious to gas and as already stated you need a catalized system as used in auto body paint facilities.

While 2 part systems are more expensive than spray cans, the finish is going to be superior and stand up better to gas spills and stone chips.

You can lessen the cost quite a bit by using spray bombs for your colour coat and topping off with a two part clear coat. As mentioned previously, you need to ensure that the two paints are compatible. Oddly enough, I have found the cheaper brands of rattle can enamels to work well with the PPG Urethane clearcoat I have started to use. You should experiment a bit. Find the paint you like...shoot onto some tin.....clearcoat and see what happens afte an hour or so.

Using the 2 part urethanes , you will need to use a compressor and paint gun but even the $50 electric 1/4 horse compressors will work. For best results, I would invest in an HVLP gun ( high volume low pressure). All you need is a touch up gun ( 4 to 6 ounce capacity). they run a bit more than standard guns but places like Harbour Freight or Princess Auto here in Canada often have them on for $20 or so.

Painting starts with the best finish on the piece being painted and all blemishes will show through. Take the time to make the piece smooth. Use a good quality undercoat/primer/surfacers. Sand with 600 wet/dry. apply colour coat (s) sanding between each coat. Sand again before applying clear coats and finish off as suggested with 1500 to 2000 wet dry. Buff out with polishing compund for the amazing shine.

With spray equipment there is a bit more fiddling ( i.e. setup of paint area, cleaning of equipment) but it is well worth it for the superior finish you will gain. Two points on safety.....always use a good quality spray mask rated for paint as these 2 part paints can make you really sick if inhaled....(they will clog up your lungs) and set up your paint area in a well ventilated area.

the first time you paint with these products it will seem like a lot of effort but the more you do it the easier and faster it gets. You never know, you might be good at it and start a second career or part time job at least.

Cheers and good luck,
Spyug.

 

[Bopi]

Ill repost this if you like:

You can use automotive paint with hardener and apply it with this. It works great.
Retails for $10 bucks.


http://www.prevalspraygun.com/howto.htm