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fuel stabilizer curiosity

dorkburger

dorkburger

Forum Guru
Past Site Supporter
Over the last few riding seasons, i've observed that my cycle runs better on the last and first ride of each riding season. I figured at first it was emotional: sadness of the last ride for a few months, and the joy of the first ride. It was actually due to the fuel stabilizer in the tank. I tested this theory last summer, adding some mid season. Sure enough the cycle ran smoother, and was more responsive. Why? Is todays fuel as awful as some claim, or could the stabilizer be helping cover some other deficiency on the bike? The cycle in question is a gs1150 with k&n pods, dynojet stage 3 jet kit , and a yoshimura 4 into i exhaust. The bike doesn't run poorly without the stabilizer, just slightly but noticeably better with it.
 
Today's fuel is poor -ethanol is nasty stuff,the sooner the FEDS stop subsidizing it the better as it will disappear. Lots of folks run a dose of stabilizer at all times, so feel free to experiment some more. I keep it in my generator at all times.
 
Also, be careful if you travel through the midwest. There is now E-15 out there at a few pumps in Iowa, Nebraska and Kansas. All major corn producers, of course. It's a few cents cheaper to lure you in, but the extra ethanol wreaks havoc on vehicles not set up for it. I understand that all 2012 and newer vehicles have fuel systems set up to handle higher-ethanol fuels, but the computers might not be programmed to handle it unless the vehicle is specifically "Flex-fuel compatible".

Interesting video: click HERE.

.
 
I first noticed this about 8 years ago and have become a proponent of adding Seafoam to each tank ( a couple of caps full) and a good dollop (1/3 to 1/2 a can) before winter layup.

It might just be wishful thinking on my part but they do seem to start and run better with it than without.

Spyug
 
If anyone is traveling in BC. Use Chevron 94. Its ethanol free and has a separate hose so no contamination from the previous fill up.
 
First let me state that I DO NOT advocate; nor have I tried or have any experience with, what I am about to post...

I have read on a few of the motorcycle forums I read and participate on/in that some have reported have good success adding TC3 to the fuel as an additive. TC3 is the 2 stroke oil typically used for power equipment as I understand it (think chain saw).

The reported results are - better idling, improved economy, added power, and cleaner plugs...? :-k

I have not experienced this..however I have exerienced something similar by adding MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil). Better MPG overall when running it...I also notice better economy sometimes when running Seafoam fuel mixtures too..But I live in an area that features the 10% corn fuel mix and I always do better when I get real old fashioned gas as I travel the countryside...

Just my 2 ?
twocents.gif
 
spyug said:
I first noticed this about 8 years ago and have become a proponent of adding Seafoam to each tank ( a couple of caps full) and a good dollop (1/3 to 1/2 a can) before winter layup.

It might just be wishful thinking on my part but they do seem to start and run better with it than without.

Spyug
Click to expand...

Not wishful thinking at all. I'm the last to suggest that there is a mystery fix in a can however, I never have drained the fuel bowls on anything I own (there is a theory in my madness ) and have always put up the toys and seasonal power tools with sea foam and Stabil and have never had a fuel related issue.

Plain truth is that the stuff works...
 
I run at least 1/2 ounce of Marine Stabil (blue/ethanol stabil) in every tank. Bikes always run good and I never have clogged or dysfunctional carbs. Only time it runs better then with treated fuel is when of cource I find ethanol free fuels...

Remember these machines were never designed to burn 10% Ethanol gasoline so of course they won't run 100% correctly with only 90% correct fuel...
 
Last edited:
Jedz123 said:
I run at least 1/2 ounce of Marine Stabil (blue/ethanol stabil) in every tank. Bikes always run good and I never have clogged or dysfunctional carbs. Only time it runs better then with treated fuel is when of cource I find ethanol free fuels...

Remember these machines were never designed to burn 10% Ethanol gasoline so of course they won't run 100% correctly with only 90% correct fuel...
Click to expand...

X2

- marine stabilizer
- marvel mystery oil
- lead supplement additive

Top end of that bike runs unbelievably smooth.
 
Lead substitute? Never thought about trying that. I had a manual that said you could run leaded or unleaded fuels... I'll have to give it a whirl.
 
Anything built for the US market after the early seventies is OK with unleaded fuel.

The lead went away in 1974 I think.

The alcohol is the problem.
 
Lead in fuel didn't really disappear until about 82 or so. We were still selling leaded fuel then. It then was gradually reduced to almost nothing after that.
 
I run the Ethanol Stabil every tank! Ill run a lead substitute in it just lube the head I guess, give it a try.
 
Lead was used to reduce valve wear, back in the days before hardened seats were available. Mostly everything after the early 70's should be fine on Unleaded.
It was also used to bump the octane up.

Your GS was equipped with hardened seats, so you don't need it. It's just my personal preference to run it sometimes.

If you're really concerned about preserving your fuel, try Startron, Marine Stabil, or Ethanol treatment. The ethanol is the Real problem today.
 
Additives?

Additives?

Engines are Engineer'd (by people smarter than us) to run on Gasoline, without additives.
If you have to add stuff to make it work better, you have issues somewhere.
I would think you should find the problem first, and add the Bandaide later, if the fix is too much hassle/$$$.
Air leaks, Fuel levels, Jetting, Ignition, Exhaust (http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=188211&page=38 1/2 way down),
Air Cleaner, Burning Oil, Choke Adj,,.. should be ruled out first.
But for those who like Chemistry Experiments, go nuts,,..
 
Wizard said:
Engines are Engineer'd (by people smarter than us) to run on Gasoline, without additives.
If you have to add stuff to make it work better, you have issues somewhere.
I would think you should find the problem first, and add the Bandaide later, if the fix is too much hassle/$$$.
Air leaks, Fuel levels, Jetting, Ignition, Exhaust (http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=188211&page=38 1/2 way down),
Air Cleaner, Burning Oil, Choke Adj,,.. should be ruled out first.
But for those who like Chemistry Experiments, go nuts,,..
Click to expand...

Wizard I agree 100% with your statement but when these bikes were produced there was no Ethanol in every pump across the country and leaded fuel was still around in some areas... Clearly these bikes were not engineered to run a 10% ethanol mix in every tank. Why you see so many clogging issues with bikes that sit too long with untreated fuel.

My Cage (2009 Toyota Yaris) was designed to run the 10% ethanol 87 octane. The car runs the best and gets the best fuel economy with that fuel in it... But that's because the engineering team at Toyota designed it to run the best with that common fuel.

I'm sure if we had ethanol in our gas in the late 70's to late 80's Suzuki would have engineered the carbs and motors a tad differently so we could run a bike on straight untreated fuel with 10% ethanol. Heck even my 98 B-12 didn't like the Ethanol gas. Bike was designed to run on the fuel of the time. Why you see so many Fuel Injected bikes on the market now, not just because of technology but they are prone to run better then carb'd bikes with the Ethanol infused Fuel...

Hence why we should use and why most see improvement in performance with Ethanol treatment additives.
 
We are still in an area where you can get non-ethanol gas...for this I am very happy. Our days are numbered though...
 
thankfully the closest station to my house is ethanol free. all of two blocks...
but I do like seafoam, and stabil is great if its parked for a bit.
 
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